Cayman sound system upgrade - Porsche 718 Forum
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post #1 of 31 Old 04-16-2019, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Cayman sound system upgrade

I'm ready to start the build on my Cayman!

My goals for this build is to keep an OEM look, but obviously improve the sound quality. I just want it to be subtle. Just like the color of the car:



I'll be repurposing some Hertz Mille ML1600 and ML280 for a 2-way active system. I want a subwoofer, but of course, limited in available diameter in the rear trunk. Most I can do is an 8". Based on the advice of my local shop, and their knowledge of my tastes, they suggested the JL Audio 8W7AE-3 (depth isn't nearly as much of a problem as height). I'll be doing a sealed fiberglass enclosure.

For signal, I'm using the NavTV Zen-V MOST-150 adapter, and will feed an optical signal to the amp/dsp. I know some people will choose to use high-level inputs and sum the channels, I think this is the better, simpler method.

I was planning to use the JL VX1000/5i to power it all, and actually ordered one. I know some other people have used them in their Porsche installs (991, etc), putting it under the passenger seat. I did a mock/dry fit, and I didn't feel comfortable with the amount of strain it would put on the pigtail cables.

As I was looking though, it's wider than I was expecting under there, and I believe I can fit two smaller amps, side by side. I'm instead going with the Audison AP F8.9 for the front stage, and the AP1 D monoblock for the sub. As a "bonus," I'll now have enough power and channels to go 3-way in the future if I wanted to I may even just try the mids that are in there now. If I don't like it, I can just mute those channels, and everything would be ready to go if I chose to buy some better midrange speakers at some point.

Ok, onto the build! First up, sound treatment.

P.S. I ripped apart a brand new Porsche within a week of ownership. All my friends think I'm nuts for some reason











This car has the "Sound Package Plus" system, which is the "base." It consists of a 3-way front stage, and 2 rear speakers (tweeter sized). The woofers and the mids are in the door, and the front tweeter is on the dash, actually under the air vent modules. Here, you can see the woofer and mid:



The tweeters were more difficult to get to. Those vents are firmly held in place! I have to give a huge shout out to Elevated Audio, who were kind enough to help me figure out how to remove them. There are two sliding latches, four spring clips on the side, and one rear clip, all holding it in place. And between the shape and the **** windshield being in the way, there's no good way to get much leverage. When the clips are released, it comes up and out at around a 30 degree angle. Once it's out, the tweeters are simply clipped into place (it's not fully clipped in in this picture):



And here's what the vent itself looks like for anyone else trying to figure out how to get it out:











Now I just need to figure out how I'm actually going to mount the new tweeters. I'll definitely need to cut away some of the plastic that originally surrounded the OEM tweeter. More problematic, there's no screw holes that I found, which I could use to make an adapter. I think I might have to resort to using double sided mounting tape, or a glue or something similar. I'm not in love with any of those ideas though, and am open to suggestions if anyone has any other ideas.

BTW, in the SPP, the mids and the tweets look to be on the same channel (same colored wires). Good news though, running new speaker wires to the tweets is super easy and straight forward.

I also went ahead and took out the seats, some trim pieces, the carpet, and the head unit (PCM 4.0)





I finished up the day soldering some 16/4 speaker wire to eventually send signal from the new amp to the speaker locations in the doors.

Next, I'll probably focus on figuring out the tweeter situation, then maybe run power. Might be able to start on speaker adapters as well.
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post #2 of 31 Old 04-17-2019, 02:47 AM
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Is this car a 2019?

The sound aktor looks, odd....
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For the fun of it.....
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post #3 of 31 Old 04-17-2019, 04:33 AM
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Pre 2019

For the fun of it.....
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post #4 of 31 Old 04-17-2019, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, it’s a 2019 GTS. I’ve pulled the fuse for the soundaktor already though

Last edited by phroenips; 04-17-2019 at 08:57 AM.
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post #5 of 31 Old 04-17-2019, 08:12 AM
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This is an awesome thread. Thank you so much for doing this and posting all the pics. Please post more if you have them. It is fascinating to see the structure of the car.

Question: can you tell a difference in road noise with all the sound deadening?

Again, thank you for doing this. Iím studying your pictures and would love even more. Anyone else who has taken theirs apart please post high res pics like this.
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post #6 of 31 Old 04-17-2019, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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I think this is most of the pictures so far, but there are a few more that are in the Flickr album here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmAc1F8n

The sound deadening I used honestly didn't make a huge difference in road noise. It is slightly better, but not drastically so. I've also pulled the fuse on the soundaktor (on day 2 of ownership lol), which I feel helped as well.

The product I used (Soundskins Pro) isn't really designed to block road noise though. It's designed to dampen the sheet metal, and it also has a layer of foam which allegedly helps with acoustics and reducing reflections. I was actually quite surprised to find so much thick foam on the underside of many of the OEM pieces I pulled out. I have no doubt that the intention for doing that is to reduce road noise.

For a full and "proper" road noise reduction, I "should" have started with CLD (Constrained Layer Dampening. Think Dynamat or similar. Soundskins Pro is a CLD product, with an extra foam layer on top). Then, you should do a full layer of 1/8" closed-cell foam to decouple the next layer from the car. Finally, a layer of mass loaded vinyl (MLV) (at a density of 1 lb/sq-ft). And you need full coverage of that. Road noise and other sounds will find their way through gaps, just like water would flow through the path of least resistance. P.S. working with MLV is extremely challenging because it's so thick and heavy, and doesn't really conform to complex shapes very well. And with the tight tolerances of a new and modern vehicle, good luck getting it to fit under all the trim pieces!

For those reasons is why I decided to just do Soundskins Pro and hope for the best.
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post #7 of 31 Old 04-17-2019, 10:21 AM
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This thread is the BEES KNEES. The pics verify:

- That the speakers in the doors are exactly like a 981 -- a 7" (up to an 8" will fit) woofer and a 3.75" (read: 4") midrange -- and do NOT include the tweeter (there's been some misinformation about this in other threads)
- How to remove the dash vents to get at the tweeters -- again, in the same placement as the 981
- The 2019 Soundaktor appears to be an all-in-one unit (i.e., the control module and noise generator are all one assembly), meaning the fuse-pull method is now the only truly easy way to disconnect it
- That the space under the passenger seat -- vacated by the 981's outboard amp, by the way, in the case of the base stereo -- is large enough for substantial hardware (amps, DSP). A request, @phroenips : Can you add a pic of that area when you install the amps, and provide rough measurements of the space so others might be able to select hardware based on dimensions (I might run a JL Audio 600/6 I already have there; still debating that)?

Two questions:
- What is that large rectangular control box above the woofer in the doors? I've heard rumors that there's a junction box there to control everything in the doors; looks like that's the unit. Do the speakers plug into that?
- What are you doing for rear fill speakers? Are you eliminating them entirely?

Bra-VO!
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Last edited by Viffermike; 04-17-2019 at 10:23 AM.
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post #8 of 31 Old 04-17-2019, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viffermike View Post
This thread is the BEES KNEES. The pics verify:

- That the speakers in the doors are exactly like a 981 -- a 7" (up to an 8" will fit) woofer and a 3.75" (read: 4") midrange -- and do NOT include the tweeter (there's been some misinformation about this in other threads)
- How to remove the dash vents to get at the tweeters -- again, in the same placement as the 981
- The 2019 Soundaktor appears to be an all-in-one unit (i.e., the control module and noise generator are all one assembly), meaning the fuse-pull method is now the only truly easy way to disconnect it
- That the space under the passenger seat -- vacated by the 981's outboard amp, by the way, in the case of the base stereo -- is large enough for substantial hardware (amps, DSP). A request, @phroenips: Can you add a pic of that area when you install the amps, and provide rough measurements of the space so others might be able to select hardware based on dimensions (I might run a JL Audio 600/6 I already have there; still debating that)?

Two questions:
- What is that large rectangular control box above the woofer in the doors? I've heard rumors that there's a junction box there to control everything in the doors; looks like that's the unit. Do the speakers plug into that?
- What are you doing for rear fill speakers? Are you eliminating them entirely?

Bra-VO!

I dont want to hijack the thread (Sry), could be but that long tube indicates something more like speaker then a tactile tranducer.

For the fun of it.....
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post #9 of 31 Old 04-17-2019, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viffermike View Post
This thread is the BEES KNEES. The pics verify:

- That the speakers in the doors are exactly like a 981 -- a 7" (up to an 8" will fit) woofer and a 3.75" (read: 4") midrange -- and do NOT include the tweeter (there's been some misinformation about this in other threads)
- How to remove the dash vents to get at the tweeters -- again, in the same placement as the 981
- The 2019 Soundaktor appears to be an all-in-one unit (i.e., the control module and noise generator are all one assembly), meaning the fuse-pull method is now the only truly easy way to disconnect it
- That the space under the passenger seat -- vacated by the 981's outboard amp, by the way, in the case of the base stereo -- is large enough for substantial hardware (amps, DSP). A request, @phroenips : Can you add a pic of that area when you install the amps, and provide rough measurements of the space so others might be able to select hardware based on dimensions (I might run a JL Audio 600/6 I already have there; still debating that)?

Two questions:
- What is that large rectangular control box above the woofer in the doors? I've heard rumors that there's a junction box there to control everything in the doors; looks like that's the unit. Do the speakers plug into that?
- What are you doing for rear fill speakers? Are you eliminating them entirely?

Bra-VO!
Thanks!

I will definitely be adding more pictures of the install, and can provide some better measurements/dimensions when I get back out there. I only have one of the amps right now, the other one should be here today or tomorrow.

The control box is for the locks and windows. There's a plug that the door panel plugs into. This video was very helpful in learning how to take the door panel off (it's a 981, but my 718 was identical)


While I'm at it, this is a "two part" pair of videos that showed how to remove the PCM:



And to answer your last question, I'm not doing any rear fill. I'm leaving them fully connected, but they won't be playing anything. Once I reprogram the PCM to use the MOST port (which is physically there, btw, just nothing currently plugged into it. Don't worry, there will be pictures of that too when I get to that part), there won't be any signal going out of the speaker wires out of the PCM anyway. But even if there were (i.e. if I were doing high level inputs instead), I'd simply user the fader controls to move it fully forward.
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post #10 of 31 Old 04-18-2019, 12:02 PM
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nice job so far. not sure if you bought the jl sub or not yet but a very, very good alternative would be the SI BM. it's a slim 12" that is quite amazing, and way cheaper too. i am currently running a alto mobile falsatff 12" but will be swapping in the SI to see how i personally like it.



https://stereointegrity.com/product/...-12-subwoofer/






Quote:
Originally Posted by Viffermike View Post
- That the speakers in the doors are exactly like a 981 -- a 7" (up to an 8" will fit) woofer and a 3.75" (read: 4") midrange -- and do NOT include the tweeter (there's been some misinformation about this in other threads)

there was nothing installed in my dash in my '17 cayman s with the base system. my tweet and mid were mounted in the door only. may be a model year change.
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