I changed pads on these rotors and turned them once during 15 track days. The rotors were shot after 15 tracked days. 6 days on stock pads and 9 days on Pagid Yellows. The stock pads really aren't too bad for the cost. I didn't have any fade with them during 15 to 25 minute runs. I know another fellow running stock pads on his 718 and he is a bit faster than I am and he does very well with them also.13 days at the track is impressive for stock brakes. I use Pelican Parts for my brake pads/rotors (on my 987). While they have a good selection of slotted rotors for various cars I don't think they have 718 parts just yet - but I would check every so often to see as I'm sure they will be added soon.
Just got a call back from R1 Concepts. They say they can't do slotted rotors on my 2017 Cayman S because it is not the original configuration. They will do the cross drilled only as original config. I'm still going with them as the price is considerably less and if they last 15 track days as the original I'll be happy. Stay tuned!
This season I got 11 track days with plenty of pad to spare on my 1st set of Ferrodo brake pads. They stop just as good as Pagids, last longer and are much more rotor friendly. Got them at Apex Performance. Ask for the Ferrodo brake pad discount.
If you don't like squeaking you won't like the Ferodo pads on the street. Just imagine your driving a Skool Bus and it will be fine.Can you daily drive those pads? Or do they squeak when not up to track temps?
Clark at Apex Performance handles Girodisc give him a call.
Mine did not squeal at all after I bedded them. Very important to bed track brake pads if they require it, these do. They do make a mild grinding sound, but not a loud squeal like some other track pads do. I was able to have the rotors turned with about an average removal of 1.5 mm.If you don't like squeaking you won't like the Ferodo pads on the street. Just imagine your driving a Skool Bus and it will be fine.
Another shout out for Clark at Apex Performance. Great service and good prices.
Peter
So how did the rotors hold up after all? I've eaten through my stock ones with PFC pads and I'm trying to decide if these are a viable option or if I should just get another set of stock rotors or perhaps splurge on the Girodiscs.Another point, the R1 Concepts rotors worked pretty good with the Ferodo pads. I was able to have them turned within spec. We'll see how they do with the 2nd set of Ferodo's on them.
I'm in the same boat as you and currently on my 3rd set of front rotors (2nd set for rear). I'm using the Pagid yellows with mine. So far it's always the cross drilled that causes cracks and forces me to swap out the rotors instead of thickness.So how did the rotors hold up after all? I've eaten through my stock ones with PFC pads and I'm trying to decide if these are a viable option or if I should just get another set of stock rotors or perhaps splurge on the Girodiscs.
I don't have any empirical evidence from 718s to support this but in general with our racing programs we see significant longevity improvements with larger diameter rotors and cooling ducts. If all you care about is the cheapest solution then perhaps it's a wash but we are after longer service life with reduced maintenance intervals. Less brake bleeding, fewer pad and rotor changes lets us focus on track time.I'm in the same boat as you and currently on my 3rd set of front rotors (2nd set for rear). I'm using the Pagid yellows with mine. So far it's always the cross drilled that causes cracks and forces me to swap out the rotors instead of thickness.
I did a rough calculation and it doesn't seem like girodisc is worth it. It's nearly 3x-4x the upfront cost and even the replacement rings are ~2x OEM spec rotors. Unless I'm missing something, it seems like going OEM spec always ends up cheaper. I haven't heard of people saying they 2-3x as long to justify their cost.
I'm sure they do keep the temps under control more and are "better" brakes with improved cooling and slightly less weight etc. Plus 2 piece always looks cool. I wish there was a cheaper 2 piece alternative - I'd be all over that! It's just a giant chunk of metal. The profit margin on expensive rotors must be insane.
You are right about that. Didn't factor the time/cost involved. I'm just doing HPDE and getting track inspections every few weeks anyways, so I'm usually at my shop regardless. The labour cost does add up having to do more brake service/maintenance.I don't have any empirical evidence from 718s to support this but in general with our racing programs we see significant longevity improvements with larger diameter rotors and cooling ducts. If all you care about is the cheapest solution then perhaps it's a wash but we are after longer service life with reduced maintenance intervals. Less brake bleeding, fewer pad and rotor changes lets us focus on track time.
