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Discussion Starter #1
All New Pricing on all APR ECU/TCU Upgrades!



You asked for it and we listened. APR ECU & TCU Upgrades are now even more affordable. Our Stage 1 ECU Upgrades are now an average of 35% less and our TCU upgrades are an average of 30% less. Savings are as high as 77% on some platforms! Every price for every stage and option has changed across the globe, and these savings are locked in for the foreseeable future!

Get the details: All New APR Software Pricing!
Get the details: All New APR Software Pricing!
Get the details: All New APR Software Pricing!

Key retail pricing in the USA is as follows:

Transmission Software:
  • $499.95 - DQ250, DQ381, DQ500, DL501 (All Platforms)
Turbocharged Engine Software:
  • $299.95 - 1.0/1.2/1.4T EA111/211
  • $399.95 - 1.8/2.0T EA113/888 Gen 1/2
  • $499.95 - 1.8/2.0T EA888 Gen 3/3B
  • $599.95 - 2.5T EA855
  • $699.95 - 2.5T EA855 EVO
  • $499.95 - 2.7T EA835
  • $899.95 - 2.9T EA839 B9/C8
  • $599.95 - 3.0T EA837 Supercharged
  • $899.95 - 3.0T EA839 B9
  • $599.95 - 4.2T EA824
  • $799.95 - 4.0/5.0T EA824
Naturally Aspirated Engine Software:
  • $299.95 - 2.5L EA855 I5
  • $299.95 - 2.8/3.2/3.6L EA390 VR6
  • $299.95 - 4.2L EA824 V8
  • $499.95 - 4.2L EA824 FSI V8
  • $599.95 - 5.2L EA824 FSI V10 (Non R8)
  • $999.95 - 5.2L EA824 FSI V10 (R8/Lambo)
Diesel Software:
  • $299.95 - 1.4/1.6/1.9 TDI
  • $399.95 - 2.0/2.5/2.7 TDI
  • $499.95 - 3.0/4.2/4.9/5.0 TDI
Porsche Naturally Aspirated Software:
  • $299.95 - 3.2/3.6L VR6 9PA/92A/970
  • $499.95 - 3.4/3.6/3.8L 987/996/997
Porsche Turbo Software:
  • $499.95 - 2.0T 95B
  • $999.95 - 2.0/2.5T 982
  • $499.95 - 3.0 TDI 92A
  • $1,499.95 - 3.0T 991.2
  • $999.95 - 3.6T 996/997
  • $1,999.95 - 3.8T 991.2
  • $999.95 - 4.5T 9PA
Options, Features, and Transfers, where available:
  • $99.95 - Program Switching
  • $49.95 - 6MT Launch/No-Lift Shift
  • $99.95 - Warranty Transfer
These great savings and new prices also extend to our other stages and options. This even includes APR Plus! We’ve also made a few changes to select upgrade paths, too. 3.0T Ultracharger software can now be purchased separately for use with a secondhand unit. On platforms where we offer support for more than one upgraded turbocharger, you only need to pay for Stage 3 turbo software once, and can switch turbos at any time. Program switching is now a new low price on every platform where it’s available.

For details on your exact engine, select your vehicle’s year, make, and model to find pricing. If you’re outside the USA, contact an APR Importer for pricing in your local currency.

If you have any questions, an APR Expert is here to help! Call, email, or message us on social media.

Thank you and Go APR!

[video=youtube;5e3tYzqBVUg]

All New APR Software Pricing!
All New APR Software Pricing!
All New APR Software Pricing!
 

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Dear Arin, its nice to see you made some discounts.
However, I think you should care about your exisitng customers as well. Since no one from your support replied to me for almost 2 months I will try to ask here.
(The tuner doesnt answer my phone calls either btw. I expected better communication when I decided to pay 1700 USD without VAT for your tune... )

1. measurement - 200cell IPE downpipe, stock map, stock air filter
2. measurement - 200cell IPE downpipe, APR tune, stock air filter
Here are the results:
APR ECU tune with downpipe 1.png


Performance up to 2400 rpm has been decreased in comparison to stock map. I can feel the turbo lag is much bigger than before the tune.
Is this normal? When i looked at APR graphs online prior to getting the tune, there was no such decrease displayed. The performance in APR graphs is higher from the start. Do you know where the issue might be?

I am also currently considering to manufacture a fully custom made intake for this car from a professional technician i work with (currently I have only BMC filters fitted). We would also improve the engine compartment when it comes to cooling/heat insulation... As we think those are the cars limiting factors currently, especially in higher temperatures. I can see that the safety feature of your tune kicks in in higher temperatures, and the boost pressure falls from 1.5 bar to 1.1 bar.
We plan to modify the exhaust to make more free flowing as well.
Do you think the stock map is able to cope with such modifications, or further tweaking will be required? If yes, would something like that be possible from APR?

Thanks,
Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Sam! Those results look great. With regards to spool up, we have not made any changes that would make the spool delay. It should be identical, if not better. However, this is sometimes difficult to capture on the dyno. Weather and ambient conditions will alter spool. The same is true for other things such as loading on the dyno, strapping, wheels, tires, heat-soak (or running too cold), etc. It all comes into play during that initial ramp up. For that reason, I don't put too much faith in dyno figures for spool - It's difficult to illustrate without many more controls in place.

Anything you can do to improve cooling on this platform is a positive. I'd highly recommend upgrades that make a measurable impact. As you've seen, our tune will protect the engine when it's hot, which means decreased performance. We do our best to strike a balance so power doesn't simply die - it reduces and comes back when IAT's settle. On the dyno, airflow is low, which amplifies issues. On the track and road, proper airflow makes real world results better.

On the exhaust front we measured no gains with tuning. We went as far as running a straight pipe off the turbo. There was nothing to be had, and this was backed up by our pre and post catalyst pressure transducers measuring very little mbar drop across the catalyst. You can run whatever exhaust you want. I don't think that will be an issue. As far as an intake goes, while I have not tested on myself, I don't think any adjustments are necessary.

-Arin
 

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That dyno curve above looks like the dyno operator did not get on it fully at the beginning of the run. I think to dyno these you have to ease on the throttle to avoid issues with the ESC which cannot be fully disabled. I have had mine on the dyno and that was the case with mine. I would be surprised if the APR tune would lose power/torque over stock at low RPM.
 

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As you've seen, our tune will protect the engine when it's hot, which means decreased performance. We do our best to strike a balance so power doesn't simply die - it reduces and comes back when IAT's settle. On the dyno, airflow is low, which amplifies issues. On the track and road, proper airflow makes real world results better.
-Arin
Thank you for your reply.
When I was on track on a hot day, it went as low as 1.1 bar, whereas stock GTS runs 1.3 bar.
That means that during the "decreased performance" time, I am running lower hp than stock, is that correct?

That dyno curve above looks like the dyno operator did not get on it fully at the beginning of the run. I think to dyno these you have to ease on the throttle to avoid issues with the ESC which cannot be fully disabled. I have had mine on the dyno and that was the case with mine. I would be surprised if the APR tune would lose power/torque over stock at low RPM.
Thats possible, but I am not sure thats the case, since:
a) I have dynoed the car in normal mode after the tune (attached). The decrease is shown on that graph as well.
b) I feel it.

APR tune normal mode.png
 

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I notice you have not yet posted the first dyno they did of your car (included are 2,3,4). Are there any other dyno curves that were done that may display the same low RPM characteristic? I presume the dynos were done by the same company that installed the tune since you have before and after? Is that the case or was the car removed from the dyno inbetween?

I actually have an IPE downpipe waiting to go on my car (waiting until after next service). It looks very good quality. It seems you had it fitted before tuning. Interested in your comments on the difference it made by itself before tuning? Also, what model is this... base, S or GTS? My tune plans were downpipe+APR like yourself. Just having some difficulty with the tune as my ECU type seems to be rare.
 

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I am not sure what the first dyno run was. I think it was just a test run.
The tune was installed right at the dyno.

I have a GTS. The downpipe is definitely a good mod to have. I was quite surprised what kind of results it made to the car characteristic.
No one complains about the sound of the car now. Pops are more noticeable, growl is better.
The tune escalates the sound even further.
When I am with other sport car owners on a trip or a meet, everyone says this is the best sounding Porsche there. Which is kind of funny...
There have been new turbo S there and 911 GTS Targa. Just to compare.
We compared it to stock R8 V10 prefacelift. And the GTS now sounds louder.
Better sound than GTR with Armytrix cat back - the owner said it by himself.

The IPE downpipe isnt bad, but I am not a man that just praises everything he buys, so here are the cons as well:
The internal welds/connections of tubes could have been connected more smoothly. (Hard to explain for me, but I hope you understand) Thats what my technician said.
And after 2 months of driving, about half of the heat isolation tape disintegrated, so I had to remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for your reply.
When I was on track on a hot day, it went as low as 1.1 bar, whereas stock GTS runs 1.3 bar.
That means that during the "decreased performance" time, I am running lower hp than stock, is that correct?
We've extensively tracked our own vehicle and have not seen excessive power drops, even in our alabama summer. If things do get too hot, it will limit power. The factory tune will also limit power too, but it does it in a more dramatic way if memory serves me correctly.

If there's anything you would like us to look into, our support team will be glad to help: [email protected]
 

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Porsche prices do not appear to be different but I did tell my brother that Audi prices dropped since he is taking his S3 in for his tune soon.
 

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There's an owner in another thread who is having an issue with getting a tune because of the box code on his ECU. Is there any way to check this at home before going to the shop to determine ahead of time whether it will be an issue or not?
 

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There's an owner in another thread who is having an issue with getting a tune because of the box code on his ECU. Is there any way to check this at home before going to the shop to determine ahead of time whether it will be an issue or not?
I believe you can check you box code with a few different OBD devices. I think the best bet is the VCDS software with the VAG-COM cable. Do you know anyone with a VW/Audi who has that cable? I think it is pretty simple to plug in and read the box code. I am sure Arin could then say if it was supported.
 

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The IPE downpipe isnt bad, but I am not a man that just praises everything he buys, so here are the cons as well:
The internal welds/connections of tubes could have been connected more smoothly. (Hard to explain for me, but I hope you understand) Thats what my technician said.
And after 2 months of driving, about half of the heat isolation tape disintegrated, so I had to remove it.
That is great about the sound with the IPE. I am looking forward to that. Did you notice any changes to responsiveness or power?

I have my downpipe sitting in a room of my house at the moment unused. I was impressed with the quality. Welding looks good, and the T join looks nicely shaped compared to some other products I have seen. The heat wrap was a surprising addition, but I am dissappointed to hear it did not last long for you.
 

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I think there was a slight improvement in power as well.
The real improvement in terms of power will come with the tune. However, there might be bigger turbo lag.

I measured the acceleration times after the tune and downpipe if anyone is interested:
With p zeros 235/35 r20 in front and 265/35 r20 in the rear, the times with launch control were:
0-100 kmh in 3.76s
100-200 kmh in 7.83s

With cup 2 245/35 r20 in front and 295/30 r20 in the rear, the times with launch control were:
0-100 in 4.23s
100-200 in 8.1s

I was quite surprised how big impact did the bigger/better tyres have on acceleration.
Measured with dragy.
 

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Are those acceleration times the right way around (larger cup2s slower)? Surprised the tyres would make a difference to 100-200 (which is very impressive BTW!)
 

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I think there was a slight improvement in power as well.
The real improvement in terms of power will come with the tune. However, there might be bigger turbo lag.

I measured the acceleration times after the tune and downpipe if anyone is interested:
With p zeros 235/35 r20 in front and 265/35 r20 in the rear, the times with launch control were:
0-100 kmh in 3.76s
100-200 kmh in 7.83s

With cup 2 245/35 r20 in front and 295/30 r20 in the rear, the times with launch control were:
0-100 in 4.23s
100-200 in 8.1s

I was quite surprised how big impact did the bigger/better tyres have on acceleration.
Measured with dragy.
Bigger tyre means heavier tyre. Drop to an 18 inch wheel tyre combo and you'll probably see a gain.

EDIT: I'm getting the same 0-60 (0-100 everywhere else in the world) on the stock Turbo Design Wheels with Pirelli's
 

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Are those acceleration times the right way around (larger cup2s slower)? Surprised the tyres would make a difference to 100-200 (which is very impressive BTW!)
That is correct. As HooosierDaddy mentioned, its probably because of weight and higher resistance due to larger width.

Bigger tyre means heavier tyre. Drop to an 18 inch wheel tyre combo and you'll probably see a gain.

EDIT: I'm getting the same 0-60 (0-100 everywhere else in the world) on the stock Turbo Design Wheels with Pirelli's
I will think about that, as I want to track the car more often. Tyre choice/price will definitely be better as well. How much might a decent pair of 18/19 inch wheels cost for a 718? Do you have experience with any?

I checked the app and my 0-60mph on stock pirellis is 3.58. 100 kmh is exactly 62.13 mph so there is a slight difference.
 

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I thought the wider cup 2s would launch better as grip is primary factor in 0-100. Did you "warm" up the cup 2s? I think they need a little heat to work best. I presume the slower 0-100 was traction limitted rather than heavy tyres. 100-200 should have no traction issues.
 

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I believe you can check you box code with a few different OBD devices. I think the best bet is the VCDS software with the VAG-COM cable. Do you know anyone with a VW/Audi who has that cable? I think it is pretty simple to plug in and read the box code. I am sure Arin could then say if it was supported.
Thank you. Based on the above, I Googled and found a FAQ on APR's website. Looks like I need to have access to VCDS so I might as well just go the tuner which isn't that far away.
 
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