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Wait - it doesn't fit behind the PCM? It sure looks like it should be mountable on top of the PCM behind the screen - especially if you didn't order the nav module.
It is doubtful in a 718, or at least my 718, the width is minimal at best and not only would the LVDS cable to the screen be in the way, as you can see by the connection s on the right side heading down it would make for a tight fit, add to this if you want to make any connection changes or additions then it all has to come out again!

I am working with KAP right now to get some way to display a front parking camera, via one of the installed apps like DVD or even DVBT, I can see the camera in the set-up menu, even an image from it but no way to put it on the screen! There are apps installed for Front (camera), DVD and DVBT but they are not on the app screen.

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I took a closer look to prepare this project. How/where would you wire the 3-pin rocker switch toggle in such a setup - I am pasting the ROIK wiring diagram below. A 2-pin simple switch would be trivial, but I can't figure out how to connect the 3-pin switch with LED. Can you share a wiring diagram for what you have in mind?

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I took a closer look to prepare this project. How/where would you wire the 3-pin rocker switch toggle in such a setup - I am pasting the ROIK wiring diagram below. A 2-pin simple switch would be trivial, but I can't figure out how to connect the 3-pin switch with LED. Can you share a wiring diagram for what you have in mind?
So what do you want to do, avoid going to the fuse panel altogether? Looking at that diagram I would think they are switching/controlling power to the ROiK by the ACC 12V, with power being always applied through the yellow/black pair.

I still used power supplied from the passenger side fuse panel, B9 (Instrument cluster) as this provides power as soon as the door opens and stays on for a brief period of time after the key is removed, but shuts down after that (when the cluster goes off), I use this 12V tap to power both the ROiK-MIB2 and the front camera, both independently controlled by the switch panel I put in the console, master power switches for both, normally I leave the ROiK-MIB2 on and have the front camera off, only turning it on if I am going to park nose in. TBH the camera draws so little power it could be on all of the time, I believe this is the case for OEM cameras.

I have not had any messages like yours to date as it all shuts down after the key is pulled.

If you still want a master power switch I can draw it out for you.

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So what do you want to do, avoid going to the fuse panel altogether? Looking at that diagram I would think they are switching/controlling power to the ROiK by the ACC 12V, with power being always applied through the yellow/black pair.

I still used power supplied from the passenger side fuse panel, B9 (Instrument cluster) as this provides power as soon as the door opens and stays on for a brief period of time after the key is removed, but shuts down after that (when the cluster goes off), I use this 12V tap to power both the ROiK-MIB2 and the front camera, both independently controlled by the switch panel I put in the console, master power switches for both, normally I leave the ROiK-MIB2 on and have the front camera off, only turning it on if I am going to park nose in. TBH the camera draws so little power it could be on all of the time, I believe this is the case for OEM cameras.

I have not had any messages like yours to date as it all shuts down after the key is pulled.

If you still want a master power switch I can draw it out for you.
What I am trying to achieve is that the Roik stays on when I turn off the ignition, but does not stay on FOREVER until the battery runs out or the automated battery protection system kicks in. I would like the Roik to behave just like the PCM, i.e. stay on when the key is in the ignition (but the engine is not running), and turn off when I open the door to exit the car.

In my current setup (see attached), the power comes to the Roik (yellow wire) from B3, (which I also tap into for the 4G Highend Video Unit). The ACC 12V (red wire) comes from D10, which is the passenger footwell electric socket. That slot does not seem to be timed and this is what is draining the battery. I am trying to insert a switch somewhere so I can turn off the Roik manually and avoid draining the battery. Now, if anybody new another ACC 12V slot that is actually timed, that could also work out without having to add a switch. Maybe that's what you are achieving by using B9 (instrument cluster). Maybe I should try B9 instead of D10. Is it what you meant?

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What I am trying to achieve is that the Roik stays on when I turn off the ignition, but does not stay on FOREVER until the battery runs out or the automated battery protection system kicks in. I would like the Roik to behave just like the PCM, i.e. stay on when the key is in the ignition (but the engine is not running), and turn off when I open the door to exit the car.

In my current setup (see attached), the power comes to the Roik (yellow wire) from B3, (which I also tap into for the 4G Highend Video Unit). The ACC 12V (red wire) comes from D10, which is the passenger footwell electric socket. That slot does not seem to be timed and this is what is draining the battery. I am trying to insert a switch somewhere so I can turn off the Roik manually and avoid draining the battery. Now, if anybody new another ACC 12V slot that is actually timed, that could also work out without having to add a switch. Maybe that's what you are achieving by using B9 (instrument cluster). Maybe I should try B9 instead of D10. Is it what you meant?
Ahhh, OK, Yes try B9 as it turns on when you open the door or put the key in the ignition and turns off after you pull the key out. The 12V ACC outlet in the console and the passenger footwell will stay on if they sense a draw, that is why the CTEK charger can be used in those 2 locations (I have used them for this purpose for years).

Using B9 for my setup works very well, as soon as I open the door it starts to power up, by the time I am seated and ready to use it, it is ready. When I exit the car and pull out the key it shuts down as B9 is controlled by the system and only stays alive for awhile. Likewise if you put the key in the ignition without turning on the engine B9 will only stay on for a preset amount of time ( the message we all see about limited time use with the engine off).

Does this sound like what you are looking for? Let me know.

I generally install master switches for equipment like this so I can force them off or prevent them from coming on when the car goes into service.

Cheers!
 

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Ahhh, OK, Yes try B9 as it turns on when you open the door or put the key in the ignition and turns off after you pull the key out. The 12V ACC outlet in the console and the passenger footwell will stay on if they sense a draw, that is why the CTEK charger can be used in those 2 locations (I have used them for this purpose for years).

Using B9 for my setup works very well, as soon as I open the door it starts to power up, by the time I am seated and ready to use it, it is ready. When I exit the car and pull out the key it shuts down as B9 is controlled by the system and only stays alive for awhile. Likewise if you put the key in the ignition without turning on the engine B9 will only stay on for a preset amount of time ( the message we all see about limited time use with the engine off).

Does this sound like what you are looking for? Let me know.

I generally install master switches for equipment like this so I can force them off or prevent them from coming on when the car goes into service.

Cheers!
Yes it does sound like exactly what I want to achieve. Still no luck however. Now with the battery wire (yellow) in B3 and the 12V ACC wire (red wire) in B9, the Roik continues to stay on all the time, even when the engine is switched off, I exit and lock the vehicle. I would have expected it to shut down at the same time as the instrument cluster, which is what I am trying to get to. Sounds like I am running out of options here unfortunately.
 

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Yes it does sound like exactly what I want to achieve. Still no luck however. Now with the battery wire (yellow) in B3 and the 12V ACC wire (red wire) in B9, the Roik continues to stay on all the time, even when the engine is switched off, I exit and lock the vehicle. I would have expected it to shut down at the same time as the instrument cluster, which is what I am trying to get to. Sounds like I am running out of options here unfortunately.
So the B3 connection is on all the time? I would have thought that as this is for the PCM and it turns of it would too. Why does the ROiK need constant 12V? If it doesn't then connect the yellow lead to B9 as well.

The other option as I mentioned before is to have manual switching for power like this and is why I have two switches in the center console. This could be automated with relays and the appropriate switched 12V source.
 

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So @Laurent any progress?

I just ordered a couple us USB sticks for my ROiK so I can load them up with music, the Music Player App is very easy to sues and provides an easy interface to use on the road.
 

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So @Laurent any progress?

I just ordered a couple us USB sticks for my ROiK so I can load them up with music, the Music Player App is very easy to sues and provides an easy interface to use on the road.
Mission accomplished here. The switch location is probably not the permanent one, but it works well.

Sadly in the process, I did a factory reboot of my ROIK 10 and I will need to install all my app :( It also took me a couple of hours to figure out why touch was not working after the factory reset. Then I remembered that you have to plug in a USB mouse in USB1 to go into the settings to change the interface manufacturer to GU. By default, it's set to Microcity which is incorrect.

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Mission accomplished here. The switch location is probably not the permanent one, but it works well.

Sadly in the process, I did a factory reboot of my ROIK 10 and I will need to install all my app :( It also took me a couple of hours to figure out why touch was not working after the factory reset. Then I remembered that you have to plug in a USB mouse in USB1 to go into the settings to change the interface manufacturer to GU. By default, it's set to Microcity which is incorrect.

View attachment 30227 View attachment 30228
Yep, sometimes I feel the easiest solution can be a physical switch, simple ànd fool proof way to control power in a situation like this.

So, quick question, do you have any audio coming from the ROiK to the PCM, and if so how, Aux, BT or ?

I am currently using BT but investigating adding back an AUX connection.
 

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Yep, sometimes I feel the easiest solution can be a physical switch, simple ànd fool proof way to control power in a situation like this.

So, quick question, do you have any audio coming from the ROiK to the PCM, and if so how, Aux, BT or ?

I am currently using BT but investigating adding back an AUX connection.
I do not have any audio going directly from the ROIK to the PCM. The ROIK harness is connected to the 4G HIGHEND unit that I installed behind the PCM. Then from the PCM, I am using an RCA -> 3.5mm adapter to connect to the input in the glove box. I was able to tuck this cable into the side center console trim. In fact, this is really well explained in KAP Android Auto / Car Play Retrofit Guide.

On a semi-separate topic and assuming you are the OP for another conversation (KAP ROiK-MIB2 for Full Android on PCM 4 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums) , any luck getting in touch with KAP lately? They were awesome working with me last August when I ordered my kit and asked a bunch of questions. They have gone dark now. I am trying to get in touch with them about an intermittent issue with the ROIK. It shuts down after reboot and this is annoying. I snapped a few videos yesterday and even ended up factory resetting to unit to figure out if it was a software issue. No luck. Not even sure there is a warranty period for stuff bought at KAP.

 

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I do not have any audio going directly from the ROIK to the PCM. The ROIK harness is connected to the 4G HIGHEND unit that I installed behind the PCM. Then from the PCM, I am using an RCA -> 3.5mm adapter to connect to the input in the glove box. I was able to tuck this cable into the side center console trim. In fact, this is really well explained in KAP Android Auto / Car Play Retrofit Guide.

On a semi-separate topic and assuming you are the OP for another conversation (KAP ROiK-MIB2 for Full Android on PCM 4 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums) , any luck getting in touch with KAP lately? They were awesome working with me last August when I ordered my kit and asked a bunch of questions. They have gone dark now. I am trying to get in touch with them about an intermittent issue with the ROIK. It shuts down after reboot and this is annoying. I snapped a few videos yesterday and even ended up factory resetting to unit to figure out if it was a software issue. No luck. Not even sure there is a warranty period for stuff bought at KAP.
Thanks for the link to the retro-fit guide, great information there, I need to review that thread.

Yes that is me on Rennlist (Westcoast) the same name I have here and Planet 9 was taken. As for communication to KAP, my last email from them was around January 15th of this year, replies seem to be a little sporadic, not sure if the person responding is always the same? As for warranty, IIRC it was 1 year on my ROiK-MIB2, possibly all of their stuff?

The reboot would drive me crazy, did this start after the new switch was added?
 

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Thanks for the link to the retro-fit guide, great information there, I need to review that thread.

Yes that is me on Rennlist (Westcoast) the same name I have here and Planet 9 was taken. As for communication to KAP, my last email from them was around January 15th of this year, replies seem to be a little sporadic, not sure if the person responding is always the same? As for warranty, IIRC it was 1 year on my ROiK-MIB2, possibly all of their stuff?

The reboot would drive me crazy, did this start after the new switch was added?
It's actually worse than a reboot. It's a shutdown that requires a power off/on to restart. Had I not installed the switch, I would actually have to turn off the engine to restart the ROIK. I did not notice the reboot before I installed the switch frankly. But realistically, I have barely used the car since I installed the ROIK at the end of August. Now, one thing for sure it that in its current state, it makes the ROIK barely usable which is a shame and why I am trying to reach out to KAP.

I suspected maybe it was an issue with the switch itself or how I wired it. So I removed it today and connected the ROIK in the same config it was a week ago (ACC 12V on B9 and Load on B3...). No difference. The ROIK still shuts down 9 times out of 10 during the boot sequence, or shortly thereafter. This is really unfortunate now I finally figured out a wiring that I like. Hopefully KAP will respond.
 

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The KAP crew delivered big time! They are awesome. Communication is a challenge, but I found out that sending them videos showing the issue is optimal. They were able to easily identify I needed a firmware update and sent me the new build. It took a couple of attempt (OMG... these instructions in the manual are so brutal) and not all USB cards are actually supported by ROIK. Interestingly enough the new build they sent me is older than the original one (2.4.3 from 3/6/20 instead of 2.5.3 from 6/25/20....) Go figure.
In the end, the firmware update took a while but now everything is working. That made my day. I am posting a video of the firmware upgrade process so I will remember if I ever have to do it. I could not recommend KAP, their hardware, software and customer service enough. And thank you Westcoaster for helping me with the wiring. Now, just have to wait for better times to actually enjoy the ride.

 

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The KAP crew delivered big time! They are awesome. Communication is a challenge, but I found out that sending them videos showing the issue is optimal. They were able to easily identify I needed a firmware update and sent me the new build. It took a couple of attempt (OMG... these instructions in the manual are so brutal) and not all USB cards are actually supported by ROIK. Interestingly enough the new build they sent me is older than the original one (2.4.3 from 3/6/20 instead of 2.5.3 from 6/25/20....) Go figure.
In the end, the firmware update took a while but now everything is working. That made my day. I am posting a video of the firmware upgrade process so I will remember if I ever have to do it. I could not recommend KAP, their hardware, software and customer service enough. And thank you Westcoaster for helping me with the wiring. Now, just have to wait for better times to actually enjoy the ride.

Hi. I had the same problem than you. They sent me 3 different FW 2.5.5, 2.5.6 and 2.5.7 but could not solve the booting problem and I could not set a wallpaper after the FW installation so in my case the FW installation was worst than was before
Could you share this FW with me?
I would like to try
If anybody wants any of the FW I comment above I can send it
 

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Hi. I had the same problem than you. They sent me 3 different FW 2.5.5, 2.5.6 and 2.5.7 but could not solve the booting problem and I could not set a wallpaper after the FW installation so in my case the FW installation was worst than was before
Could you share this FW with me?
I would like to try
If anybody wants any of the FW I comment above I can send it
I might be interested in the various firmware's... however, IIRC @Laurent is running a ROiK-10 which I understand is different hardware from what I believe you have? What I do find interesting is that the screens look identical to what I see on my ROiK-MIB2, right down to the 2 Android characters on the top left line of the screen!?

I have a ROiK-MIB2 that came with Oreo 8.1.0 and the same Build number but the hardware model number on that screen is different.

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The KAP crew delivered big time! They are awesome. Communication is a challenge, but I found out that sending them videos showing the issue is optimal. They were able to easily identify I needed a firmware update and sent me the new build. It took a couple of attempt (OMG... these instructions in the manual are so brutal) and not all USB cards are actually supported by ROIK. Interestingly enough the new build they sent me is older than the original one (2.4.3 from 3/6/20 instead of 2.5.3 from 6/25/20....) Go figure.
In the end, the firmware update took a while but now everything is working. That made my day. I am posting a video of the firmware upgrade process so I will remember if I ever have to do it. I could not recommend KAP, their hardware, software and customer service enough. And thank you Westcoaster for helping me with the wiring. Now, just have to wait for better times to actually enjoy the ride.

This is great news! Glad they replied and supplied the FW you needed! After seeing your screens I am wondering how close these hardware offering are, my MIB2 screen look identical and now I see the Build number of the FW is the same too!

I managed to pick up a second ROiK-MIB2 as a back-up, I have yet to hook it up but believe it comes with an older Android OS, in fact the same as the OP installed, I wonder if it is upgradable to Oreo...

Right now my new project is trying to re-install the AUX input for the PCM, my car did not come with it and it would be nice to have it. I checked and there are no pins or wires in the quadlock connector, so I need a harness or at minimum the pins so I can fabricate my own harness.
 

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Here is a link to the FW they sent me. Connecting.... Use at your own risk, especially if you don't have a ROIK10.
I am also adding the page from the instructions. There are two methods, one when the device is running, the other one at boot time. For my boot time was the only option since the device did not start or did not stay on long enough. The folder name is important, and probably varies from device to define. For me, the IMG file had to be in "system_roik10" (which is not what the archive KAP sent me contains). I also ran into some issues with the the device not being able to recognize the USB key I used. I had to try 3 different USB keys to finally get one that is recognized.

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Thanks for sharing. These are the FWs from my side. They are customized with the Porsche logo instead the KAP logo during starting but whit these FW you will not be able to set a wallpaper
http://soohyun615.synology.me:5000/sharing/AOdHUv9B7
http://soohyun615.synology.me:5000/sharing/HcriFxPBv
http://soohyun615.synology.me:5000/sharing/BtRmQEFcE
Thanks, downloading now for future considerations! Can you confirm what hardware platform and 'original' version of Android OS yours arrived with?
 
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