....... snip.............. Spending a few hundred bucks ever 2 years to ensure the brake system is functioning properly doesnt seem like a big deal to me.
I'm with you on changing fluid, but it need not cost hundreds of dollars for those with even minimal DIY mechanical skills. I'm guessing many people posting here have never owned a clunker as a daily driver or restored an old car. Fluid leaking from either old-school drum brake slave cylinders (can you still use the word "slave"?) or from ancient calipers is most often caused by corrosion. You pray that it's just caused by old, hard brake seals, but when you open things up you find pitting in the bore, so it's either hone or replace.
How can that happen in a system completely filled with what seems to be an oil-like fluid? Long term moisture, that's how. Moisture in brake fluid is real and will eventually lead to real problems. The prevention is pretty easy. Changing fluid once in a while is a relatively simple job. It's actually just extended brake bleeding, a process that I used to do regularly on my race cars. Precision braking is only possible when you have a high, firm pedal and that means freshly bled brakes. It makes street cars more fun to drive too.
If you rotate your tires or have some other reason to remove your wheels, that makes a perfect time to bleed your brakes. Or, when you think it's time to bleed your brakes, that is a chance to rotate your tires, you get the idea.
The process is not difficult, especially with one of those simple "one man" brake bleeding devices. Just continue the bleeding process until you see fresh fluid in order to flush the system but be absolutely sure to keep sufficient fluid in the resivoir so that you don't introduce any air in the system. No need to remove fluid from the resoviour with some fancy piece of equipment. Just keep moving it through the brake lines until you've removed all the old fluid. With the help of a second person, it can be done for the cost of the fluid alone. I use an inexpensive suction type bleeder at the brake caliper, but some owners use a pressure pot hooked up to the master cylinder; suit yourself. A dab of thick grease on the bleed nipple to help seal the hose is a good idea. Don't spill brake fluid on any painted surface.
Interestingly enough, high performance brake fluid boils at a higher temperature; therefore, it will be better for racing and track days. But the typical high performance brake fluid is more prone to absorb moisture, so unlike good engine oil, your expensive, high-temp brake fluid should be changed more frequently, not less.
I think that getting in touch with your car by performing simple servicing procedures is a good thing. Flushing brake fluid may not do anything for the short-term owner, but the guy who finds your $75,000 Cayman in a barn 60 years from now and restores it to an expensive gem will thank you when he discovers corrosion-free brake components.