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Thankfully my dealer (Chattanooga) is aware of C40 and stocks it. I'm fairly certain my engine is running C40 since the replacement engi5that was shipped from Germany had oil in it. I did one oil change myself on the original engine after break-in but used Lubro-Moly 5w-40, I'm in Alabama after all and never see -30 degree temps. The C40 is specified for low speed pre-ignition(knock) and for GPF compatibility, neither of which is much worry in a naturally aspirated engine with no active GPF. Turbo motors should be concerned with LSPI. Actually, 2020 Porsche engines call for C40 oil too, but it was almost impossible to find back then. I plan to use 5W-40 going forward and that means Lubro-Moly or similar. If you have a turbo motor you should seek C40, is NA, then it's not as much of a concern, but Porsche says all 2020 and newer engines need C40, and some even prior to that.
 

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OMFG
This article is mind-blowingly sh.it
Poor girl clearly has no idea at all about this topic. Mixing things up, copy paste probably from some random articles . Amazing.
Just checked the other oil comparison articles also on that website and the are really bad.

PS : please dont click them guys , do not generate more clicks..
Yep. Horribly written.
 

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Thankfully my dealer (Chattanooga) is aware of C40 and stocks it. I'm fairly certain my engine is running C40 since the replacement engi5that was shipped from Germany had oil in it. I did one oil change myself on the original engine after break-in but used Lubro-Moly 5w-40, I'm in Alabama after all and never see -30 degree temps. The C40 is specified for low speed pre-ignition(knock) and for GPF compatibility, neither of which is much worry in a naturally aspirated engine with no active GPF. Turbo motors should be concerned with LSPI. Actually, 2020 Porsche engines call for C40 oil too, but it was almost impossible to find back then. I plan to use 5W-40 going forward and that means Lubro-Moly or similar. If you have a turbo motor you should seek C40, is NA, then it's not as much of a concern, but Porsche says all 2020 and newer engines need C40, and some even prior to that.
Why to change to 5w40?
 

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that weight can be used in areas where winter temperatures can allow that. 0W40 has a wider temperature span, factoring in sub freezing winter temperatures

many of the states along the Gulf Coast have mild winters
0w40 is better in every cold start not just in winter . At 40 degree Celsius (100? F) it's also more fluid , better for the engine . I would not change to 5w40 if other parameters are the same . Only disadvantage then

Its Castrol, but the 40 Celsius kinematic viscosity difference is obvious. 84vs74 Even in hot climate, that start considered as cold start for the car, and the 0w oil is better for that:
Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Number
 

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I am near totally confused by people using synthetic oil that is different in spec than recommended.

there is no friction in an engine that is mildly warmed up and moving. If there was, the engine would die in one hour or less. Is you engine dead in one hour? No. THere is no friction then.

The purpose of oil grades in modern times is to make sure the oil is everywhere as fast as possible, and to reduce pressure for high flowing, high speed oils. More pressure due to thickness is bad. More pressure due to super thin but high volume thrust as it circulates is good.

5w, vs 0w, would flow worse in an engine. The initial movement is the engine wear, aside from some things that wear for very different reasons.

We want the easiest flowing liquid on start up possible. From there, basic physics keep all the high speed parts from ever touching.

even if i lived in Kuwait, I would use 0w oil from 2022.
 

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I am near totally confused by people using synthetic oil that is different in spec than recommended.

there is no friction in an engine that is mildly warmed up and moving. If there was, the engine would die in one hour or less. Is you engine dead in one hour? No. THere is no friction then.

The purpose of oil grades in modern times is to make sure the oil is everywhere as fast as possible, and to reduce pressure for high flowing, high speed oils. More pressure due to thickness is bad. More pressure due to super thin but high volume thrust as it circulates is good.

5w, vs 0w, would flow worse in an engine. The initial movement is the engine wear, aside from some things that wear for very different reasons.

We want the easiest flowing liquid on start up possible. From there, basic physics keep all the high speed parts from ever touching.

even if i lived in Kuwait, I would use 0w oil from 2022.
Every vehicle I've owned has different weights of oil (per owners manual) spelling out alternate weights of oil based on temperature in the environment its operating in

both mine call out 0W40 oil but also have alternate oil weights (for warmer climates of operation) but still call for the same specification the oil must meet
 

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Every vehicle I've owned has different weights of oil (per owners manual) spelling out alternate weights of oil based on temperature in the environment its operating in

both mine call out 0W40 oil but also have alternate oil weights (for warmer climates of operation) but still call for the same specification the oil must meet
if it has tolerances for that in the manual, that is sensible then. I still would not do it. the initial 10 seconds is all the wear. Just change it at 5000 miles not 10k like all manuals say. 0 weight is the best advance in a very long time.

Also should be noted that temperature in your engine is fairly constant. It has a water cooling system.

I really can see absolutely no reason to not use 0 weight oil if it is built for that. hot climate and cold climate have the same operating temperatures.
 

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Every vehicle I've owned has different weights of oil (per owners manual) spelling out alternate weights of oil based on temperature in the environment its operating in

both mine call out 0W40 oil but also have alternate oil weights (for warmer climates of operation) but still call for the same specification the oil must meet
Those charts are utterly obsolete.
They were more relevant with air and oil cooled engines but this information is still hanging around.
Modern engines have thermostat controlled air and oil cooling, their operating temperature is mostly independ from the air temperature .

It could happen to go one grade up ( from w40 to w50 for example) if you track the car and notice that the oil temperature is going above 120 regularly then you need an oil that can handle that temperature better.
But the low temperature grade should be as low as possible . If newer oils will be available then switch to that for better cold start protection. For example -5w40 (or whatever will be their rating)

Just forget those charts
 

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if it has tolerances for that in the manual, that is sensible then. I still would not do it. the initial 10 seconds is all the wear. Just change it at 5000 miles not 10k like all manuals say. 0 weight is the best advance in a very long time.

Also should be noted that temperature in your engine is fairly constant. It has a water cooling system.

I really can see absolutely no reason to not use 0 weight oil if it is built for that. hot climate and cold climate have the same operating temperatures.
I'm not certain what Porsche does for the oil life calculation - different manufacturers employ different approaches

My vehicles (both use full synthetic)

one vehicle has both an oil quality sensor (measures conductivity) and oil temperatures.
Clean oil has low conductivity; used / dirty oil has greater conductivity

-it monitors the two and starts off with a default of 10,000 mile intervals and counts down - in theory, if the vehicle was operated like a OTR semi (highway drives and continuous operation, few cold starts, little stop/go) it could potentially go as far as 20,000 miles.
Its averaged ~ 11,000 miles between oil changes and nearly 179k to date. I've opened up the engine to re-do cam cover gaskets, cam swaps, removed sump to change oil sensor - engine is pristine inside - no varnish, no build-up - clean internals.

My other vehicle has a temperature sensor and uses a duty cycle algorithm - again only with full synthetic oil
Its maximum is 6,000 miles / 6 months - very conservative
if oil is run hotter or much heavier loads it will count down the oil life more rapidly. This one has the hi-po larger displacement engine (compared to my first one) and so far its been 6K changes on the dot - hasn't triggered an earlier interval over 60K worth of driving in all sorts of conditions

I had the same make of an earlier year - when I changed out the cam (fresh oil / re-set monitor) I drove the snot out of it to log data for tuning (still had the 6,000 mi max interval)
-I triggered the oil change as early as 1,850 miles and had another one ~ 2,300 miles - I typically saw system requests every 5,200 - 5,500 miles after the tuning

Someone might have more info on Porsche's oil change algorithm and if it triggers early oil change messages under more severe service conditions
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
UPDATE:

I am increasing my previous estimate from 80% to 90% that your friendly neighborhood Porsche dealer is going to use "A40" oil in your 718 no matter what the year or model, or what the owner manual / yellow sticker says.

I went to Porsche Bethesda today and spoke with the parts manager. She has not been able to get C40 oil from Exxon Mobil since (at least) January. Claims that Porsche USA indicated the A40 oil is acceptable to substitute, but offered nothing in writing. When I showed her a bottle of the Mobil 1 ESP X3 C40 that I bought through Amazon - and also available through Walmart - she suggested I bring in 8 quarts when my car comes in for its first annual free maintenance. At least she was more knowledgeable than others I talked to, and was aware of the newer C40 spec. But somewhat discarded it as only affecting the emissions systems (i.e. gas particulate filters) and A40 would not harm the engine. Decided not to debate who pays for replacing the GPF's if they fail or cause a check engine light or other issues.

It is what it is. I'm about to attempt my own oil change. Hopefully I don't use BMW diesel oil by accident.
 

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I really wonder if replacing that with a Soul free flow cat+no retarded DPF would void the warranty.

I am not into mods at all, but loss of 20 hp and bunch of torque just for virtue signaling eurotrash uselessness, that's annoying.
 

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I really wonder if replacing that with a Soul free flow cat+no retarded DPF would void the warranty.

I am not into mods at all, but loss of 20 hp and bunch of torque just for virtue signaling eurotrash uselessness, that's annoying.
This "eurotrash uselessness" is a necessary bad as the small particles are really bad for the health. Really harmful.

The real issue is the direct injection what causes much more particles (and other bunch of issues) .
I would be happier with a port or port AND direct injected engine as Lambo does in the similar WV engine (and without OPF) as the Audi R8, but the R8 is only direct injected and needs OPF.

More precisely it's GPF or OPF in our cars as DPF is for diesels.
 

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This "eurotrash uselessness" is a necessary bad as the small particles are really bad for the health. Really harmful.

The real issue is the direct injection what causes much more particles (and other bunch of issues) .
I would be happier with a port or port AND direct injected engine as Lambo does in the similar WV engine (and without OPF) as the Audi R8, but the R8 is only direct injected and needs OPF.

More precisely it's GPF or OPF in our cars as DPF is for diesels.
Virtue signaling
Eurotrash uselessness
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
First DIY oil change on CGTS 4.0 successfully completed. :D

Thanks to help from the attached YouTube video, plus a new set of Race Ramps that get the car up 10" as opposed to my former 6.5" ramps, and a few other additions to the tool box. I won't reveal how long it took me so as not to discourage anyone else from trying. I watched the video several times and took a beer break while the oil was draining. I'm hopeful I can get it down to 90 minutes or less by my third oil change. Fortunately, the GTS 4.0 only has the third of three underbody panels to remove, compared to the GT4. And the oil filter housing is more visible and accessible than the one in my 2014 Cayman S. I also like the replaceable plastic drain plug that comes on and off with a oil plug tool.

BTW, to whoever recommended getting the two piece (vs single piece) 67" Race Ramps: I owe you a bottle of your favorite wine or whiskey. (y) The ability to remove the front half of the ramp meant I could far more easily access and remove and replace the underbody panel from the sides, rather than do it all from the rear. And the one piece ramp may have interfered with the preferred location of the jack stand.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive tire

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First DIY oil change on CGTS 4.0 successfully completed. :D

Thanks to help from the attached YouTube video, plus a new set of Race Ramps that get the car up 10" as opposed to my former 6.5" ramps, and a few other additions to the tool box. I won't reveal how long it took me so as not to discourage anyone else from trying. I watched the video several times and took a beer break while the oil was draining. I'm hopeful I can get it down to 90 minutes or less by my third oil change. Fortunately, the GTS 4.0 only has the third of three underbody panels to remove, compared to the GT4. And the oil filter housing is more visible and accessible than the one in my 2014 Cayman S. I also like the replaceable plastic drain plug that comes on and off with a oil plug tool.

BTW, to whoever recommended getting the two piece (vs single piece) 67" Race Ramps: I owe you a bottle of your favorite wine or whiskey. (y) The ability to remove the front half of the ramp meant I could far more easily access and remove and replace the underbody panel from the sides, rather than do it all from the rear. And the one piece ramp may have interfered with the preferred location of the jack stand.

View attachment 47239
View attachment 47240

Way to go Ed!

Did you do the plastic bag over the filter housing to avoid the mess of oil getting on things?

It looks like the cross member and oil filter housing are in near proximity to each other from the YT videos I've seen
 
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