Is this car a 2019?
The sound aktor looks, odd....
The sound aktor looks, odd....
This thread is the BEES KNEES. The pics verify:
- That the speakers in the doors are exactly like a 981 -- a 7" (up to an 8" will fit) woofer and a 3.75" (read: 4") midrange -- and do NOT include the tweeter (there's been some misinformation about this in other threads)
- How to remove the dash vents to get at the tweeters -- again, in the same placement as the 981
- The 2019 Soundaktor appears to be an all-in-one unit (i.e., the control module and noise generator are all one assembly), meaning the fuse-pull method is now the only truly easy way to disconnect it
- That the space under the passenger seat -- vacated by the 981's outboard amp, by the way, in the case of the base stereo -- is large enough for substantial hardware (amps, DSP). A request, @phroenips: Can you add a pic of that area when you install the amps, and provide rough measurements of the space so others might be able to select hardware based on dimensions (I might run a JL Audio 600/6 I already have there; still debating that)?
Two questions:
- What is that large rectangular control box above the woofer in the doors? I've heard rumors that there's a junction box there to control everything in the doors; looks like that's the unit. Do the speakers plug into that?
- What are you doing for rear fill speakers? Are you eliminating them entirely?
Bra-VO!
Thanks!This thread is the BEES KNEES. The pics verify:
- That the speakers in the doors are exactly like a 981 -- a 7" (up to an 8" will fit) woofer and a 3.75" (read: 4") midrange -- and do NOT include the tweeter (there's been some misinformation about this in other threads)
- How to remove the dash vents to get at the tweeters -- again, in the same placement as the 981
- The 2019 Soundaktor appears to be an all-in-one unit (i.e., the control module and noise generator are all one assembly), meaning the fuse-pull method is now the only truly easy way to disconnect it
- That the space under the passenger seat -- vacated by the 981's outboard amp, by the way, in the case of the base stereo -- is large enough for substantial hardware (amps, DSP). A request, @phroenips: Can you add a pic of that area when you install the amps, and provide rough measurements of the space so others might be able to select hardware based on dimensions (I might run a JL Audio 600/6 I already have there; still debating that)?
Two questions:
- What is that large rectangular control box above the woofer in the doors? I've heard rumors that there's a junction box there to control everything in the doors; looks like that's the unit. Do the speakers plug into that?
- What are you doing for rear fill speakers? Are you eliminating them entirely?
Bra-VO!
- That the speakers in the doors are exactly like a 981 -- a 7" (up to an 8" will fit) woofer and a 3.75" (read: 4") midrange -- and do NOT include the tweeter (there's been some misinformation about this in other threads)
I want to keep some/most of my rear trunk space, so I'm going to side load a sub in the left side. That's why I can only fit an 8"nice job so far. not sure if you bought the jl sub or not yet but a very, very good alternative would be the SI BM. it's a slim 12" that is quite amazing, and way cheaper too. i am currently running a alto mobile falsatff 12" but will be swapping in the SI to see how i personally like it.
Here they are:A request, @phroenips: Can you add a pic of that area when you install the amps, and provide rough measurements of the space so others might be able to select hardware based on dimensions (I might run a JL Audio 600/6 I already have there; still debating that)?
That's a good point about the glue softening. My concern about the mounting tape is that it's not a 100% flat surface between the tweeter and the plastic that it'll mount to. So, I was thinking the glue could help fill those gaps. But then I remembered I have some "thick" CA glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive; like super glue, but stronger), which may work as well.Nice.
Hot glue may soften and melt in the sun. There is some double-sided tape that is used for mounting highway signs that should(!) work.
I meant to mention... if anyone is wondering if they have their tweeters in the dash/vent like mine are, I was able to confirm it by simply putting my hand to cover the vent while playing music (a towel would work too). Doing that, I heard the high notes in the music get very muffled.there was nothing installed in my dash in my '17 cayman s with the base system. my tweet and mid were mounted in the door only. may be a model year change.
In previous tweeter installs, I've always used epoxy cement -- the kind that has two tubes, each with a plunger to 'activate' the chemistry -- because of its wide temperature resistance. It stays gooey for a good amount of time, which gives you time to re-position things if need be. Just a few dots'll do ya ... and on a dashboard, I'd say that's the best option for you. Unless it's specifically formulated for temperature extremes, 'super glue' can become brittle.That's a good point about the glue softening. My concern about the mounting tape is that it's not a 100% flat surface between the tweeter and the plastic that it'll mount to. So, I was thinking the glue could help fill those gaps. But then I remembered I have some "thick" CA glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive; like super glue, but stronger), which may work as well.