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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm ready to start the build on my Cayman!

My goals for this build is to keep an OEM look, but obviously improve the sound quality. I just want it to be subtle. Just like the color of the car:



I'll be repurposing some Hertz Mille ML1600 and ML280 for a 2-way active system. I want a subwoofer, but of course, limited in available diameter in the rear trunk. Most I can do is an 8". Based on the advice of my local shop, and their knowledge of my tastes, they suggested the JL Audio 8W7AE-3 (depth isn't nearly as much of a problem as height). I'll be doing a sealed fiberglass enclosure.

For signal, I'm using the NavTV Zen-V MOST-150 adapter, and will feed an optical signal to the amp/dsp. I know some people will choose to use high-level inputs and sum the channels, I think this is the better, simpler method.

I was planning to use the JL VX1000/5i to power it all, and actually ordered one. I know some other people have used them in their Porsche installs (991, etc), putting it under the passenger seat. I did a mock/dry fit, and I didn't feel comfortable with the amount of strain it would put on the pigtail cables.

As I was looking though, it's wider than I was expecting under there, and I believe I can fit two smaller amps, side by side. I'm instead going with the Audison AP F8.9 for the front stage, and the AP1 D monoblock for the sub. As a "bonus," I'll now have enough power and channels to go 3-way in the future if I wanted to :) I may even just try the mids that are in there now. If I don't like it, I can just mute those channels, and everything would be ready to go if I chose to buy some better midrange speakers at some point.

Ok, onto the build! First up, sound treatment.

P.S. I ripped apart a brand new Porsche within a week of ownership. All my friends think I'm nuts for some reason :rolleyes:











This car has the "Sound Package Plus" system, which is the "base." It consists of a 3-way front stage, and 2 rear speakers (tweeter sized). The woofers and the mids are in the door, and the front tweeter is on the dash, actually under the air vent modules. Here, you can see the woofer and mid:



The tweeters were more difficult to get to. Those vents are firmly held in place! I have to give a huge shout out to Elevated Audio, who were kind enough to help me figure out how to remove them. There are two sliding latches, four spring clips on the side, and one rear clip, all holding it in place. And between the shape and the **** windshield being in the way, there's no good way to get much leverage. When the clips are released, it comes up and out at around a 30 degree angle. Once it's out, the tweeters are simply clipped into place (it's not fully clipped in in this picture):



And here's what the vent itself looks like for anyone else trying to figure out how to get it out:











Now I just need to figure out how I'm actually going to mount the new tweeters. I'll definitely need to cut away some of the plastic that originally surrounded the OEM tweeter. More problematic, there's no screw holes that I found, which I could use to make an adapter. I think I might have to resort to using double sided mounting tape, or a glue or something similar. I'm not in love with any of those ideas though, and am open to suggestions if anyone has any other ideas.

BTW, in the SPP, the mids and the tweets look to be on the same channel (same colored wires). Good news though, running new speaker wires to the tweets is super easy and straight forward.

I also went ahead and took out the seats, some trim pieces, the carpet, and the head unit (PCM 4.0)





I finished up the day soldering some 16/4 speaker wire to eventually send signal from the new amp to the speaker locations in the doors.

Next, I'll probably focus on figuring out the tweeter situation, then maybe run power. Might be able to start on speaker adapters as well.
 

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This is an awesome thread. Thank you so much for doing this and posting all the pics. Please post more if you have them. It is fascinating to see the structure of the car.

Question: can you tell a difference in road noise with all the sound deadening?

Again, thank you for doing this. I’m studying your pictures and would love even more. Anyone else who has taken theirs apart please post high res pics like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think this is most of the pictures so far, but there are a few more that are in the Flickr album here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmAc1F8n

The sound deadening I used honestly didn't make a huge difference in road noise. It is slightly better, but not drastically so. I've also pulled the fuse on the soundaktor (on day 2 of ownership lol), which I feel helped as well.

The product I used (Soundskins Pro) isn't really designed to block road noise though. It's designed to dampen the sheet metal, and it also has a layer of foam which allegedly helps with acoustics and reducing reflections. I was actually quite surprised to find so much thick foam on the underside of many of the OEM pieces I pulled out. I have no doubt that the intention for doing that is to reduce road noise.

For a full and "proper" road noise reduction, I "should" have started with CLD (Constrained Layer Dampening. Think Dynamat or similar. Soundskins Pro is a CLD product, with an extra foam layer on top). Then, you should do a full layer of 1/8" closed-cell foam to decouple the next layer from the car. Finally, a layer of mass loaded vinyl (MLV) (at a density of 1 lb/sq-ft). And you need full coverage of that. Road noise and other sounds will find their way through gaps, just like water would flow through the path of least resistance. P.S. working with MLV is extremely challenging because it's so thick and heavy, and doesn't really conform to complex shapes very well. And with the tight tolerances of a new and modern vehicle, good luck getting it to fit under all the trim pieces!

For those reasons is why I decided to just do Soundskins Pro and hope for the best.
 

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This thread is the BEES KNEES. The pics verify:

- That the speakers in the doors are exactly like a 981 -- a 7" (up to an 8" will fit) woofer and a 3.75" (read: 4") midrange -- and do NOT include the tweeter (there's been some misinformation about this in other threads)
- How to remove the dash vents to get at the tweeters -- again, in the same placement as the 981
- The 2019 Soundaktor appears to be an all-in-one unit (i.e., the control module and noise generator are all one assembly), meaning the fuse-pull method is now the only truly easy way to disconnect it
- That the space under the passenger seat -- vacated by the 981's outboard amp, by the way, in the case of the base stereo -- is large enough for substantial hardware (amps, DSP). A request, @phroenips: Can you add a pic of that area when you install the amps, and provide rough measurements of the space so others might be able to select hardware based on dimensions (I might run a JL Audio 600/6 I already have there; still debating that)?

Two questions:
- What is that large rectangular control box above the woofer in the doors? I've heard rumors that there's a junction box there to control everything in the doors; looks like that's the unit. Do the speakers plug into that?
- What are you doing for rear fill speakers? Are you eliminating them entirely?

Bra-VO!
 

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This thread is the BEES KNEES. The pics verify:

- That the speakers in the doors are exactly like a 981 -- a 7" (up to an 8" will fit) woofer and a 3.75" (read: 4") midrange -- and do NOT include the tweeter (there's been some misinformation about this in other threads)
- How to remove the dash vents to get at the tweeters -- again, in the same placement as the 981
- The 2019 Soundaktor appears to be an all-in-one unit (i.e., the control module and noise generator are all one assembly), meaning the fuse-pull method is now the only truly easy way to disconnect it
- That the space under the passenger seat -- vacated by the 981's outboard amp, by the way, in the case of the base stereo -- is large enough for substantial hardware (amps, DSP). A request, @phroenips: Can you add a pic of that area when you install the amps, and provide rough measurements of the space so others might be able to select hardware based on dimensions (I might run a JL Audio 600/6 I already have there; still debating that)?

Two questions:
- What is that large rectangular control box above the woofer in the doors? I've heard rumors that there's a junction box there to control everything in the doors; looks like that's the unit. Do the speakers plug into that?
- What are you doing for rear fill speakers? Are you eliminating them entirely?

Bra-VO!

I dont want to hijack the thread (Sry), could be but that long tube indicates something more like speaker then a tactile tranducer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This thread is the BEES KNEES. The pics verify:

- That the speakers in the doors are exactly like a 981 -- a 7" (up to an 8" will fit) woofer and a 3.75" (read: 4") midrange -- and do NOT include the tweeter (there's been some misinformation about this in other threads)
- How to remove the dash vents to get at the tweeters -- again, in the same placement as the 981
- The 2019 Soundaktor appears to be an all-in-one unit (i.e., the control module and noise generator are all one assembly), meaning the fuse-pull method is now the only truly easy way to disconnect it
- That the space under the passenger seat -- vacated by the 981's outboard amp, by the way, in the case of the base stereo -- is large enough for substantial hardware (amps, DSP). A request, @phroenips: Can you add a pic of that area when you install the amps, and provide rough measurements of the space so others might be able to select hardware based on dimensions (I might run a JL Audio 600/6 I already have there; still debating that)?

Two questions:
- What is that large rectangular control box above the woofer in the doors? I've heard rumors that there's a junction box there to control everything in the doors; looks like that's the unit. Do the speakers plug into that?
- What are you doing for rear fill speakers? Are you eliminating them entirely?

Bra-VO!
Thanks!

I will definitely be adding more pictures of the install, and can provide some better measurements/dimensions when I get back out there. I only have one of the amps right now, the other one should be here today or tomorrow.

The control box is for the locks and windows. There's a plug that the door panel plugs into. This video was very helpful in learning how to take the door panel off (it's a 981, but my 718 was identical)


While I'm at it, this is a "two part" pair of videos that showed how to remove the PCM:



And to answer your last question, I'm not doing any rear fill. I'm leaving them fully connected, but they won't be playing anything. Once I reprogram the PCM to use the MOST port (which is physically there, btw, just nothing currently plugged into it. Don't worry, there will be pictures of that too when I get to that part), there won't be any signal going out of the speaker wires out of the PCM anyway. But even if there were (i.e. if I were doing high level inputs instead), I'd simply user the fader controls to move it fully forward.
 

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nice job so far. not sure if you bought the jl sub or not yet but a very, very good alternative would be the SI BM. it's a slim 12" that is quite amazing, and way cheaper too. i am currently running a alto mobile falsatff 12" but will be swapping in the SI to see how i personally like it.



https://stereointegrity.com/product/bm-mk-v-12-subwoofer/






- That the speakers in the doors are exactly like a 981 -- a 7" (up to an 8" will fit) woofer and a 3.75" (read: 4") midrange -- and do NOT include the tweeter (there's been some misinformation about this in other threads)

there was nothing installed in my dash in my '17 cayman s with the base system. my tweet and mid were mounted in the door only. may be a model year change.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
nice job so far. not sure if you bought the jl sub or not yet but a very, very good alternative would be the SI BM. it's a slim 12" that is quite amazing, and way cheaper too. i am currently running a alto mobile falsatff 12" but will be swapping in the SI to see how i personally like it.
I want to keep some/most of my rear trunk space, so I'm going to side load a sub in the left side. That's why I can only fit an 8"
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A request, @phroenips: Can you add a pic of that area when you install the amps, and provide rough measurements of the space so others might be able to select hardware based on dimensions (I might run a JL Audio 600/6 I already have there; still debating that)?
Here they are:

About 8.5" front to back



Technically, 20" side to side, though the grounding screw takes up some space. I'd say 18 to 18.5" usable



Height/depth is also a concern. The front is taller than the back, and you'll need to be mindful of the seat rails that follow that angle

2.5" up front, and 1.5" in the back



 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Onto the build update! I was apprehensive about hacking up my brand new Porsche to fit the tweeters, so I did what any reasonable person would do: ignore it and work on something else! :laugh:

Used the trusty router to make some speaker adapters. First made templates out of MDF, then transferred that to acrylic. To get the depth I needed/wanted, I'm stacking a total of three layers. The first is 1/4", and will be the part that actually screws onto the door panel, then two 1/2" rings, slightly smaller in diameter. Used acrylic cement to bond them together, they're still curing right now. Should be able to drill/tap holes for the speakers and mount them up tomorrow.



And I went and picked up the new amps. They fit! And much better than the VXI



I was going to run power to them, but realized that they only accept up to 8 gauge wire. All I have on hand is 4 gauge. Sigh. Ordered some 8 gauge from KnuKonceptz. I can at least still use the 4 gauge to the distribution block. There's a handy OEM distribution block right in the passenger footwell. I liked it, so I put a ring [terminal] on it (That's a Beyoncé joke).





And the small distro block will be right behind the monoblock amp:



Well, that's all I can do until the 8 gauge arrives. Now what? Ugh, fine, tweeters.

This makes me nervous...



I ended up cutting away the plastic surround of the OEM tweeters, and pulled out the metal clips that held it in place.







But it looks like it's going to work!



As for securing them, I think I'm just going to have to use some double sided mounting tape and/or hot glue. I looked again for a way to mount them onto the removable vent piece instead, but there's not enough clearance there, and even if there was, with the way it slides back into place, it would interfere with other areas on its way into the dash.

I finished up the evening with soldering, more soldering, and even more soldering, for the connectors onto all the various end points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nice.
Hot glue may soften and melt in the sun. There is some double-sided tape that is used for mounting highway signs that should(!) work.
That's a good point about the glue softening. My concern about the mounting tape is that it's not a 100% flat surface between the tweeter and the plastic that it'll mount to. So, I was thinking the glue could help fill those gaps. But then I remembered I have some "thick" CA glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive; like super glue, but stronger), which may work as well.
 

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Fascinating. I wouldn’t have the balls to rip up a new car like that.

With all the plastic clips on these new cars I’d end up snapping half of them off. When fishing for the Soundaktor fuse I almost snapped off a post. I hate that stuff.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
there was nothing installed in my dash in my '17 cayman s with the base system. my tweet and mid were mounted in the door only. may be a model year change.
I meant to mention... if anyone is wondering if they have their tweeters in the dash/vent like mine are, I was able to confirm it by simply putting my hand to cover the vent while playing music (a towel would work too). Doing that, I heard the high notes in the music get very muffled.
 

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That's a good point about the glue softening. My concern about the mounting tape is that it's not a 100% flat surface between the tweeter and the plastic that it'll mount to. So, I was thinking the glue could help fill those gaps. But then I remembered I have some "thick" CA glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive; like super glue, but stronger), which may work as well.
In previous tweeter installs, I've always used epoxy cement -- the kind that has two tubes, each with a plunger to 'activate' the chemistry -- because of its wide temperature resistance. It stays gooey for a good amount of time, which gives you time to re-position things if need be. Just a few dots'll do ya ... and on a dashboard, I'd say that's the best option for you. Unless it's specifically formulated for temperature extremes, 'super glue' can become brittle.

Many thanks for the amp measurements, too, as well as the distro-block location -- HUGEly helpful for what I may try (and others are sure to try). Also good to know a grounding point is mere inches away -- the shorter the ground wire from the amp, the better (I bet that's a leftover from the 981 amp days).

A suggestion for the future for plastic-trimming with the Dremel: Get one of those thin, conical diamond dust-tungsten bits. It is superb with precision plastic-trimming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Small update

Had some techflex laying around, so I wrapped my power cables. Provides zero functional benefit, but it looks cool!





The 8 gauge wire came in, so I finished running power



I was searching for a place to mount the Zen-V, and was originally thinking on top of the PCM. Here's what the back of that looks like:



But by the time I plugged in all the other wires, and tried to put the PCM back into its hole, it didn't fit. I'll have to put it in the passenger footwell area instead.



I used the ZEN-V-PRG to reprogram the PCM to send signal out of the optical MOST plug, and while I saw light coming out, the radio itself showed a message "Audio not available." Hmm. In the instructions, there's a way to do a bit of a "hybrid," where it'll send signal out the internal amplified channels, and the fiber optics. I tried that, and that got rid of the "audio not available" message.

I think I'm also having issues with the ZEN-V module itself. When I first give it power, I see the toslink port light up, but after a few seconds, it goes dark again. I already checked, and it's at the latest firmware. I think it might be having issues properly decoding the MOST signal. I'll have to give them a call on Monday.

I did end up getting the tweeters mounted too! But in the excitement of it all, forgot to get pictures :( What I wound up doing was using double-sided mounting tape. One layer on the plastic bits of the car, to contour to that; then a couple pieces on the back of the tweeter itself. This seemed to provide enough coverage, material, and thickness to make a good enough adhesion. I can't lift it up with my finger, but if I needed to get it off to replace a bad tweeter, or just try something new, I'd still be able to. So, I'm happy with it.

I'm getting so close, I can taste it! Drilled and tapped holes in my speaker adapters. And on the LAST F$#[email protected]@[email protected]%* hole, my tap breaks off! I cannot express all the feelings, emotions, and cursing that followed.



And that concluded my day, I'm off to get a beer or three with some friends.
 
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