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I was told first oil change here in the USA is no charge.
That's true! As a matter of fact, In my first year, I went to the dealership five times without getting charged a cent -- check list of things I thought were wrong and none were; one recall item, rivets in frunk; twice for pre-HPDE inspections; and I'm counting the free first service in the first year.
 

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How much was the pre-HPDE inspection? Thanks!
 

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How much was the pre-HPDE inspection? Thanks!
Perhaps it is because Bluegrass Motorsport here in Kentucky sponsors the KYPCA HPDE, but the pre-event inspections are free. Of course, in order to register at the HPDE, another inspection is required on site, but that is part of the overall fee (and done by a contingent of mechanics from the dealership).
 

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Perhaps it is because Bluegrass Motorsport here in Kentucky sponsors the KYPCA HPDE, but the pre-event inspections are free. Of course, in order to register at the HPDE, another inspection is required on site, but that is part of the overall fee (and done by a contingent of mechanics from the dealership).
You are fortunate to have a high quality facility like Blue Grass Motorsport (where we bought our CPO). I only wish they had a dealership in our area.

Porsche of San Antonio quoted $187 for a track inspection...ouch! In addition, they quoted $820 for the annual service and a complete brake fluid flush (car has 2,900 miles), whereas my Inde only charged $354.29. I realize PoSA has to make money; however, if the Inde can do it for $354, then $820 is gouging. I have yet to hear anything positive regarding PoSA, so they'll only see my warranty business.
 

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For $150 you can buy an iCarsoft device to reset the maintenance warning as well as read and reset codes, etc. Very simple.
Update: I tried to buy a unit from ICarsoft. They asked me to sent my VIN (for 2019 GTS). Then they replied they do not yet have a tool for my car.
 

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Update: I tried to buy a unit from ICarsoft. They asked me to sent my VIN (for 2019 GTS). Then they replied they do not yet have a tool for my car.
I would double check that claim with a 2nd source. Try contacting diagnostic-world.com. They list the compatibility of the iCarsoft POR V2.0 as the following:

Vehicle Coverage

Porsche Panamera 970
Porsche GT3 & GT2 996 997 991
Porsche Cayman 987
Porsche Cayman 981
Porsche Cayman 718
Porsche Cayenne
Porsche Carrera GT
Porsche Boxster 987
Porsche Boxster 986
Porsche Boxster 981
Porsche Boxster 718
Porsche 911 997
Porsche 911 996
Porsche 911 991
Porsche Macan
 

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i have an icarsoft unit. i remember that emailing with them asking about compatibility with the 718 was like pulling teeth. a lot of one word ambiguous replies, etc. It works great with my 718 and have already used it to reset the oil light once and once to read a code the car threw. I can't imagine the GTS is that different.
 
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You mean iCarSoft sales reps don't know what they are talking about? Do you have an iCarsoft unit? I want foolproof.
Multiple members have used this tool on their 718. Worked on my base model. Wouldn't think the GTS would be any different. See thread link below:

 

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I decided to change the oil in my base Cayman yesterday, at 1890 k's. I was assured by my Dealership that the oil in the car was good till the one year/15000 k scheduled service, but I'm a bit OCD with looking after machinery, especially expensive machinery. So...up on the Quickjacks after removing the 10mm plastic nut and T25 screw just forward of each rear wheel on the engine cover ( Quickjack is in the way of east removal of these two fasteners ). Jacked up the car and then found and removed a series of T25 and 10mm bolts.

I then discovered that the Quickjacks are in the way of easy removal of the engine bottom cover, so lowered the car, placed another rubber pad at each jack point, to get greater clearance between the jacks and the bottom of the car, and back up in the air. Bottom engine cover then came off reasonably easily and was pushed forward under the car , out of the way. T50 Hex to remove the drain plug on the sump, and went off for a coffee while the engine drained. Plug back in with a new crush washer and I moved on to the oil filter housing ( 74mm, 14 way filter removal wrench ). It is a really fiddly area to have to work, and I eventually got the filter housing loose, but there was no way it was going to let me
remove it from the car. The headlight adjusting rod is indeed JUST in the way ( I also removed the left rear wheel to give better visual and physical access ). I then had to undo a 10mm nut on the bottom end of the headlight leveller rod system, which is accessed through holes in the subframe...used a 10mm socket on a short extension and a long pair of needle nosed pliers to hold the end of the threaded rod that the nut is on, otherwise the whole lot rotates. You then have just enough room with that rod lowered down out of the way to get the filter and housing out.

I removed the filter and I could see very very fine metallic specs in the bottom of the housing, as well in the filter when I cut it open..as to be expected on a new engine I think. I kept the filter medium in a sealed plastic bag, just in case...insurance. Cleaned out the filter housing and blew it dry, and in with a new OEM filter. Refitted the housing and then the fun began...you can screw it up by hand till it bottoms out, but trying to get 25nm of torque onto it was not fun. I eventually gave up and resorted to a spanner on the end of the filter housing removal wrench, and got it " tight enough ". Poured in 5.5 litres of 0W-40 , refitted the headlight system rod, checked over my work, and lowered then started the car. No leaks and a drive today was event free. I have ordered another 74mm oil wrench socket that is hopefully a bit deeper than the one I have. I may modify a ring spanner to fit the end of it, so it is easier to use and tighten. Total time involved...4.5 hours, which must be some kind of record. Next time I'd expect to halve that, as I now know what to do/not do.

The car then took some time to decide how much oil was in it, but today it finally came up in the green, but below full, so I topped it off. It took exactly 6 litres..the book says 5.7 litres, so there must be a bit of leeway in the measurement sensor. In hindsight, it is a DIY job, but takes a while compared to what I was used to ( Audi RS3 was less than 1 hour ). The really fiddly bit is tightening the oil filter housing back up, but as I have said above, I'm after a better tool setup.

I intend to do interim oil/filter changes in between the yearly service that Porsche mandates...oil and a filter is less than $100 AUD, and it fills in an afternoon.
 

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I do mine personally at the 6 month marks, and get a qualified mechanic at the 12 month mark for the log books, your right under $100 is cheap insurance, and you get to learn a skill! Also makes the ownership more engaging doing stuff like that, I’ve done a k&n air filter, full brakes front and back, brake fluid flush, yet to attempt spark plugs lol


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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I'd love to hear what you come up with!
Getting the oil wrench onto the filter housing is reasonably straightforward, but finding a tool that lets you tighten or loosen the housing is the problem. The wrench I have at the moment has a 3/8 drive hole or you can use a 27mm ring spanner on the end of the wrench...but the spanner is too long and restricts how much movement you can get, as it hits parts of the car body, as does a 3/8 ratchet handle. I'll wait till I get my new oil wrench socket and see what size spanner it takes, then go and buy one and modify it ( bend, cut etc ) so I can get some decent travel and be able to know that the housing it " tight ". I'm not overly worried about not being able to get a torque wrench in there...25NM is not really tight, and I think it can be done by hand just by feel. The siting of the oil filter housing is poor...but we are stuck with it, so I'm pretty sure I'll be able to adapt something to fit.
 

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Getting the oil wrench onto the filter housing is reasonably straightforward, but finding a tool that lets you tighten or loosen the housing is the problem. The wrench I have at the moment has a 3/8 drive hole or you can use a 27mm ring spanner on the end of the wrench...but the spanner is too long and restricts how much movement you can get, as it hits parts of the car body, as does a 3/8 ratchet handle. I'll wait till I get my new oil wrench socket and see what size spanner it takes, then go and buy one and modify it ( bend, cut etc ) so I can get some decent travel and be able to know that the housing it " tight ". I'm not overly worried about not being able to get a torque wrench in there...25NM is not really tight, and I think it can be done by hand just by feel. The siting of the oil filter housing is poor...but we are stuck with it, so I'm pretty sure I'll be able to adapt something to fit.
very stupid question here.......
does the belly cover have to be re-installed for a particular reason?
it appears to be only an aid in smoothing out the air flow under the car.
or do the metal louvers fastened to this cover scoop air up into the sump location?

from what i've seen in diy vids, this is the worst part of the oil changing task.
 

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Are you the guy who owned Ferrari's? Yes, the belly cover is required to keep road dirt and grime from accumulating in the engine bay- and likely for aerodynamic reasons too.
 

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Are you the guy who owned Ferrari's? Yes, the belly cover is required to keep road dirt and grime from accumulating in the engine bay- and likely for aerodynamic reasons too.
yes. gabriella. 1987 328gts. her belly was pretty grimy if i didn't keep after her. that being said there was no belly cover.
probably the easiest and most gratifying car to change her oil. gearbox oil and coolant all pleasant tasks. ferrari does
quirky things just like other mfg. by and large "even a child of 5" could do a lot of tasks w/o fear of catastrophy.
 

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yes. gabriella. 1987 328gts. her belly was pretty grimy if i didn't keep after her. that being said there was no belly cover.
probably the easiest and most gratifying car to change her oil. gearbox oil and coolant all pleasant tasks. ferrari does
quirky things just like other mfg. by and large "even a child of 5" could do a lot of tasks w/o fear of catastrophy.
An 87 328 GTS is about as technically advanced as a ford fiesta in todays world, i also own Ferraris but up to date modern ones and again you would not be servicing them yourself without special equipment and a diagnostic tool.
The Porsche 718 and all other exotica of today are highly engineered, technical and software based platforms.
the belly pan on the 718 is designed for aero and cooling purposes, if it was beneficial to leave it off Porsche would not have included it as part of the design, these cars suffer with heat soak when pressed hard and need efficient cooling
Porsche would have saved the cost of fitting the third radiator if cooling could have been enhanced elsewhere, there are track teams that have experimented with removing the cowl and floor covers but they were put back in place with little modifications.
To achieve 15 HP per 100cc in standard form for the 2.0L is something that could only be dreamed of by Ferrari in the 90’s, these cars are capable of a reliable 22.5 HP per 100cc with a modest turbo upgrade and software tune.
At the end of the day its your car and can do what you like with it but i would not be messing with any designed Aero as the consequences in doing so could prove fatal especially at the speed these cars can travel (186MPH GPS my maximum speed to date)

Cheers
 
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