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So just had my oil changed at my shop. CS pdk. Yes the filter housing is a bugger. The guy just remover the filter cover. Turned it around, popped the filter out and put a new filter in. Without removing the housing at all. Anyway, he filled it with 5.7l. Ran the car. It was a tiny bit low so I put another .2l in. Now it is spot on. Question I have is I notice my oil pressure goes up faster now when I hit the accelerator. Almost to max. Then settles down to 20-22 again. Is this normal? I used Motul 5w-40. I live in Las Vegas so I like to go a step up in viscosity.
 

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Question I have is I notice my oil pressure goes up faster now when I hit the accelerator. Almost to max. Then settles down to 20-22 again. Is this normal? I used Motul 5w-40. I live in Las Vegas so I like to go a step up in viscosity.
Sure, you're using an oil that's thicker at ambient temperatures (5W vs the OEM 0W), so your oil pressure will be higher when the oil's cold. Your oil pressure should be similar when the oil's fully warmed-up, though (both oils are 40-weight). The 0W-40 Mobil1 shears a bit through use, too, so the old Mobil1 was probably thinner when hot than your new Motul oil.

Now, is "almost to the max" normal? That I can't answer since I'm painfully waiting for my CGTS to arrive.
 

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Ahhh. Makes sense. My car is 2 years old with 5k on it. And oil was still original. So the mobil1 0w40 was probably spent for sure. The car acts great. Nothing different about it after change.
 

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DIY Oil Change most difficult! 718 CS PDK w/ PDL

Hi Fellow 718 Cayman S Fans, I'm a DIY guy and just successfully changed the oil and filter in my 2018 Cayman S w/PDK&PDL. I have to say its the most difficult oil change of any car I've ever done. I've never had an oil filter that couldn't be removed unless other pieces of the car (other than an undertray) were removed. I watched both of the helpful videos I could find and the one that required the removal of the headlight level sensing mount was the one that I needed. I actually never removed that level sensing potentiometer - I only disconnected the bottom ball joint bolt to drop the connecting arm down. I still couldn't remove the filter housing - there simply wasn't enough room to get it out. That headlight sensor thing, the position of the bolts on the driveshaft, and some cabling in the space in that area all conspired to really restrict the removal of the filter housing/element assembly as a whole. It was like it was 'in a cave' and the filter housing itself was bigger than the 'entrance to the cave'!!!!! There was much labor involved just to get access to the filter and not much room with which to work.

There is plenty of room to rotate the filter housing in the space above where it is mounted once it is unscrewed and I was able to point the open end towards me (ie towards the "entrance to the cave") to remove the filter element and clean the inside of the filter housing while the filter housing is still 'trapped in the cave entrance". There is also room to move the filter housing up in the space above and effectively clean the mounting point and wipe the area clean. Removing the o-ring on the filter housing was also not easy with the filter housing trapped, but it was doable. Once the new filter element is installed and the two o-rings are lubricated, it relatively easy to screw the assembly back into place by hand.

I drained 6.75 quarts of oil and replaced it with 6.5 and after a drive to warm up to oil and coolant operating temperatures, the level was green and indicated a complete fill - I'll monitor this over the next few day.

If this car wasn't such a TOTAL BLAST!!! to drive - this oil filter access nonsense would really give me pause in ownership. I look forward to other DIY-ers posting better tips on how to do this...Be safe out there....
 

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Hi Fellow 718 Cayman S Fans, I'm a DIY guy and just successfully changed the oil and filter in my 2018 Cayman S w/PDK&PDL. I have to say its the most difficult oil change of any car I've ever done. I've never had an oil filter that couldn't be removed unless other pieces of the car (other than an undertray) were removed. I watched both of the helpful videos I could find and the one that required the removal of the headlight level sensing mount was the one that I needed. I actually never removed that level sensing potentiometer - I only disconnected the bottom ball joint bolt to drop the connecting arm down. I still couldn't remove the filter housing - there simply wasn't enough room to get it out. That headlight sensor thing, the position of the bolts on the driveshaft, and some cabling in the space in that area all conspired to really restrict the removal of the filter housing/element assembly as a whole. It was like it was 'in a cave' and the filter housing itself was bigger than the 'entrance to the cave'!!!!! There was much labor involved just to get access to the filter and not much room with which to work.

There is plenty of room to rotate the filter housing in the space above where it is mounted once it is unscrewed and I was able to point the open end towards me (ie towards the "entrance to the cave") to remove the filter element and clean the inside of the filter housing while the filter housing is still 'trapped in the cave entrance". There is also room to move the filter housing up in the space above and effectively clean the mounting point and wipe the area clean. Removing the o-ring on the filter housing was also not easy with the filter housing trapped, but it was doable. Once the new filter element is installed and the two o-rings are lubricated, it relatively easy to screw the assembly back into place by hand.

I drained 6.75 quarts of oil and replaced it with 6.5 and after a drive to warm up to oil and coolant operating temperatures, the level was green and indicated a complete fill - I'll monitor this over the next few day.

If this car wasn't such a TOTAL BLAST!!! to drive - this oil filter access nonsense would really give me pause in ownership. I look forward to other DIY-ers posting better tips on how to do this...Be safe out there....
Thanks and interesting on the 6.75 qts. The manual states around 5.7 liters I believe.
 

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Hi Fellow 718 Cayman S Fans, I'm a DIY guy and just successfully changed the oil and filter in my 2018 Cayman S w/PDK&PDL. I have to say its the most difficult oil change of any car I've ever done.
Many thanks for your account and insights. I agree - even with a manual 718, this was the most difficult oil change I've ever done.

Next time I may cut a hole in the undertray to make access to the drain plug easier, so that at least the hassle of removing the cumbersome undertray will be avoided. I may also install a Fumoto oil drain valve.

I'll also see if LN Engineering has a Spin-on oil filter adapter for the 718, or is planning one. Perhaps there are other products out there that can make the filter change easier?

Best wishes, and "long may you ride"!
 

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Ironman, That hole in the undertray idea is an interesting idea, and certainly would save some time, but watching my car drain, it would have to be a pretty big hole to make sure you didn't get oil onto the upper surface of that undertray - it wasn't a neat drain when I did mine. Also not sure if the hole would need to go through the aluminum structure that is part of the undertray or not. I'm thinking the oil drain plug is right under the aluminum vented section though.

Also not sure what aerodynamic forces would be at play under there - the stiffness of that whole structure might be important and removing some material could be a bad thing. I just wish it all wasn't such a labor intensive, contornionist exercise to change my oil & filter! I suspect as I do this more often, necessity will become the mother of invention and improvement. I'm hoping others will share theirs here as well. Love this car though other than that - Enjoy yours!
 

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I've had the pleasure of changing the oil and filter on my 2018 Cayman GTS with PDK 3 times and agree the hardest part is removing and re-installing the oil filter. I have a Quickjack and use creeper to move around to remove the undertray in fairly quick fashion. I then remove the top bolt of the headlight sensor with a 10 mm flat wrench extended for reach.
That should give you enough room to drop the oil filter, however you can also remove the bottom headlight sensor bolt if that helps.

I usually stock up at Canadian Tire when Mobil 0-40 goes on sale and use OEM filters from the Porsche dealer. I've probably saved over $1000 doing my own oil changes up to this point, however it helps to have the Quickjack and the right tools.
 

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"Had the pleasure" HA! Ok i get the idea of giving a bad dog a good name.

CANUCK GTS, 3 times already, you are my hero, LOL. 2 questions for you, 1) are you getting quicker with the process as you do it more and 2) is there some kind of alignment feature for that top headlight sensor? I was afraid that if I removed it, I wouldn't be able to get it back in the exact same position and might mess up whatever headlight alignment thing it does. There was on little bolt holding it into place, but I didn't see any alignment pins or anything that would allow me to "put it back like I found it". Thanks for any and all other tips you've got to share.

I've got a scissor lift that I use which made things a little easier, but I think next time I'll back in instead of pull in because some of the undertray bolts were blocked by some of the lift structure. I could get my hand and ratchet in there with just enough room to remove those two bolts in holes in the front portion of the tray, but it was a blind operation. I'm hoping if I try with the car the other way on the lift this can be avoided.
 

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rocketrich

1) Yes, as the old expression says "Practice makes Perfect" ..things go quicker through repetition.
2) Yes, there is small tab that inserts into the frame to align the headlight sensor bolt. When I first removed it I was a bit worried that it might be a problem re-installing it but it was ok, just a bit awkward getting at the bolt in that narrow space.

I also had a problem with the two plastic nuts on the outside of the tray being obstructed by my lift so now remove them with before lifting. After that everything was accessible.
 

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I can't find anywhere how to tell the computer you've changed the oil. anyone?
I have heard that the iCarsoft POR-II can do this on the 718 models. It is available on Amazon, so you could return it if it does not work for you. There is one review that says "I also tried it on my buddies 718 Cayman to reset his major maintance warning and it worked like a charm. The unit plugged into his OBD port much easier than mine". This device was also mentioned here on rennlist.
 

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I have been in contact with the iCarsoft POR II manufacturer for the last 6-7 months and they are working on specific software for the 17-18 Cayman/Boxter Oil reset programming. The manufacturer says they expect that software/firmware update is forthcoming however they do not have a specific date as of yet. You cannot reset the oil service without the use of a diagnostic/reset tool. I have also looked at all of the other products on the market and from what I can see the iCarsoft POR II is the way to go. It's ease of use and the lifetime downloads are included with the purchase of the unit. You simply go to their website and download their updates as they come out. Look at the specs and it will tell you exactly what the tools capabilities are. It is also able to connect to other Porsche models as well - you just need to verify the specific model. Some non Porsche repair/service facilities use this as well. I plan to purchase one soon and look forward to the software update/upgrade and hope that it comes out in the next couple of months. Let me know how it works out for you....
 

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I bought a Foxwell NT510 scan tool from Diagonistic World after watching their you Tube video entitled "Best Porsche Diagnostic Tool for 2018 & 2019". It would not communicate with my 2018 CGTS. It looks like it supports a lot of other Porsche models but not the 718. I have not found a scan tool yet that will reset the Oil Service Notification; thanks Porsche! Also, thanks for the crap engineering on the oil filter location. No dip stick, thanks for that too. Typical German engineering, they should get a Honda Civic up on one of their lifts to see how to engineer something than can be serviced. I wonder what else is messed up on this car if the oil change is this screwed up. It took me over two hours to change the oil and I have a lift and have been working on cars for 44 years. The car sure is fun to drive though!!
 

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Serviceability will usually be one of the challenges/compromises in a mid-engine design. The 914's tough to work on, too.
 

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I just did an oil change and used my iCarsoft POR II to shut off the oil service message. Worked fine; no more message.
 

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I just did an oil change and used my iCarsoft POR II to shut off the oil service message. Worked fine; no more message.
did they release an update? previously people had said the POR II was not compatible with the 982.
 
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