Has anyone done a DIY oil and filter change on a 718? I would like to know if it is similar to an oil change on a 987 or 981. Is access to the filter and drain plug more difficult? Thanks.
Its going to be a bit slow in seeing DIY'ers this time around since unlike the Cayman/Boxster as we knew it attracted more of that crowd. 718 attracts more of the take it to the dealer crowd - not that there's anything wrong with that.
I know what you mean and having paint protection and other types of protection done to trim, tires, etc. is a good way to start. Then just follow that up with simple washes and you'll be in the clear for a long time to come.
Hopefully you have thought about that by now! Best thing for any owner of a new vehicle to be doing.
Yes, I have full front XPEL and applied rim protection. I live in the east coast and roads have salt everywhere. I'll wait till spring to drive it. In the meantime, it is under wraps inside the garage with the trickle charger connected...can't wait till spring
What kind of protection is available for rims, and what doe it cost? Although, if the cost is similar to paint protection, I probably
don't want to know.
Ah that makes much more sense. I tend to forget the conditions outside which is why this stunned me so much. I apologize lol. Any reason for only doing the front in XPEL ?
I really don't think there's much more that you can do for rims other than applying some sort of sealant to it to "decrease" the amount of brake dust that can stick to it and what not. There are options out there that make cleaning wheels much much easier but I don't think there's any wrap of the sort.
I use "Poorboys Wheel Sealant" & find that's pretty good. It's a bit of a pain to apply & you want to make sure you polish it properly (it's bright pink) but good stuff nonetheless..
Back to the original topic. I certainly don't want to get anyone dirty, but after many years at Ford, Honda, Mazda, and Porsche dealers I learned if you can DIY and you want it done right, DIY! I guess I will be the first one to try a DIY oil change on a 718. I will let you know how it goes.
I can't imagine it being that far off from a standard oil change. Just not certain where everything is located until I get under one. If you could take photos of the locations for the drain plug and the oil filter, that would be great
Base on what I have been able to find out so far, the 718 oil filter is different than the oil filter on my 2012 987.2. The O-Ring and drain plug ring appear to the same as the 987.2, however, the oil filter housing is different. I will delay an oil/filter change until I find an oil housing tool that will remove the housing without damage.
You don't need a special oil housing remove tool. A #7 polygon oil filter removal cap works very well. I was able to loosen mine easily. I did not remove the filter housing because I was not sure how it actually came out. Any one remove one yet?
The drain plug is obvious and easy. The filter housing is located driver's side. It is tucked up a bit and is attached horizontally to the engine. The end of the housing is within a few inches of a chassis rail. It appears that the housing must be loosened completely, pulled back to the chassis rail and then dropped down. You can loosen easily it with a 74 mm polygon filter cap. Mine was not on very tight at all. I did not remove it because I was afraid I would not be able to get it out within such tight quarters. There is a drip funnel right underneath it that you attach a hose to so that you won't get oil all over the adjacent parts. That's another part that adds to the confinement of this area. Would like to hear from anyone on how the step by step removal of this housing works.
No, I jacked car up level and placed stands at jack points. BTW received instructions today from a gold level Porsche mechanic on how to remove the filter housing. His instructions were: Place a hose into the fixed funnel under the filter housing to drain spillage into a can. Use a 74 mm polygon oil filter removal cap to loosen housing. Finish by hand rotating the housing to separate from engine. Do not attempt to remove the housing with the filter in it, there's not enough room to do so. Remove just the housing first, afterwards the filter. Reverse sequence for new filter. He assured me there is no need to remove anything else on the engine or near it to accomplish this. I'm going to attempt this in the next few days or so and will take photos. If someone else attempts it before I do please post your results.
Great. Your oil change post may be the first "technical" post on this forum.
I'm at 1600 miles, so it will probably be a while before I need an oil change.
I am interested to know how you get the jack stands under the jack points and lift the car at the same time? I have a couple floor jacks, but I have not attempted to use them on my Cayman.
I'm at 2,500 miles and I just tracked the car 2 days in a row last weeked. I figure that it would now be a good time for a first oil change with the engine break-in. I drive the car up on a set of Race Ramps to support the front. If you don't have ramps you can I run a floor jack on the rear side jack point and raise the side up and place a jack on the front jack point. Do the same to the other side. If you have a couple floor jacks you could do both rear sides together somewhat. Next take a floor jack to the center of the rear of the car to a point where two bolts attach to a thick aluminum strut that attaches to the chassis. I place a small 3/4" thick block of wood on the floor jack base and lift the back end up at this point. Remove the other rear side floor jacks and place the jack stands at the two rear jack points. Lower the rear floor jack.
I tried to drag and drop a file showing this location but it was too big. Here's a link to Fabspeed which shows the point. https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct...DLPtl7q2H__DcAWYTE-d6now&ust=1494492499810828
There is also a product from Jack Point Stands (JackPoint Jackstands, LLC.) that allows you to use a jack and a stand at the same location at the same time. I have used this product on my previous 2012 Boxster successfully many times.
There is also a product from Jack Point Stands (JackPoint Jackstands, LLC.) that allows you to use a jack and a stand at the same location at the same time. I have used this product on my previous 2012 Boxster successfully many times.
The two things and only two things I want to be able to do on this car is change my oil and engine air filter. If any one has got info on air filter changing I'm all ears!
Now that we have instructions for changing the oil, has anyone found a device that will reset the maintenance alert on a 718? The usual ones do not have this generation in their supported cars lists.
Completed the oil change. I will put together an instruction page with photos in the next few days or so. Highlights are:
1. It's not that difficult, if you've change oil on a car before you can do it. Though it's not the easiest car to change oil on, but it is doable for a DIY'er.
2. The "Gold" level Porsche tech at Sunset Porsche-Audi in Portland I contacted for instructions (I live 250 miles from the nearest Porsche dealership, requested instructions for my local mechanic,me 0), is full of B.S.! The oil filter and housing do come out as a unit and must go in as a unit. It comes out horizontally, then tilts downward. There's a hose you kind of have to maneuver it by, same going in. He stated that the housing will come off first, the filter will still be attached to the oil inlet port, and then you pull it out. No way, no how could that ever happen. The oil filter cartridge has an internal "O" ring in the bottom that seats over a solid stem located in the center of the bottom of the housing. You must push it on this internal stem when you load the cartridge. Doing it with the filter sticking into the oil port would be ridiculous.
3. There were some tiny metal particles seen in the bottom of the housing after the filter cartridge was removed. That's why I decided to change my oil after the 2000 mi. Porsche break-in. I believe that all engines should have the oil changed after the break-in period.
4. The oil drains out the fastest and most thoroughly with the rear end tilted slightly higher than the front, about an inch.
5. Wash out the oil filter housing with mineral spirits and a clean rag. Blow out inside with compressed air when finished. Make sure housing threads are clean too. Put fresh oil on all 3 "O" rings (housing, external cartridge top, internal cartridge bottom)
6. Oil removed was slightly over 6 quarts. The Porsche factory probably filled it with 6 liters (6.35 quarts). I filled it with same amount removed.
That's pretty much it.
I have always done my own oil changes and plan to change the oil in my Cayman.
When you do your write-up please include the part numbers for the filter, and O-rings.
Candidate for the easiest oil change, late model Subaru Outback. The filter sits on top of the motor towards the front of the car near the oil filler and the drain plug is accessible without raising the car.
My file is a PDF with photos it's about 500 KB. This forum will only allow files around 19 KB. If any of you want the file PM me with your email address and I will send the PDF and Word docs to you. Part number for filter: 92A 107 225 00; o-ring/washer kit: 999 707 685 40. Suncoast Porsche in FL had best prices that I could find. All said and done the cost of the oil change was under $80. OK next stop is the air filter change tutorial. I live out in the desert and it can get a bit dusty here. I typically change AF's once a year, starting in late spring.
I'm anything but handy and Ikea furniture sometimes confounds me. But thanks for sharing the oil change guide for anyone who's capable of doing it at home.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Porsche 718 Forum
251.1K posts
15.3K members
Since 2014
718 Forum is the largest Porsche 718 Boxster and Cayman community. Join now to discuss modifications, exhaust, tires and more!