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Ehresmann ECU/DME Tune (Stage 2)

11K views 26 replies 8 participants last post by  stephenc 
#1 ·
Some may recall a few months back I was considering an ECU tune for my 718 CS and asking for opinions on Techart, FVD Brombacher and Ehresmann. In the end I opted for Ehresmann’s full stage 2 ‘Powerkit’– basically, a new (secondary) re-mapped ECU, hi-flow 200 cell cat downpipe and BMC air filter.

Having finally got the new ECU fitted last week, I thought I would provide a little early feedback for those who may be considering something similar, or for anyone who’s interested for that matter.

I know some folk will think adding 80-100 hp is ridiculous. And I have to admit I did have doubts myself about whether it might be too much. But it’s not at all. In reality it’s not a big a leap as you might first imagine, not least because the car just handles the additional performance so brilliantly. Yes it’s undoubtedly quick, but not in a stupid way. Which I think is down to the way the tune has been designed.

I really, really like the way Ehresmann have implemented their tune. The power delivery is brilliantly progressive and linear, and the car is just as ‘driveable’ as it ever was. They haven’t turned the throttle into a switch, so pottering around on low to medium throttle openings, at say 2,000 to 3000 rpm, it isn’t all that different to before. But when you do indulge and press on further...blimey it’s good. The power just swells endlessly, all the way up to 6,500 rpm. Yet it also feels entirely natural and suited to the car, as it handles the additional performance so well, without upsetting or overwhelming the chassis.

This could of course all go horribly wrong at some point, mechanically speaking. But for now, it’s just so irresistibly rapid and utterly addictive.
 
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#2 ·
Remind me mate, is yours an S?

It’s nice to hear the power is progressive all the way to the redline. Sounds like they made it feel natural and manageable. Glad to hear you’re enjoying it and wish you many years of happy and safe motoring.
 
#4 ·
Nice to here a review on the tune. Would be interesting to hear some numbers like 0-100, 1/4 mile. Must be quite a bit quicker particularly if you say the difference is in the higher rev ranges.

I really think Porsche have detuned these cars for emission reasons and to make them slower than some of the 911s.

I think the chassis can easily handle an extra 100hp particularly if you have SPASM and must bring things up a notch. It is a shame Porsche don't offer a performance pack/tune as an option.

I'd also imagine that if you're not tracking all day then mechanically the engine and drive train will not be any worse for wear.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Would be interesting to hear some numbers like 0-100, 1/4 mile. I think the chassis can easily handle an extra 100hp particularly if you have SPASM and must bring things up a notch.
Ehresmann don’t quote any acceleration figures, and I haven’t had the opportunity to measure anything myself yet. I suspect the biggest gains will be from 60 mph and above though. Techart quote 0-60 of 3.9 seconds for their 2.5 ‘S’ tune, so I would think it should be in that ball-park (Techart tune equates to 400hp / 354 lb-ft, Ehresmann Stage 2 is 444hp / 406 lb-ft).

My car does have SPASM (and Sport Chrono – so active engine mounts), but I think the chassis in just very good in general.

What kind of boost lvl do you have now?
I’m also curious about the boost levels. The multi-function display now readily shows a max boost pressure of 16 psi / 1.1 bar, and fills the display bar itself 100%. I wonder therefore whether this is the maximum it can display (as, I think, that’s the max stock boost pressure for the 2.5 S) as opposed to the actual. I assumed the gauge would recalibrate itself, but perhaps not. Or perhaps16 psi is max boost they’ve dialled in…I’d be surprised though given how much harder it pulls. I’ve have emailed Jens out of curiosity and will report back.
 
#9 ·
Hello Johan. Yes, as suspected, the instrument cluster shows just the stock maximum of 16 psi (they can’t change it because it’s “hardcoded”). The true value (for the 2.5s) is 20-21 psi / 1.4 bar, which makes it similar to the stock 2.0.

You seem tempted my friend :) ....I assure you, you won't be disappointed. Just do it.
 
#15 ·
I got it delivered to the UK.

A very good friend, who's an Audi / VW specialist, kindly fitted the downpipe and air filter at his garage.

Even though I opted for a new ECU, an 'ECU exchange' still needs to be undertaken by someone with (Porsche) PIWIS software. I paid a local Porsche independent / specialist to do this part - they only charged £65. It's is a relatively quick process, around 15 minutes, and basically entails reading the configuration of the existing / stock ECU and transferring it to the new ECU (containing the Stage 2 files). Although it sounds a bit of a convoluted process, in reality it wasn't. And Jens provided very comprehensive instructions on how to do everything. in fact, Jens was incredibly helpful and communicative throughout the whole process; his written english is impeccable (better than mine to be honest).

Now that both ECUs are configured for my car, I can simply unplug and switch them over myself - should I want to.

Another great thing is the tune is programmed to only be active in Sport and Sport+ modes, so it's effectively stock in normal mode. Useful in for the winter / bad weather etc. To be honest though, because the tune is so wonderfully progressive, I haven't so far felt the need or desire to go into normal/stock mode.
 
#16 ·
I got it delivered to the UK.

A very good friend, who's an Audi / VW specialist, kindly fitted the downpipe and air filter at his garage.

Even though I opted for a new ECU, an 'ECU exchange' still needs to be undertaken by someone with (Porsche) PIWIS software. I paid a local Porsche independent / specialist to do this part - they only charged £65. It's is a relatively quick process, around 15 minutes, and basically entails reading the configuration of the existing / stock ECU and transferring it to the new ECU (containing the Stage 2 files). Although it sounds a bit of a convoluted process, in reality it wasn't. And Jens provided very comprehensive instructions on how to do everything. in fact, Jens was incredibly helpful and communicative throughout the whole process; his written english is impeccable (better than mine to be honest).

Now that both ECUs are configured for my car, I can simply unplug and switch them over myself - should I want to.

Another great thing is the tune is programmed to only be active in Sport and Sport+ modes, so it's effectively stock in normal mode. Useful in for the winter / bad weather etc. To be honest though, because the tune is so wonderfully progressive, I haven't so far felt the need or desire to go into normal/stock mode.

Thats something new, i asked about for a year ago and the answer was Nope, same Hp on all the modes.
**** it, this will hurt my wallet.....
 
#19 ·
I have a 2018 CS. I had the following installed. Kline 200-cell downpipe, Kline exhaust, BMC air filter and Cobb stage 1 tune (estimated max HP is 385 HP at crank, using Porsche’s 350 peak HP and 10% gain from Cobb, for 91 Octane). The Cobb tuning requires taking down the ECU and send to Cobb for unlocking first.

So I was thrilled by the 425HP peak HP by the Ehresmann or FVD tunes. BTW, I only find FVD available in US. So I wanted to switch to FVD for the extra 40HP. However, FVD was not sure if Cobbs unlocking is compatible with their tune. And I did not want to mess up what’s working.

So I decide to go to a Pro-tuner by Cobb called Snail Performance near Sacramento, CA. They did the tune completely on a dyno.

Below is the result at Crank (using 91 Octane)
- peak HP
360HP for pro-tune, 350 HP for Cobb stage 1, and 330 HP for stock.

So if I use the 350HP at crank on stock, I still only get 381 HP at wheel from my pro-tune

Torque-wise (at crank)
- pro-tune, avg 370 ft-lb
- stock, avg 330 ft-lb

My butt dyno tells me that
- Cobb stage has more power than stock
- pro- tune has more power than Cobb stage 1

So I am walking away fairly happy.

Not much left that can be done on a 718 CS. Unless I go for the $6000 turbo charger made by TTE (TTE580 has a theoretical max power potential of 580HP). But without available parts such as enlarged inlet tubes, plenum, and improved Intercoolers, i m not sure if the TTE580 turbo charger will do much for me (for the $6k plus labor).
 

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#21 ·
Umm.... I think the HP figures you're quoting are not "at the crank". They are "at the rear wheels" because the dyno in the photo measures HP at the rear wheels and because the stock HP for a CGTS is 365 at the crank and you show 330...which would be about right for HP at the rear wheels.
 
#23 ·
Can i just ask, am I right in assuming the 'stock' dyno run was with the downpipe / hi-flow cat fitted? Assuming a 12% loss, that equates to 370 bhp engine power, which is impressive for the S. Having said that, all most all dyno runs show that Porsche's figures are conservative.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Yeah, good catch.

Where is your 12% power loss (crank to wheel) figure come from? Is that 718 Cayman specific?
No, not at all. It's purely a ball-park figure some use, but others also quote much higher differences - as well as alternate between difference and loss. Clearly, a 12% difference (i.e. WHP +12%) is not the same as a 12% loss (i.e. WHP *.88). Either one wouldn't appear to be a million off in this case.
 
#26 · (Edited)
EDIT: Mike at Soul Performance Parts posted a dyno chart here showing their downipie produced a 14 WHP gain. So in theory, you gain in total for the downpipe, ecu tune and air filter is probably nearer, say, 45 WHP. Using the previous 12% this would equate to 50 BHP.

And if you take the notional 14 WHP off your 330 WHP, that would suggest stock your car was around 355-360 BHP (i.e. assuming 12% wheel to crank gain or 12% crank to wheel loss). Which certainly seems in-line with other reports.
 
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