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Hi All,

I have always been careful to warm up my engines before high RPM/Power operation. Most of my cars have not had oil temperature readings on the dash, so I waited for coolant to reach normal temperature and wait another 5 minutes or so. With the 718, I get access to oil temperature. I was just wondering if there is a concensus for the minimum oil temp before high RPM/Power operation. Currently I wait until about 80C (176F), but that can take 10-15 minutes from a cold enigne. I suspect the oil will provided adequate engine protection at lower temperatures than that, so just thought I would post here to see what others think. My work commute is not that long, so sometimes in winter I just get it warm (80C) as I get there.

Cheers,

Adrian
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The coolant gets up to temp much quicker than the oil. I would have presumed metal parts in the engine would be closer to coolant temp than oil temp. I mean the block /heads etc. are cooled by the coolant.

My wrx has forged pistons with large clearances. It sounds like a tractor on a cold start, but the noise goes away quite quickly as it warms up. Well before the coolant gets to operating temp. I have an oil cooler on that and have to cover the cooler when driving on road as oil temp struggles to get up above 70c at all.
 

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While I like that the 718 gives an exact digital oil temperature readout, I am not a fan of the gauge itself. My rule of thumb for cars has always been that once the oil temp gauge moves off its resting position you can then start to use much more throttle. This of course only works for analog gauges and is usually somewhere in the 150-160 degree range on other german cars I have owned.
 

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I wait (to go over 4,000 rpm) until my gage is out of the blue, which as near as I can tell is 170 F. (Back when I was a C5 Corvette guy, everybody said 150 F.). These cars will equilibrate at 200 in Sport and Sport+, so I don't feel it's necessary to "warm up" to 200 before breaking 4k. It's not like engine wear switches off below a particular engine speed; I don't immediately or repeatedly take it above 4k the minute I get to 170, because I'm typically only a few miles from my house; and 200 is a short ride from 170.

If my engine is more robust than my seat leather, it should be okay.
 

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I read somewhere 154F and I am sticking to it. That's when the temperature leaves the blue. Modern oils operate at -40F and we are worried whether 140F or 190F can damage the engine?
It's not for the oil, it's for all the parts that work better when brought to operating temperature.
MOO and FWIW! It's all nothing but opinion anyway!!😁
 

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Yeah, but it's the opinion of Porsche's engineers! Their opinion counts much more than mine.
Where do have particular numbers from Porsche engineers? I don't see it. Here's what the Good to Know app says:
"Do not warm up the engine when stationary. Drive off immediately. Avoid high engine speeds and full throttle until the engine has reached operating temperature." Nothing about what "operating temperature" is.
 

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Nothing about what "operating temperature" is.
Whatever temperature it is when you are operating it, that's the operating temperature.
It's a bit like a "lifetime warranty", good for the life of the car. If the car breaks after just two years, well, that's the life of the car.

A year or two ago Christophorus had an article on Porsche's development for (I think) a current 911 engine. They let it sit it outside in northern Norway to some ridiculously cold temperature like -40C/-40F until it was fully cold, bring it inside to a dyno and immediately run it at full power until it was fully hot, take it back outside to cool down, repeat, repeat, repeat...
 

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Whatever temperature it is when you are operating it, that's the operating temperature.
It's a bit like a "lifetime warranty", good for the life of the car. If the car breaks after just two years, well, that's the life of the car.

A year or two ago Christophorus had an article on Porsche's development for (I think) a current 911 engine. They let it sit it outside in northern Norway to some ridiculously cold temperature like -40C/-40F until it was fully cold, bring it inside to a dyno and immediately run it at full power until it was fully hot, take it back outside to cool down, repeat, repeat, repeat...
Just because an engine can take such intense cold-heat cycling is not the same as it is good for it.

I personally drive it moderately until the oil temperature reaches at least 80°C/176°F then I will give it a bit more which helps warm up the engine faster, at and above 90°C/194°F I assume it is fully ready to play.
Modern oil is much better at low temperature than what used to be the standard, so it is not as critical for the oil to reach full operating temperature as in the old days.
But if You hammer it with cold oil it will wear the engine more.
 

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Whatever temperature it is when you are operating it, that's the operating temperature.
It's a bit like a "lifetime warranty", good for the life of the car. If the car breaks after just two years, well, that's the life of the car.

A year or two ago Christophorus had an article on Porsche's development for (I think) a current 911 engine. They let it sit it outside in northern Norway to some ridiculously cold temperature like -40C/-40F until it was fully cold, bring it inside to a dyno and immediately run it at full power until it was fully hot, take it back outside to cool down, repeat, repeat, repeat...
Good point. That means that you shouldn't really stomp on it until you've reached the operating temp for the mode you drive in. For Iris, Normal mode is around 235F while Sport mode is about 200F.

I think I'll accept that 195-200F is acceptable!☺
 

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Where do have particular numbers from Porsche engineers? I don't see it. Here's what the Good to Know app says:
"Do not warm up the engine when stationary. Drive off immediately. Avoid high engine speeds and full throttle until the engine has reached operating temperature." Nothing about what "operating temperature" is.
I'd think temperatures in between the blue and the red on the gage would be the acceptable "operating temperature" range. That is the foundation of my 170 F threshold.
 
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