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Experimented and failed

984 Views 20 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  RobertM
Was trying to install a power tap into the plug that powers the overhead console lights, garage opener, parking sensors, etc.

I did something when I tested, because now I have no power to the console and my airbag warning light is on.

Is this likely a fuse replacement situation or something maybe bigger? My car came with no extra fuses, and it appears the parking sensor and overhead lights are both 5A fuses, interestingly though one is located in drivers side and the other in passenger fuse box.

There was no info related to airbag warning and fuses in the manual.

Re 5A fuses, would this be any standard fuse that I can order through Amazon? Thanks for everyone’s help.

Once fixed, will route power down into the fuse box for my camera.
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Was trying to install a power tap into the plug that powers the overhead console lights, garage opener, parking sensors, etc.

I did something when I tested, because now I have no power to the console and my airbag warning light is on.

Is this likely a fuse replacement situation or something maybe bigger? My car came with no extra fuses, and it appears the parking sensor and overhead lights are both 5A fuses, interestingly though one is located in drivers side and the other in passenger fuse box.

There was no info related to airbag warning and fuses in the manual.

Re 5A fuses, would this be any standard fuse that I can order through Amazon? Thanks for everyone’s help.

Once fixed, will route power down into the fuse box for my camera.
According to GTK, replacement fuses should be as attached.

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They’re not on mine, at least in the footwell boxes. :confused:
Any 5A bladed fuse will work. You'll have to find the blown fuse that powers the components you mentioned, pull it, then get a replacement fuse to replace it with. Look in the GTK app to find out where the fuse is located. You can either get a few from Amazon or just go to a local auto parts place like AutoZone, Napa, or O'Reilly's or whatever it is you have near you so you don't wait for the Amazon truck.
Ok, thanks, I know where they are located.
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Have you tested the fuse to confirm it’s blown?
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I don’t think I have the equipment to do that?
I don’t think I have the equipment to do that?
Do you have a multi-meter?
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I don’t think I have the equipment to do that?
Any multimeter would work to test it but if you don't have one the simplest tool for checking is a cheap continuity tester and you can get one for a couple bucks. Pin each side of the bladed fuse and the light will come on if it is good.

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The rear lights remained on even after turning car off and doors closed. Settings were lights fading out at 10s. Front/overhead lights including the ambient lighting remained off as a result if whatever I did. Garage door opener and parking sensor buttons too were not able to be turned on.

I dislocated terminals from battery to do a reset. Afterwards, now the entire interior lights will not turn on. Everything else remained the same. So I clearly did something there.

When I look at the manual, it shows different fuses for the overhead buttons and interior lighting. What’s further confusing, and maybe troublesome, is that the same fuse responsible for the interior lighting drivers side row B #4) also seems to be responsible for many things a that still work like the rear fog light and rear window screen heat.

I have a oil change scheduled for next Friday, so at least it’ll get addressed by then if I can’t figure it out beforehand.

Oh, and weird issues now with my drivers side window, like when I went to pull on handle after locking, the window came down slightly and never went back up. Ugh.
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Something definitely happened Payman. Sounds like it'll take more than a multi-meter or a Continuity tester to get it sorted. May have to reset the PCM or something. Hopefully it'll be an easy fox for the dealer.
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You don't need a tester to see if the fuse has blown. You can see the bridging element through the plastic. If it's blown you'll see it.
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You don't need a tester to see if the fuse has blown. You can see the bridging element through the plastic. If it's blown you'll see it.
Not always. I’ve had some, on a different car, that had broken right at the very edge and you couldn’t see it. Theoretically they’re designed to separate there but not always. A multimeter or a continuity checker are good tools to have anyway.
I ordered a multimeter and a fuse set from Amazon… both should be here today and when I’m back tomorrow from a short wknd trip, I’m going to inspect/replace fuses to eliminate that as the culprit, obviously hoping that’s it.

Either I’m confusing the manual’s description of what’s related to which fuses or I’m just not educated why some items would be impacted and others are not, but both are related to the same fuse.
Oh, and weird issues now with my drivers side window, like when I went to pull on handle after locking, the window came down slightly and never went back up. Ugh.
that could be from having the battery disconnected, you may need to re-train the windows so they know how far to go in auto up/down mode. look for "reset windows" here or in the good to know app
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It was a busted 5A overhead console fuse! Hooray! Thanks for all help and encouragement.
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It was a busted 5A overhead console fuse! Hooray! Thanks for all help and encouragement.
Great news! So glad for you that it wasn't anything serious.
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Great news! So glad for you that it wasn't anything serious.
Thanks BobS.
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