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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone!

Just acquired a 2018 GTS and already finding excuses to grab the keys and run errands!

For my first mod, I recently ordered Numeric Short Shifter (Stock feels great going into gears, but throw is a bit long) and clear LED side markers.

As my second mod, I would like to do something with the suspension. My previous car was an RS3 and I know each platform has vastly different characteristics. So, I wanted to ask what would be the best bang for buck suspension mod? In the past with AWD and FWD cars, it has always been the rear sway bars. However, for the 718 I'd like to get something that I can feel right away on the STREET only going up to 5/10ths. I know an aggressive alignment setup would probably be the bang for buck "mod" and very noticeable on the street but would like to see if there is anything else for now that I can do before I get an alignment done. Don't want to do the alignment twice!

I went on Tarret website and looks like they recommend GT3 sway bars and LCA's but my budget is only $1000 at this point.
 

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I want to see how this works out. Unless you get really good advice I'm betting you can't improve it much by swapping in unrelated parts. An integrated package, well perhaps but not for a budget. The 718's suspension is already better than most other cars on the street. The old suspension upgrade rules probably don't work so well. For examples: You would probably do better by spending more on better tires, but that's more than your budget. If you end up tweaking the suspension you may end up paying for it by having to replace tires sooner anyway.

Just being the devil's advocate. In the old days the first thing I wanted to do with a car was make personal "improvements". Who cared if it destroyed the aesthetics or some other intangible? When I started with a new or new-ish car I was learned not to tweak something the manufacture had done well. In your case it's the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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I want to see how this works out. Unless you get really good advice I'm betting you can't improve it much by swapping in unrelated parts. An integrated package, well perhaps but not for a budget. The 718's suspension is already better than most other cars on the street. The old suspension upgrade rules probably don't work so well. For examples: You would probably do better by spending more on better tires, but that's more than your budget. If you end up tweaking the suspension you may end up paying for it by having to replace tires sooner anyway.

Just being the devil's advocate. In the old days the first thing I wanted to do with a car was make personal "improvements". Who cared if it destroyed the aesthetics or some other intangible? When I started with a new or new-ish car I was learned not to tweak something the manufacture had done well. In your case it's the suspension.
And to your point, I'm even thinking maybe doing some quick weight saving mods like battery, and save up for a full turboback exhaust. Keep the great stock suspension setup but lower the overall weight to get even more nimble and perhaps even accentuate the stock suspension.
 

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For $1000 I'd suggest and alignment for now pocket the rest and save up for coilovers, sway bars and LCAs. Oh, and tires like Jim suggested.
 

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My suggestion would be to reduce unsprung weight by saving up for lighter wheels. The cast 20s on the GTS probably weigh close to 30 lbs/wheel, if not more. Find forged 19s that fit (and, obviously the tires would likely weigh less, too), and you'll likely shave close to 50 lbs off your car -- all unsprung weight, so your suspension will be that more responsive.
 

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^ this
I went to lightweight 18s (track) plus I'm running smaller diameter providing mechanical advantage.
Unsprung weight is worth twice the benefit of sprung weight.
 

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For $1000 I'd suggest and alignment for now pocket the rest and save up for coilovers, sway bars and LCAs. Oh, and tires like Jim suggested.
I had the camber adjusted from -.5 to -1.2 (as far as they could go). They wanted to get to at least -1.8 or -.2. This is on my base model with PASM. I felt the change instantly and want more! This makes the car more like what I was expecting.

I was going to go with Tarrett's Club Sport plates, but they raise the car by .09" (2.2mm), and my car is lowered 10mm with PASm. Will it make a difference?

Now I question whether to go with Ohlins coilers and the Tarrett Race plates for even less camber but have to wait to the extra $$$ for the Ohlins. Plus, I don't know if I'm going to keep the car or sell up for a GTS.
 

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As my second mod, I would like to do something with the suspension. My previous car was an RS3 and I know each platform has vastly different characteristics. So, I wanted to ask what would be the best bang for buck suspension mod?
... but my budget is only $1000 at this point.
If you have PASM - first thing you need DSC Sport v3 Controller to replace your stock PASM Controller. It almost fits your budget.

Second mod, and this is an ultimate one - buy a pro PASM suspension. My choice is for Tractive, because they are fastest and they work best together with DSC.

I have both mods and both are great for road and track experience. For daily use you will have much softer ride, for racetrack you will get a completely new level of experience and lap times.
 

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More camber definitely helps grip and tire life for aggressive driving. LCAs will get you the camber without changing ride height. And of course I support Ohlins :devilish:

I had the camber adjusted from -.5 to -1.2 (as far as they could go). They wanted to get to at least -1.8 or -.2. This is on my base model with PASM. I felt the change instantly and want more! This makes the car more like what I was expecting.

I was going to go with Tarrett's Club Sport plates, but they raise the car by .09" (2.2mm), and my car is lowered 10mm with PASm. Will it make a difference?

Now I question whether to go with Ohlins coilers and the Tarrett Race plates for even less camber but have to wait to the extra $$$ for the Ohlins. Plus, I don't know if I'm going to keep the car or sell up for a GTS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
More camber definitely helps grip and tire life for aggressive driving. LCAs will get you the camber without changing ride height. And of course I support Ohlins :devilish:
Any recommendations on LCA's? Impressions on non rubber bushing vs a full gt3 LCA? I want more direct feel and response and assume this one would do the job? cup-series-control-arm-kit-erp-lca-cup

Afterwards I will do a full alignment. I'm OK with the factory PASM (20mm lower). Much better than the magride I had in my previous rs3.

For alignment I'm thinking :
Zero toes all around with slight toe in at the rears
-2.3 camber at the front and - 1.5 rear.

I did zero toes all around on my previous AWD car, and man what a difference (fun) it made on the street.
 

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Depends what are you doing with the car? We sell Tarett, SPL and OE GT3 arms. I run SPLs in my Cayman, if you're going to do anything beyond std GT3 arms the SPL arms offer the most features for a very reasonable price. If you aren't tracking the GT3 are are more than sufficient.

GT3: GT3 Control Arm Kit (Pair), 996/997/986/987/981/991/718

Tarett: Cup-Series Control Arm Kit

SPL: SPL Billet Lower Control Arm Kit 996/997/986/987/981/991/718

Alignment wise that sounds good. If you're not sure what to do 0 toe is a safe starting point.

Josh

Any recommendations on LCA's? Impressions on non rubber bushing vs a full gt3 LCA? I want more direct feel and response and assume this one would do the job? cup-series-control-arm-kit-erp-lca-cup

Afterwards I will do a full alignment. I'm OK with the factory PASM (20mm lower). Much better than the magride I had in my previous rs3.

For alignment I'm thinking :
Zero toes all around with slight toe in at the rears
-2.3 camber at the front and - 1.5 rear.

I did zero toes all around on my previous AWD car, and man what a difference (fun) it made on the street.
 
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