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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My current floor jack is fine for my other vehicles but sits too high for the Boxster. Any recommendations for a reasonably-priced jack that'll work?
 

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I have two different 3000 lb economy priced jacks that work. The Torin Big Red and the US General. I have used both for several years without any problems, however, I prefer the US General. Also, since you live in PA, Costco has a jack that should work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So getting back to this after quite some time, there do not appear to be “approved” lift points except for the four slots for the jack stands. So, where to place the floor jack to lift the car in order to get the jack stands under the the lift points?
 

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So getting back to this after quite some time, there do not appear to be “approved” lift points except for the four slots for the jack stands. So, where to place the floor jack to lift the car in order to get the jack stands under the the lift points?
Jack up at the rear jack point to get at stand under the front (the front will come up too). Do the same on the other side. Now you have the fronts done. Jack the rear up at the apex of the aluminium strut underneath in the center rear of the car. Use a rubber pad or wood block on your jack. Several companies make a part that you can bolt on at this point. You really don't need it. Raise rear up and place both rear jack stands in place.
 

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If doing this in your garage and you have some spare wheels laying around then once a part of the vehicle is jacked up, put a wheel under as well. This acts as a fail safe and ensures you won't get injured if under the car.
 

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JackPoint jack stands (Home) makes a product open on one side that allows you to jack up the car and then lower it onto the JackPoint stands. This raises the car about 12 inches. I typically use these JackPoint stands on the two rear jack points which allows a standard stand at the two front jack points. I have been using these JackPoint stands for 5 years without any problems.
 
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Attached is a pic of the jack pads I made for uses with the 2-ton Harbor Freight aluminum racing jack and jack stands. The dowels are 1-inch in diameter and do not bear any weight. Instead, they're for positively locating the four pads at the four support points beneath the car. The block with the two partially drilled holes interfaces with the apex brace that JCJ mentioned. This piece is actually angled to match the angle of the support brace.

Hope this helps.

Jason

Jack Pads.jpg
 

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I use a 2-ton Harbor Freight aluminum racing jack
i have that same little blue and silver jack. cheap, works, light. yep, that will do. fits on the front points easily and i have the fabspeed rear jack point bolt on thingy. swapping street to track tires is pretty easy to do.
 

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What's the best point to place the floor jack in oder to lift the entire front at one time to provide room to place the jack stands behind the front wheels?

Thanks.
 
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As a follow up to my question...


I believe this is the location which you can lift the entire rear at once:






And, I believe the location just behind where the front lower control arm meets the chassis rail is the best place to lift the entire front at once. Or, is it further back on the chassis rail near the factory jack point behind the wheel?







My problem is, especially with PASM Sport, my car is too low to get the low profile jack to reach it. My jack can only reach the traditional front jack point where I'd like to place the jack stand












So, if the referenced jack point above is the location to lift the entire front at once is correct, I suppose I could use the scissor jack that came with the car or another floor jack to lift one side of the front enough to get my large floor jack to the lift point to take over from there in lifting the entire front?


 

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On a related topic, a set of lift pucks will protect your jack pads from metal-to-metal contact. Since I am apparently too new to the forum to include links in my postings (plus I had one sorta-long post shunted off to the moderators - newbies can't use more than 57 wordzz?), you can find some nifty lift pucks in RennList. Just search for "lift pucks" in the Parts Marketplace. At least for my Spyder, I can vouch for the ones from SmokinGTS.
 

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I have a low profile floor jack, but must have jack stands under the car before I will consider getting under the car. The problem is once you use the car's lift point with the floor jack, where can you safely place the jack stand???

I purchased liftbars Liftbars. Great idea, but I could not get the jack stand under the bars and under the car. I purchased an 8'x12" board that I cut into four 2' sections. I cut a beveled edge on each section, drive my car up on the pads and the liftbars I can lift the entire car on to jack stands. It's super stable, and I can store everything away without taking up a lot of space.

The only downside to the lift bars is that when in place, the bars prevent access to the screws/nuts that hold the floor pans in place. So, you want to remove the floor pan before using the liftbars. Not really a big deal, but adds another step to the process.
 

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I spoke with the service manager of my local Porsche shop. He said the car does not have an alternative jack point and that I should only use the four positions as specified by the owner's manual. I took agent 86's advice and order these today:



Liftbars



 

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I spoke with the service manager of my local Porsche shop. He said the car does not have an alternative jack point and that I should only use the four positions as specified by the owner's manual. I took agent 86's advice and order these today:



Liftbars



How do they get the car to go up that second step?

Also - when you get the bar can you post a review of it?
 

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How do they get the car to go up that second step?

Also - when you get the bar can you post a review of it?
I have the liftbars, and I think I understand your question.

If after getting the car on all 4 jack stands, you want additional height, you place your floor jack back under the bar and begin jacking until you reach the desired height (both sides alternating). When lowering the car, you will want to lower each side gradually until the car is at a safe height (not likely to tip over) before finally lowering to the ground. This is only necessary if the car is lifted quite high.

Not sure about my ability to write a review, but I will try.

I have used the bars 3 times and I'm very pleased with this solution. I feel safe climbing under the car. Lifting the car using liftbars requires a few more steps, but i really like the fact that the bars can be easily stored without taking up any space in my garage. I considered the other unique jack stands available, but liked this product best.

I experienced 2 annoyances that I had not considered before purchasing the liftbars.

1.) our 718 sits so low that you cannot place the bar on the floor jack and roll the bar under the car. So, I made 4 ramp pads (2'x12"x2" see images in my post above) using lumber to get the additional height needed.
2.) if the work you are doing on the car requires removing the floor pan, you will want to remove the pan before lifting the car because the liftbars cover the floor pan screws/nuts

The bars are quite heavy at roughly 15lbs. each and at roughly 5ft long, you need to be careful maneuvering them in close quarters. They are well made and nicely balanced. I'm not a welder, but the welds look really good (see my close up photos above). The buttons fit perfectly and securely into the openings at the jack points on our car. Once your car is perched on the bars/jack stands the setup is very stable. My garage floor is flat and level so no problems there.

My Harbor Freight 3 ton jack stands cradle the bars perfectly allowing the car to pivot as it is being lifted or lowered.

I believe the cost was just under $300 shipped using PayPal.

There are lots of positive comments on Rennlist.

BTW, I have no relationship of any kind to the manufacturer of the liftbars.
 
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