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Discussion Starter #1
So my brake light came on today after 39k milas of daily driving. No track days but I enjoy sliding the back around but nothing much.
Got quoted for $2000 for pads,rotors. Sensors and labor. However, I think 40k miles for new rotors are hen I have not done a track day sounds weird. Now the dealer has not seen my car yet, just ave me a quite for everything.
Thoughts?

Rippey
 

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Sounds like your shop is preparing you for the worst case, and from that price it sounds like Porsche dealer prices. Most OEM rotors will usually last through several sets of pads (unless you're heavily tracking the car), and you can buy aftermarket parts for much less if you're into that sort of thing.
 

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So my brake light came on today after 39k milas of daily driving. No track days but I enjoy sliding the back around but nothing much.
Got quoted for $2000 for pads,rotors. Sensors and labor. However, I think 40k miles for new rotors are hen I have not done a track day sounds weird. Now the dealer has not seen my car yet, just ave me a quite for everything.
Thoughts?

Rippey
I leased a BMW 428i coupe a few years ago, and while it was having it's second annual service done I got a call from the service department that the rotors was worn down and I got a similar quote to yours.
This was after only around 40.000 km (~25.000 miles), and I never tracked the car... I did drive it hard though :devilish:
Luckily this was covered by my lease contract, the service department just didn't know the car was a lease when making the call.
 

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Find an indie shop with good reputation. The main advantage, past the lower hourly labor charge, is that they will do the sensible thing in maintenance and repairs (that's how they get their good reputation).

About 15 years ago, I wake up and my Merc has a dead battery. I know enough not to go to Mercedes for a new battery, I am 3 years past the (1 year) warranty they offered there. Next day, the new battery is also dead. Jump start the car, go to the battery place, they have a test light that shows a short.

Take to Mercedes to find the short. My regular dealer, where I went for repairs, sent me to another dealership who had the expert on shorts. Three days and €540 later the short is fixed, 'defective electronic board/controller of seat movements'.

Two years later I am introduced to an indie shop with a good reputation, and the conversation is about another electrical fault, so I regaled him with the story.

The indie electrician shook his head, 'this is a common problem' he said, 'the cable that transmits power to the board, rubs on the seat rail and eventually shorts'. 'Here, we use 3 cents worth of insulating tape, but the dealership can't have the liability of a home style repair and changes the €500 board'!... :eek:
 

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On that note, do we have a place on the site for recommended indie shops? Could be divided geographically.
Another sticky suggestion (I seem to be full of them :) maybe. Seems like it would be a much better use of the site rather than non-ending posts arguing about sound or resale value of T4 models.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually, I misheard the message, they quoted me $2900 for pads, rotors, sensors, clips and labor for front and rear. However, I doubt it highly my rotors need replacing since I dont track the car and mostly do local driving. I am going to check the local indy shops however as there are a couple in northern NJ
 

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On that note, do we have a place on the site for recommended indie shops? Could be divided geographically.
Another sticky suggestion (I seem to be full of them :) maybe. Seems like it would be a much better use of the site rather than non-ending posts arguing about sound or resale value of T4 models.
The problem with Stickies is one of manpower. It's also one of organization. And also one of Thread discipline. And so on ...

Most 'Stickies' happen on smaller forums such as this one because a Thread becomes such a good resource that it deserves to be reference-level information. They almost always start out as regular Threads, however.

My suggestion would be to start a thread about the Sticky topic you'd like to see. That way, you can edit the original post (the 'OP') to include all of the valuable info that comes up as the Thread grows and more info comes in.

That is how this one I started as a how-to on disconnecting the Soundaktor got its start. It came to be well before I assumed Moderator duties. I edited the original post on it several times before that happened.
 

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Is this for all four wheels? Or just the fronts or the rears? If it is for all four then it is an average price for a dealership change.

Porsche will always change rotors and pads together.
 

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OEM Porsche components come to about $1500 give or take - that's prices from Pelican. Porsche parts are way more expensive than other brands - more than twice as expensive in some cases. Obviously the dealer gets them at a much lower cost than retail. Still seems quite high for labor. A good indie shop could probably do the job for around $1500 or even less. It would seem about $350 - $425 a wheel is reasonable for parts and labor.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Its for a
Is this for all four wheels? Or just the fronts or the rears? If it is for all four then it is an average price for a dealership change.

Porsche will always change rotors and pads together.
ll four wheels and its for everything although I doubt I need rotors after 40K miles with zero track days.

Rippey
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Its for a
Is this for all four wheels? Or just the fronts or the rears? If it is for all four then it is an average price for a dealership change.

Porsche will always change rotors and pads together.
ll four wheels and its for everything although I doubt I need rotors after 40K miles with zero track days.

Rippey
 

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I was just quoted around $2300 for all four with rotors using Porsche parts from an independent shop. This shop also "suggested" replacing the rotors with each pad change which seemed like overkill to me. I measured the rotors and they are down about 0.5mm from the original width, and look to have about 1.5mm left on them. Keep in mind I'm just over 20k miles with about five track days on the clock. I am going to keep the rotors and just swap out the pads. Ordered OEM front and rear pads and all new caliper bolts from Suncoast for about $360 shipped - seemed very reasonable. I've decided to not replace the sensors and just zip-tie them out of the way since I'm having tech inspections consistently over half the year and I look at the pads quite often. I plan on attempting the job this weekend. Wish me luck!!!
 

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@cbarra

I plan on doing my rear sometime over the next week or two. Any advice after your experience?

By the way, what thickness are you seeing for when it is recommended to replace the rotors?
 

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@cbarra

I plan on doing my rear sometime over the next week or two. Any advice after your experience?

By the way, what thickness are you seeing for when it is recommended to replace the rotors?
So... After pulling the first caliper off and then pulling out the pads, I noticed they seemed quite thick - as in 8.5mm thick! I’m not sure why I thought they were thin. I attempted to measure thickness with the wheels on, which apparently was not very accurate! Anyway, I put everything back together again. The process was not that difficult and I feel comfortable doing it again. No special tricks. Make sure you have the proper Torx bit for the calipers, I don’t recall the size - T55 I think. I didn’t find anything definitive on caliper thickness.
 

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So... After pulling the first caliper off and then pulling out the pads, I noticed they seemed quite thick - as in 8.5mm thick! I’m not sure why I thought they were thin. I attempted to measure thickness with the wheels on, which apparently was not very accurate! Anyway, I put everything back together again. The process was not that difficult and I feel comfortable doing it again. No special tricks. Make sure you have the proper Torx bit for the calipers, I don’t recall the size - T55 I think. I didn’t find anything definitive on caliper thickness.
I had to replace the Brembo discs (rotors) on my Megane RS 265 around the 45k kms mark. This also coincided with needing new pads for the first time. Apparently due to the wear on the rotors my car would not have passed it's annual Warrant Of Fitness (i.e. MOT test or similar). It wasn't so much the thickness of the rotors that was an issue but rather the percentage of wear vs. the original item. There was a clear ridge that indicated wear of approx 1mm or so, which apparently was no longer to standard. I believe the discs would have been fine but my car would not have passed without having them changed.
 
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