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I negotiated my price, net, with the doc fee because I have seen fees anywhere from about $250-$875. After we settled on a price, my dealer just discounted the price of the car by the “ dealer doc fee” and added it back on in the purchase contract. I think it was about $375 in my case. Second car I have bought from this dealer the same way. They really don’t want to discount the dealer fee but prefer to discount the car price.
 

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Ours is $399 and it's non negotiable... At Audi we charged $800, so $400 seems reasonable. Plus, they are processing all the documents for the transaction (title, registration, warranty and/or PPF, etc...). Someone has to get paid for processing the docs.
 
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I always ask for how much the check needs to be. Then I go from there with my target number in mind. Much easier and less stress to negotiate one number and one number only. How they then split this number on the contract I don't care as long as it adds up correctly. That being said I believe my dealer charges around $600 doc fee - I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@Michael1 it's important to know which state you reside in. Read: https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-fees-should-you-pay.html The doc fees vary largely by state as you can see. Some states cap them and some don't.

Thank you for the link to the chart. That answers my question. For California, the Doc Fee is limited to $80.



I was also wondering if you get a credit on your sales tax when trading in your car. I suspected the answer would be "no" in California. Also interesting that California taxes sales incentives, so a $100 incentive is only worth say $90!
 
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