I see you have the 25AH option as well. Will that not work on a 718 GTS?We have a few options.
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I'd suggest the 40Ah, still saves you well over 30lbs!
It states that it is a factory drop in, so no brackets required if I went with 30Ah?We have some ~6lb options but I wouldn't suggest them for a street car. 30Ah is the minimum we suggest on a street/daily type of car.
Correct. The old RS-30 design required a bracket. The newer versions do not.It states that it is a factory drop in, so no brackets required if I went with 30Ah?
I leave my lithium battery cars for months at a time without any problem. I do trickle charge them over the winter though. The new batteries have a remote fob, which is nice for our Porsches with electric hood latches They also have a button on the top of the battery for the restart feature.I’m very interested in the Antigravity battery for one of / or both of my cars. Nice weight savings. I also fear coming home to a dead battery when I am away for several weeks or more. I’ve read something about them having some self start ability via a remote FOB. Though I have read some owners going up to 6 weeks without driving the car and it starts fine. Unfortunately the garage where I park has no outlets for a battery tender.
Okay, now I'm curious.The new batteries have a remote fob, which is nice for our Porsches with electric hood latches They also have a button on the top of the battery for the restart feature.
On it's own, no not really.I'm new to this platform, but can you actually feel a difference in handling with 40 lbs removed?
On it's own, no not really.
Weight shedding needs to be a ongoing project with care given to where weight is removed.(balance)
Weight shedding can improve performance on track, but unless you are an advance/solo driver benefits are minimal.
Before my 718 I tracked a Z4MC and an E92M3
My Z4MC weight was reduced by +200lbs and that was a massive difference that could easily be felt seat of pants.
I did a similar reduction with the M3 but that car was still much heavier than the Z4MC and ultimately why I changed to the 718.
I might look at some weight reduction in the future with the 718 but I really don't feel the need the way i did with the BMWs
I might do the full turbo back and battery at the same time. Perhaps I can feel a difference then? Roughly 70lbs.
I was also planning on going lithium but there were issues with the antigravity batteries in the GT4/Cayman:
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I'm not sure if they've been sorted out yet. I plan on waiting until other people have tested them in the 718 and it's proven to work.
I'm going for ~100lb weight reduction since anything past that starts to get a bit more extreme and you lose comfort. I've run the numbers and 100lbs seems reasonable from these cars without much sacrifice or lots of $$$$. Any weight reduction helps even though I'm sure I won't notice that last 0.2s on the track.
What's your strategy for 100 lbs redux?
All of this should be roughly 100lbs. Maybe just under. I'll make a new post once I've done it all and actually weighed everything. The lithium battery would be the last thing I do. If there's any other easy stuff I'm missing let me know
- Lithium battery
- Turbo back exhuast
- 19" wheel + tire setup (currently have stock 20")
- 2 piece rotors (this might not actually save weight depending on what I go with)
- Remove air compressor, tool kit and other plastic trim pieces in the front trunk
- Remove floor mats
- Drain wiper fluid to minimum level to prevent the light (I've never used it in 3 years). Might even just rip out the whole tank/system if it's not much work.
- Fabric tow strap instead of stock metal one (I was going to do this anyways and it's also lighter so win/win)
A full 64L tank of fuel is also ~104lbs so with this weight reduction and a low fuel amount, you've got a decent savings if you want to set some proper lap times. I'm not out there chasing the last 0.1s (yet), but it's just nice knowing that a lighter car will be better in all areas and tires/brakes last longer too. All adds up!
Beyond this, you sacrifice comfort which I'm not willing to do right now. I drive 15,000kms a year on the street so it's not a track only car for me.
Yep. Basically, like any LiIon battery, it has it's own management system in the battery itself. And from what I've read when that state of charge gets low enough it actually cuts the battery to the car. The battery has enough power for one good start at this point. You click the fob and then battery cuts back in.It's sounding like the battery has a secondary battery (or other power source) to restart the main battery when necessary. Or an internal switch to disengage the battery so that the car's small while-parked requirements won't run it down.