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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After the $400, 10000 mile oil change, and the $800 , 20000 mile oil change and brake flush, I am wondering how much the 30,000 mile tuneup will cost. The maintenance recommends that the plugs be changes. I am thinking $1200. Not bad, 30,000 miles, $2400 in service and $1600 in tires. These cars are a little expensive for a daily driver like mine.
 

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The way I'm going, tires are going to be more than maintenance.





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@dpcompt, have you considered the pre-paid maintenance plan? I acquired it before my first service and received a PCA discount. Plus, I didn't have to pay sales tax (6.75% here in NC). Whereas, if I purchased each service at the dealer, I'd pay the cost plus sales tax. For four years, I just need to drop off the car for the annual service and sign with no payment.


After the car is out of warranty and expiration of my 48 month pre-paid plan, I'll likely be using a highly recommended independent shop and doing more of the work myself.




FWIW, the non discounted cost of the 4 year service plan was $3,200. So, I would expect around $800 / year on average to keep the car on the road maintained by the dealer.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
10,000, 20,000, and 30,000 services

What do they do at the 1st-2nd and 3rd?
The 10 was an oil and oil filter change. The 20,000 was oil, oil filter, and replace brake fluid. The 30,000 includes spark plug replacement ( ouch). Seems a little early for a '17 car. Many of today's cars will go 100,000 miles on a set of plugs. And many of these cars have plenty of power pe liter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pre paid

:D Love it!



@dpcompt, have you considered the pre-paid maintenance plan? I acquired it before my first service and received a PCA discount. Plus, I didn't have to pay sales tax (6.75% here in NC). Whereas, if I purchased each service at the dealer, I'd pay the cost plus sales tax. For four years, I just need to drop off the car for the annual service and sign with no payment.


After the car is out of warranty and expiration of my 48 month pre-paid plan, I'll likely be using a highly recommended independent shop and doing more of the work myself.




FWIW, the non discounted cost of the 4 year service plan was $3,200. So, I would expect around $800 / year on average to keep the car on the road maintained by the dealer.
I think most prepaid plans are based on both years and mileage. The $3200 would probably covered 2 years for me. My big mistake was buying this car as a daily driver. There are plenty of cars in this price range that do not have these maintenance costs. After owning a multitude of Porsches, this will probably be my last. I am not a car owner that drives his car 5000 miles a year.
 

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I thought about pre paid maintenance but reputable independent shops still cost less. Obviously I’d take the car to the dealer for warranty work but that shouldn’t cost anything. Nothing says you need the dealer to do service to maintain the warranty and many owners do their own maintenance to save on ownership costs.
 

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There are several pro Porsche shops that I know of around the country that all perform an oil and filter change for under $200. That includes 8Qts of synthetic and new oil filter as well as gasket and labor. They will also check all of the fluids and replenish where necessary.
Doing a brake fluid bleed and purge somewhere around $150 using Motul or other hi temp brake fluid.
They also perform other mechanical services associated with brakes, plugs, belts etc.
Nothing here is rocket science.
Pre Paid standard services are just another way for the dealer to make extra money on the sale.
 

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I thought about pre paid maintenance but reputable independent shops still cost less. Obviously I’d take the car to the dealer for warranty work but that shouldn’t cost anything. Nothing says you need the dealer to do service to maintain the warranty and many owners do their own maintenance to save on ownership costs.

Porsche seems to go out of their way to make it difficult for owners to perform their own maintenance.



There are no factory service manuals available, at least none that anyone on the forums can point me to. Go to helminc.com, and you'll see all kinds of manufacturers with factory service manuals that they print for them. You need a service manual to get bolt torque specs. I sure wouldn't want to be putting new spark plugs into aluminum heads without properly torquing them. Of course, it is helpful to know the proper disassembly and reassembly procedures, too.



Then Porsche makes you take the car to the dealer to get the maintenance reminder reset. For other cars I've owned, you just push dash buttons in a particular sequence to reset the maintenance reminder.
 

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I changed my oil last week at 3800 miles. It took me about an hour. (I wasn’t hurrying). I can see why the dealer charges $300. It was a little bit of a pain in the ass. I’m sure if you guys invested in the tools it would more than pay off in the long run and there is a LOT of satisfaction knowing it’s done right and not flatrated.
 

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My 20k service is due in 30 days. My CS has 6300 miles.

Today I ordered the parts from Pelican to perform most of the 20K service tasks myself. Total order including shipping $139.99 after 10% PCA Discount. My order included wiper blades, oil filter, spare filter housing, housing O-ring, drain plug, (2) drain plug washers, both cabin filters.

I will perform the brake flush myself for an additional $100 for brake fluid and bleeder kit.

My dealer says that the 20k service costs roughly $1500.

Oil & Filter Change ($?)
Brake Flush ($179.99)
Alignment ($199.99)
Fuel Induction ($179.95 - I'm not sure what this involves)
Cabin Air Filter for air intake housing
Cabin Air Filter for blower housing
Wiper Blades
Reset Service Reminder (my service department will perform this task at no cost, even when I change the oil myself)
Number of checks, and inspections
 

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There are several pro Porsche shops that I know of around the country that all perform an oil and filter change for under $200. That includes 8Qts of synthetic and new oil filter as well as gasket and labor. They will also check all of the fluids and replenish where necessary.
Doing a brake fluid bleed and purge somewhere around $150 using Motul or other hi temp brake fluid.
They also perform other mechanical services associated with brakes, plugs, belts etc.
Nothing here is rocket science.
Pre Paid standard services are just another way for the dealer to make extra money on the sale.
True and they would love you to roll that into financing if you use that purchase method. Any savings you had will be recouped in interest.
 

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I changed my oil last week at 3800 miles. It took me about an hour. (I wasn’t hurrying). I can see why the dealer charges $300. It was a little bit of a pain in the ass. I’m sure if you guys invested in the tools it would more than pay off in the long run and there is a LOT of satisfaction knowing it’s done right and not flatrated.
I did not have the same success - yet. Never put any car on jack stands before and only got one done. Had to hand carve the hockey puck to fit the stand top as the jack would not get the car high enough to get the stand under the jack point, got the wheel off (easy as always) could not get my ratchet to fit on the oil filter cover socket but very slowly got a crescent wrench to loosen it (with hose attached to filter drain spigot). Ran out of time so I let it sit overnight. Got up to finish the job, but the rain finally quit so I just buttoned it all back up enjoyed the car on a fabulous day and got me a shallow headed ratchet and ideas on how to fully jack up the car on all four jack stands to do a proper job of it.

Sure is good to hear it can be done by others, so eventually I should be able to with patience and determination.
 

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I did not have the same success - yet. Never put any car on jack stands before and only got one done. Had to hand carve the hockey puck to fit the stand top as the jack would not get the car high enough to get the stand under the jack point, got the wheel off (easy as always) could not get my ratchet to fit on the oil filter cover socket but very slowly got a crescent wrench to loosen it (with hose attached to filter drain spigot). Ran out of time so I let it sit overnight. Got up to finish the job, but the rain finally quit so I just buttoned it all back up enjoyed the car on a fabulous day and got me a shallow headed ratchet and ideas on how to fully jack up the car on all four jack stands to do a proper job of it.

Sure is good to hear it can be done by others, so eventually I should be able to with patience and determination.
I bought a set of Liftbars Liftbars. I think I paid under $300 shipped. They are quite robust at about 15lbs per bar, but they are easy to store. The only disadvantage of the liftbars is that you must remove the floor pan before lifting the car. The bars block access to the floor pan fasteners.

There's also Quickjack https://www.quickjack.com. It's considerably more than the liftbars and I'm not sure if you would need to remove the floor pan in advance.

Since I only need to lift all 4 corners once a year (oil change), I can't justify the cost of the Quickjack.
 

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My 20k service is due in 30 days. My CS has 6300 miles.

Today I ordered the parts from Pelican to perform most of the 20K service tasks myself. Total order including shipping $139.99 after 10% PCA Discount. My order included wiper blades, oil filter, spare filter housing, housing O-ring, drain plug, (2) drain plug washers, both cabin filters.

I will perform the brake flush myself for an additional $100 for brake fluid and bleeder kit.

My dealer says that the 20k service costs roughly $1500.

Oil & Filter Change ($?)
Brake Flush ($179.99)
Alignment ($199.99)
Fuel Induction ($179.95 - I'm not sure what this involves)
Cabin Air Filter for air intake housing
Cabin Air Filter for blower housing
Wiper Blades
Reset Service Reminder (my service department will perform this task at no cost, even when I change the oil myself)
Number of checks, and inspections

This sounds good. Where can we get the torque specs for the filter and drain plug?
 

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[

There's also Quickjack https://www.quickjack.com. It's considerably more than the liftbars and I'm not sure if you would need to remove the floor pan in advance.

Since I only need to lift all 4 corners once a year (oil change), I can't justify the cost of the Quickjack.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the input. Not much room to get to the floor pan fasteners without lifting of some sort. I made a pair of stepped ramps out of treated 2X8s that worked well on a VW GTI. Could use that approach to get the floor pan off first. Hmmm.
 
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