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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I did the changeover to Girodisc two piece rotors and EBC red pads today. I didn't plan on doing this myself. Last time I changed pads and rotors was on my now gone 350Z. That was 15 years ago lol I did it because everyone was booked for a few weeks and besides, it was a rainy day with no golf and no yard work. Man I wish I had a QuickJack for this. It's now on my list of purchases. It would have mad this a much easier job.

Pads/rotors are bedded, but even though I installed new sensors, I'm getting a pad warning light with "Safe to Drive" warning as well. Anyone have any idea why, other than to check the sensor connections? Does this job need a reset?

34008
 

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Did you have warning before the changes? Try old sensors.

Did you both front and back ?


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you have warning before the changes? Try old sensors.

Did you both front and back ?


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No warning prior to this. I replaced both front and rear rotors and pads. I also replaced the sensors. I guess I need to pull the wheels and check to see if the sensors are seated properly and connected properly.
 

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Try the old sensors if they haven’t warn thru (enough to trigger warning), don’t reconnect to the pads just connect into socket and use zip ties to keep the buggers away safe!


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Try the old sensors if they haven’t warn thru (enough to trigger warning), don’t reconnect to the pads just connect into socket and use zip ties to keep the buggers away safe!


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What would be wrong with the new sensors to suggest re-using the old sensors? They're OEM.
 

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What would be wrong with the new sensors to suggest re-using the old sensors? They're OEM.
Manufactured fault or possibly damaged fitting causing a loop to ground issue, put the old one back if the problem goes away it’s a faulty new sensor, things can be manufactured faulty.

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The sensors are simply just pieces of wiring....it's a "closed loop", so when that wire wears through because your pads are thin, the wire will be "open" and cause the fault. Maybe you broke one of the wires?
I recently replaced my rotors and pads (with EBC Yellowstuffs) and had to replace all sensors (the old ones were brittle and all broke). I used Sebco rotors to save (a lot of) money...and they work great. Possibly not quite as light, though.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The sensors are simply just pieces of wiring....it's a "closed loop", so when that wire wears through because your pads are thin, the wire will be "open" and cause the fault. Maybe you broke one of the wires?
I recently replaced my rotors and pads (with EBC Yellowstuffs) and had to replace all sensors (the old ones were brittle and all broke). I used Sebco rotors to save (a lot of) money...and they work great. Possibly not quite as light, though.

:)
Yeah the old sensors were brittle. I broke one when removing it. I noticed the sensor has a copper piece where it seats into the pad. The pads are painted. So either one of these are not seated well enough to form a circuit, or I possible broke one in the process of installing. I'll check them all when I get the opportunity. I just get the idiot light and message about worn pads, but everything is fine otherwise. Drove around for about 45 minutes after the install, to bed them, and I didn't have to put my foot out to stop lol
 

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Manufactured fault or possibly damaged fitting causing a loop to ground issue, put the old one back if the problem goes away it’s a faulty new sensor, things can be manufactured faulty.

cheers
this, a possible fault. And the fact they become brittle and I check my brakes regularly is why I just reconnect them to the module, and just zip tie, them and not connect to actual brake pad…..


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Related topic. How do like the brakes? I assume the Girodisc are lighter than the stock discs. How is the brake dust. Stock brakes are pretty bad when it comes to. rke dust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
this, a possible fault. And the fact they become brittle and I check my brakes regularly is why I just reconnect them to the module, and just zip tie, them and not connect to actual brake pad…..


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If I don't find any misconnection in the sensors, then I'll probably just zip tie them off as well. It's not like I'll burn thru the pads and they at least get checked annually for state inspection. I, from time to time remove the wheels for cleaning and also look to see if there's anything that needs attention.

Related topic. How do like the brakes? I assume the Girodisc are lighter than the stock discs. How is the brake dust. Stock brakes are pretty bad when it comes to. rke dust.
They have only been on the car for a day. Did a short 45 m minute run with them after finishing the install to take the glaze off of the rotors and to bed the pads. Today it rained all day, so wasn't out with the car. I'll report back with my impression and findings after spending some time with this setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Reporting back on this change. I've now had the opportunity to do a bit of back road and highway driving and I have to say I'm pleased. After a little over 100 miles there is very little brake dust on the wheels. Usually after a driving stint such as I did earlier this morning, the barrels of the wheels and the outer surfaces would have a noticeable layer of dust. So far the combination of the Girodisc rotors and EBC Reds have shown a real reduction in dust. That is a nice consequence when considering this combination offers much better modulation and a quiet ride. All in all, even though this is a higher cost that going OEM, the benefits outweigh that IMO. It's certainly a much less expensive alternative than changing to PCCBs and the associated hardware that's necessary.
 

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Thanks for providing us an update on your experience with the Girodisc rotors and EBC Reds. Nice results. I will seriously consider this setup when it comes time for new pads and discs. Better modulation, a quiet ride and less brake dust sounds good to me for the $ premium.
 

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Thanks for providing us an update on your experience with the Girodisc rotors and EBC Reds. Nice results. I will seriously consider this setup when it comes time for new pads and discs. Better modulation, a quiet ride and less brake dust sounds good to me for the $ premium.
I changed out to EBC reds the second week I took delivery, I am so anal when it comes to keeping my car clean, I was mortified when the brake dust turned into the least of my problems the moment the rotors started rusting before my eyes, the moment I cleaned my car and then drove it would deposit brown sludge rust stains all over the inner rims and up the side of my car.
I purchased giro disc rotors from an American cousin here (josh_357 Thank you very much) the fact that girodisc are galvanised on the interior veins and not drilled guarantee a rust free service life and combined with the EBC red stuff pads it becomes a force against dust and rust stains 👌😘
= ONE HAPPY CAMPER
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I changed out to EBC reds the second week I took delivery, I am so anal when it comes to keeping my car clean, I was mortified when the brake dust turned into the least of my problems the moment the rotors started rusting before my eyes, the moment I cleaned my car and then drove it would deposit brown sludge rust stains all over the inner rims and up the side of my car.
I purchased giro disc rotors from an American cousin here (josh_357 Thank you very much) the fact that girodisc are galvanised on the interior veins and not drilled guarantee a rust free service life and combined with the EBC red stuff pads it becomes a force against dust and rust stains 👌😘
= ONE HAPPY CAMPER
Drilled rotors certainly contribute to the dust mess immensely. I always hit them with the pressure washer and it's amazing how much black sludge just pours from them. Even with doing that, when I removed the OEM rotors, many of the holes, especially on the inner side, were clogged with the black dust. Not sure why Porsche insists on using them when slotted rotors will provide the same wet weather braking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Almost forgetting to make an update on the brake pad warning light issue. It seems I didn't have one of the connectors attached - driver side rear. I'm sure I thought I had it plugged and secured, but obviously that wasn't the case. The connector is ahead of the caliper and behind the strut. And being right-handed makes it difficult to get hands, arms and shoulders inside the wheel well. The other side is easy as it's on the right side of the strut. Fronts can be done with the wheels turned as needed.

I discovered and connected it today and the idiot light went off. So this idiot is now happy I don't have to keep pressing the back button on the steering wheel to make the message clear the display.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OK another update. Yeah, no this setup isn't as dust free as I would have liked. I did a 65 mile jaunt and tonight when going over the car, well the rims did have a coating of dust. More than my first drive a few days ago. I'm sure some of it was from the roads as I was on some curvy country back roads that were less than idea in terms of surface. That said, I'm still happy with the setup and besides, I needed brakes anyway. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Another update. I can report that after some good use and washings, this combination of rotors and pads makes it much easier to maintain the wheels. I guess I didn't give them enough time to wear the protective coating on the rotors and pads to really make a determination. Though the combination is not dust free, it is certainly better than the OEM components in terms of dust produced by the pads and the subsequent oxidation on the rotors after washing or driving in the rain. Brake modulation feels much better and stopping power stronger. That should even get better after I change out the brake lines with braided SS lines this coming Wednesday. If you are in need of brakes, I can confidently recommend the combination of Girodiscs and EBC Reds. They also look much better as they fill the wheels with rotors that are more substantial in appearance.
 

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Another update. I can report that after some good use and washings, this combination of rotors and pads makes it much easier to maintain the wheels. I guess I didn't give them enough time to wear the protective coating on the rotors and pads to really make a determination. Though the combination is not dust free, it is certainly better than the OEM components in terms of dust produced by the pads and the subsequent oxidation on the rotors after washing or driving in the rain. Brake modulation feels much better and stopping power stronger. That should even get better after I change out the brake lines with braided SS lines this coming Wednesday. If you are in need of brakes, I can confidently recommend the combination of Girodiscs and EBC Reds. They also look much better as they fill the wheels with rotors that are more substantial in appearance.
Thanks for the update!

On a percentage scale, approximately how much dust buildup compared to OEM? On the same scale, how much difficulty in cleaning away the dust vs OEM? Also looking forward to your impression of how the setup performs at the track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the update!

On a percentage scale, approximately how much dust buildup compared to OEM? On the same scale, how much difficulty in cleaning away the dust vs OEM? Also looking forward to your impression of how the setup performs at the track.
Well you may be waiting a while for the track update. Though I did have fun at the PEC event, it's not really my thing. I already have too many time/fiance consuming hobbies :rolleyes: I think there are a few guys here that track these rotors. They probably have good insight about their performance on the track.

Regarding the dust, if I have to quantify it, I'd say 20% of the OEM setup. I have to assume some of the buildup is road grime which would appear even on PCCB equipped cars. It really is a light dust vs the heavy dust coating I experienced with the OEM brakes. The cleanup for me when not washing the car, consists of a quick wipe down with a damp microfiber cloth. I would use the same method when I had the OEM brakes when not washing the car, but I can say the grime was more persistent. It definitely took more effort to get the wheels looking good. I think if PCCBs aren't in the equation, then these are the next best option.

I have been looking at various 911s and PCCBs were a priority as I really didn't want to be dealing with heavy brake dust buildup on the wheels of another car. But that mindset has changed because I think these are a really good option.
 
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