[neilr_]

I recently picked up a set of Victor (sub-brand of TSW, focused on Porsche) Sascha 18-inch rotary-forged wheels to be my winter set. I think they weigh 22-23lbs and I wonder how they compare to my OEM 18-inch Cayman (base) wheels. Does anyone know (or can link to) what the weights of the OEM wheels are?

I think I like them enough to make them my summer set (and migrate my OEM wheels to winter duty), but I probably won't unless there's some weight savings to be had. For reference, they look like this:

 

[don]

I weighed my OEM 20" Carrera S wheels with Michelin PS4S tires on the digital bathroom scales and they came in at approx 45 lbs front and 51 lbs rear, which I thought was reasonable.

The smaller 18" should be a lighter wheel but then the tire will be slightly heavier so you need to check the combined weight.

 

[neilr_]

Tire Rack says your tires weigh 23 (front) and 27 (rear) pounds, so that puts your wheels at around 22 and 24 pounds, respectively. My tires are around 22 and 26 pounds (and I don't yet know what the wheel+tire weight is), so there's a reasonable chance it'll be a wash for me. Are the aesthetics enough to warrant to hassle? TBD…

Thanks for adding your perspective.

 

[don]

I think the wheel + tire weight difference needs to be > 4 lbs before you start expereincing any noticeable benefits or disadvatnages from unsprung mass and even then you would need to be driving on the track or near the limit to notice the difference.

Unless you really like the look of the wheels I'd be putting the heavier set with the winter tires which might also be a little narrower so lighter. If there's rain, snow or ice you will be taking it easy anyway. Put the lighter wheels with your summer tires.

 

[neilr_]

I finally received all of my wheels and a hanging luggage scale. The Victor wheels are about 23lbs each (curiously, the 10" rear wheel was consistently lighter than the 8.5" front wheel). Unfortunately, I couldn't get my OEM wheels off of my car - they're pretty well stuck and I did as much trickery as I felt comfortable with. I'm taking them all to a wheel shop next Saturday. I've decided that I do like the aesthetics of the Victor wheels more and will make them my summer set.

Vaguely related question: while trying to remove my OEM wheels, I noticed these cracks in the tires. Is this something to be concerned with or just par for the course?

 

[phroenips]

Vaguely related question: while trying to remove my OEM wheels, I noticed these cracks in the tires. Is this something to be concerned with or just par for the course?

View attachment 25571

I see some in the space perpendicular to your circled area as well. It looks like dry rot to me, but I'm surprised to see it on a relatively new vehicle. What's the date code on the tires?

What is a tire date code and where do I find it? | TireBuyer.com

Not sure how old your tires are? We can show you exactly how to find out. Look for a number that starts with the letters DOT followed by a series of 10-12 characters.

www.tirebuyer.com

 

[neilr_]

The date codes on my front tires (the above photo is from the front driver-side tire) are "3017" which is consistent with my car being produced in December 2017. The rear tires are "0519" and "0319", which fits with the Carfax item for two tires mounted and balanced in October 2019.

 

[Viffermike]

I finally received all of my wheels and a hanging luggage scale. The Victor wheels are about 23lbs each (curiously, the 10" rear wheel was consistently lighter than the 8.5" front wheel).

That's pretty average for an 18" wheel. (That's the Sascha, by the way -- discontinued, according to Victor's website). Victor specializes in forged wheels, which makes it even more interesting that those are fairly heavy. I'm willing to bet that the 18-inch Cayman OEM wheels, which are almost certainly made by BBS, are actually lighter than your Victors.

 

[neilr_]

I saw that the Saschas were discontinued when I went looking for specs. I’m assuming that’s the reason they were as cheap as they were ($130/wheel).

I had a set of TSW (Victor’s parent company) Interlagos wheels on my 228i. Those were also rotary forged, but weighed a bit less than 19lbs for 18x8s.

I do like the look of the Sascha, so I’m going to go ahead and do the swap That’ll also give me a chance to weigh the OEM wheels.

Edit: the Sascha has 15 spokes to the 9 on the Interlagos. I imagine that contributes significantly to the weight difference.

 

[GregW]

Vaguely related question: while trying to remove my OEM wheels, I noticed these cracks in the tires. Is this something to be concerned with or just par for the course?

Summer tyres can crack if driven in the cold. BUT I have no idea if those cracks are serious. I have had none on either of my two sets of Pirellis.

 

[DriveInHouston]

It is difficult to find information with anything more than generalizations. Below is a GM bulletin on the subject from 2014:

From other sources, I believe I posted some info from TireRack in the past, driving in temperatures below 20F (-7C) can result in permanent damage to the sidewall lining and the damage is obvious and not covered by warranty. I have not seen any reference to cracks in the tread channels before.

 

[neilr_]

I found this article on Tire Rack last night:

https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=273

They say this regarding traction vs temperature:

“As ambient temperatures get colder, typically in the 40-45° Fahrenheit range, summer performance tires lose a noticeable percentage of traction as their tread compound rubber properties change from a pliable elastic to inflexible plastic. The tire industry uses the term "glass transition" to describe the temperature where a summer performance tire's grip/slip performance changes dramatically.”

And this regarding damage vs temperature:

“If ambient temperatures drop to near- or below-freezing, driving or rolling a vehicle equipped with summer performance tires risks the possibility of tread compound cracking. Tread compound cracking is a permanent condition that requires the tires to be replaced.”

Here in the Portland area, we’ve been seeing temperatures in the 40s, but it’s usually in the upper half by the time I start driving. I haven’t had any slipping, but I’m a generally careful driver still getting used to this new car

I’m hoping that I don’t find myself needing a new set of tires when I go in for the wheel swap on Saturday. If I do, I don’t know that I want to stick with the original Pirellis, but it doesn’t look like the Michelin Pilot Sport 4S is available in my sizes at 18”. Pondering alternatives…

 

[DriveInHouston]

...Pondering alternatives…

I always liked Bridgestone S0x Pole Position, a good performer at a good price.

The Goodyears are Porsche Spec N0.

...and of course, the Pirellis come with a Porsche spec (N1).

 

[neilr_]

The S-04s were the ones I specifically had my eye on

 

[DriveInHouston]

I remember the Bridgestone S01 Pole Position. They were legendary in the nineties. I bought RE 50s (70s? whichever was the civilian version) for my wife's BMW 328i back in 99. The difference from the stock Yokos was night and day. She's running RE 71s in her current BMW. We are very happy with them.

 

[grasmere]

Oh, “weight of OEM wheels”,
I wondered what a thread about “wheel balancing weights” could be ?

 

[neilr_]

I had my OEM wheels swapped out for my new Victor Sascha wheels and @Viffermike was correct: the OEM wheels are lighter (in the front) - 20# vs 23#.

Here’s the result:

 

[Mad A]

What was the weight of the rear OEM 18 wheels?

I had my OEM wheels swapped out for my new Victor Sascha wheels and @Viffermike was correct: the OEM wheels are lighter (in the front) - 20# vs 23#.

Here’s the result:
View attachment 25621