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Edit: Looking at the instructions, I see the top mount bearing you're referring to. But I don't think that bearing alone will prevent spring binding. Perhaps I over-tightened the lock nut on the top? (workshop manual says this nut is supposed to be 52 ft/lbs.)
The bearing should prevent any spring binding. The load from the spring should transfer into the aluminum upper spring seat into that bearing. There should not be any rotational movement of the spring between the spring seat, all motion should be in the bearing. The spring should stay fixed in location relative to the strut body. The strut rod should also stay fixed relative to the top mount and the strut body rotates about the strut rod. You are not hearing tire judder when turning right? P-cars like to make tons of tire noise at parking speeds.
 

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The bearing should prevent any spring binding. The load from the spring should transfer into the aluminum upper spring seat into that bearing. There should not be any rotational movement of the spring between the spring seat, all motion should be in the bearing. The spring should stay fixed in location relative to the strut body. The strut rod should also stay fixed relative to the top mount and the strut body rotates about the strut rod. You are not hearing tire judder when turning right? P-cars like to make tons of tire noise at parking speeds.
So this is what I have in the instructions...
30205
30206


The "OE top mount with bearing" is number 12 in your drawing. I'm not seeing anywhere to use #11.

This is very helpful in understanding, though. And I think you're right about the spring seat rotating about the strut rod. I'm just not sure why mine isn't doing that. I'll loosen the torque and retorque it and see if that helps. Crossing my fingers!
 

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So this is what I have in the instructions...
View attachment 30205 View attachment 30206

The "OE top mount with bearing" is number 12 in your drawing. I'm not seeing anywhere to use #11.

This is very helpful in understanding, though. And I think you're right about the spring seat rotating about the strut rod. I'm just not sure why mine isn't doing that. I'll loosen the torque and retorque it and see if that helps. Crossing my fingers!
The bearing is in the top hat 11+12, that’s how you get “OE top mount with bearing”.
 

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Alright...I'll check my box of strut parts to see if I missed something. This could account for the 12mm difference in the setup, too. Which would suck for me since my corner balance is done. <Face palm>
If you are indeed missing that bearing, you could measure the length of each strut, from top mounting surface to knuckle mounting surface and recreate it on each corner. Might not mess up the balance. Essentially keeping equivalent spring preload and shock length and resultant corner balance should be very close to same.
 

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Ok, so I have the parts shown below. The black one indeed has a needle bearing in it. The yellow spacer just has the plastic spacer. I don't recall which one goes on the front.
Question is, both of these have molded spring seats for the OE springs. The Ohlins are flat and therefore sit flush. Also, I don't see in the Ohlins instructions where it says to use this part, because it is a separate piece. Yes, it fits together but it's not "the" top mount.

If I add this back in, it will not sit flush against the springs. Sooo....?

30210
 

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Ok, so I have the parts shown below. The black one indeed has a needle bearing in it. The yellow spacer just has the plastic spacer. I don't recall which one goes on the front.
Question is, both of these have molded spring seats for the OE springs. The Ohlins are flat and therefore sit flush. Also, I don't see in the Ohlins instructions where it says to use this part, because it is a separate piece. Yes, it fits together but it's not "the" top mount.

If I add this back in, it will not sit flush against the springs. Sooo....?

View attachment 30210
Right part goes in the front. You remove the black rubber isolator per note on top of page 3 of install guide. The left is the rear spacer and isolator for the rear strut.

So to be clear, use the bearing assembly without the rubber isolator, that way the Ohlins spring seat will sit flat onto the bearing.
 

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Got it fixed...only took about an hour, and only removed the top nut and swiveled the strut down to get the thrust bearing on. Thanks for the help! I looked at the instructions again, and I see where it says to discard the rubber isolator, but there really are 3 separate parts and not just two as the picture indicates. I had to adjust my ride height to compensate for the bearing thickness, but it's all set now. Test drive was perfect with zero spring binding. :)

This is a great forum...thanks for your help with this! I'd buy you guys a beer if you're ever in my area...
 

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I see the last post was almost 1 year ago. Just got my Ohlins R&T on my freight forwarder in Miami, should be getting them here in Lima in a couple of weeks.

I'm. Really excited to try them out, but I want to track the car stock before mounting them in to appreciate the difference.

I'll take all stick measurements before installing them
 

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FWIW, I tracked the car and then was like "oh, I need me some Ohlins!" :). Seriously though, I felt that the rebound from the stock suspension was NOT confidence-inspiring. Last weekend at Homestead, I set them to "1F2R", and they were awesome.
 

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Would Ohlins be ok in a daily driver? What setting would you normally apply for a DD? Sorry if the question(s) are to broad to answer.
I've read in this and other forums the ride quality of the Ohlins R&T for daily driving is great, much better than stock. You just need to adjust the number of clicks to more than 22 and you are good to go
 

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I've read in this and other forums the ride quality of the Ohlins R&T for daily driving is great, much better than stock. You just need to adjust the number of clicks to more than 22 and you are good to go
I drive around at about 7-10 clicks, but down here in Florida, the roads are pretty good and not too many potholes (or at least where I drive). I started at 15-17 and it was very nice but wanted less rebound for early morning spirited driving. I never even tried anything > 17 clicks.
 

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lower #/clicks = lower ride/suspension?
Nope. The lower # of clicks, the less rebound.
So your car feels more forgivable and comfortable with a stiffer suspension setting?
Sorry, didn't mean to be ambiguous...
At 15 clicks, it was definitely more comfortable but not floaty at all. The wife said she enjoyed the ride much better than the stock.. at 15. But the roads here are pretty smooth, and we both work out of the house and even though its our daily driver (1 car family now), I tend to do most errands, and enjoy the less rebound of the lower # of clicks. There are some trade-offs going lower # of clicks for more control (less rebound), but because of the Ohlins dual-valve (I'm guessing) the comfort was much less affected. so yes, less comfort with the stiffer settings, but not losing as much as you'd think. Unlike say Bilsteins, the knobs on the Ohlins change the rebound and not the compression, so its... different. (I don't know if this will help anyone or just confuse folks)
 

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Would Ohlins be ok in a daily driver? What setting would you normally apply for a DD? Sorry if the question(s) are to broad to answer.
The majority our Ohlins kits go on daily drivers and occasional track cars. We have kits tailored to improve ride quality further and kits designed for more track oriented use. One thing we hear often is how much better Ohlins ride compared to stock.

Couple of points about Ohlins R&Ts:
Ride height is decoupled from spring pre-load. This allows a lot more freedom for height adjustment without massive pre-load or springs falling out of their perches.
The adjuster is for compression AND rebound in a single knob. It's a bleeder in the head of the shock shaft that allows flow to bypass the shims and DFV.
The DFV (dual flow valve) is an alternative flow path for very high shaft speeds. This really helps with ride comfort by allowing additional flow in hard impacts.

In general you'll probably find a setting you like best and leave it there. The base valving is really good for the spring rates and handles/rides quite nice. You can fine tune the ride to your likes and if you go to the track, stiffen it up a bit. On our endurance race cars we almost never change the settings on these; hot, cold, rain, dry.. They just work really well and don't need to be fiddled with.

Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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The majority our Ohlins kits go on daily drivers and occasional track cars. We have kits tailored to improve ride quality further and kits designed for more track oriented use. One thing we hear often is how much better Ohlins rides compared to stock.

Couple of points about Ohlins R&Ts:
Ride height is decoupled from spring pre-load. This allows a lot more freedom for height adjustment without massive pre-load or springs falling out of their perches.
The adjuster is for compression AND rebound in a single knob. It's a bleeder in the head of the shock shaft that allows flow to bypass the shims and DFV.
The DFV (dual flow valve) is an alternative flow path for very high shaft speeds. This really helps with ride comfort by allowing additional flow in hard impacts.

In general you'll probably find a setting you like best and leave it there. The base valving is really good for the spring rates and handles/rides quite nice. You can fine tune the ride to your likes and if you go to the track, stiffen it up a bit. On our endurance race cars we almost never change the settings on these; hot, cold, rain, dry.. They just work really well and don't need to be fiddled with.

Let me know if you have any questions.
Joshua, thanks. I saw a previous post somewhere on here asking about increased servicing needs vs stock suspension (I’m in a base 718C with 18 inch tires), is this likely to be true or would a DD setting be fine for normal service interval needs? Thanks again!
 
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