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Short version is the R&Ts have a long service life. We put several hundred race hours on ours between rebuilds and they'll easily go 40-50k miles between services. All shocks need to be serviced, most manufactures don't mention that though.


Joshua, thanks. I saw a previous post somewhere on here asking about increased servicing needs vs stock suspension (I’m in a base 718C with 18 inch tires), is this likely to be true or would a DD setting be fine for normal service interval needs? Thanks again!
 

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For those of us interested in future purchases....where are the adjustment knobs on the Ohlins? I assume the fronts are up top and can be accessed by removing the top plastic plate that covers the battery, brake master, etc. But what about the rears? How do you get to those to make quick changes if you're going to the track?
 

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They are on the bottom of the strut, front & rear and require nothing to be removed for adjustments. You just have to cozy up to the pavement and reach your arm around the wheel. The The Ohlins are inverted shocks, which puts the "top" of the shaft on the the bottom of the strut.

Once you find your sweet spot, these won't require a lot of fuss. On a track like COTA I may turn up the dampening but I typically run the same "street" settings on the track. Very forgiving on the curbs and lots of gription.


For those of us interested in future purchases....where are the adjustment knobs on the Ohlins? I assume the fronts are up top and can be accessed by removing the top plastic plate that covers the battery, brake master, etc. But what about the rears? How do you get to those to make quick changes if you're going to the track?
 

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Next week trackday will be raced on stock non-PASM suspension, I'll install them afterwards along with corner balancing in preparation for next month trackday.

I'll give you my opinion and review after each trackday and will compare them agains the OEM suspension on both, street and track. I'm mostrly intertested in the comfort level on uneven roads and pothole absortion.
 

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Thanks Joshua:
I remember I've read the in this forum the recommeded settings instead of the ones detailed on the Ohlins installation manual. I plan to use the car for street use most of the time and track it once a month, my city has way too many speed bumps so I would like to lower the car as minimum as possible without sacrificing performance.

Would you suggest the recommended Ohlins meassures?
 

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I'd start in the middle for valving and adjust to your preferences. For ride height the Ohlins suggested settings will get you -20MM on a non-PASM car. Keep the default spring preload and you can easily raise the height 10+ mm via the height adjuster ring.

This is all assuming you are running OTS springs.
 

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Preload and ride height are completely independent. Do the standard preload (5mm) and run the height adjust ring down 10mm further than prescribed (35mm) for the front. 2mm preload and 115mm height for the rear.
 

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Yes, the Tarret 31mm Front:
You'll need these on the front:

Tarret 25.4 Rear:
Not require for swaybar adjustment but needed for corner balance:

The car will work great with the stock bars. These will flatten it out in the turns and give you the ability to adjust understeer/oversteer more with the bar settings.

@[email protected] do you recommend any swaybar upgrades when going from the base suspension to Ohlins for periodic (5-6 times a year) track usage?
 
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