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I am thinking about tracking my 718 and have a few questions for those who do. I currently track my 987 with PCA in their blue solo group (so I'm not in the crazy fast red or black groups).

Where do you get brake parts from - I usually go with Pelican Parts, but they don't seem to have parts for the 718. I don't need anything special - just replacement stock parts.

Unlike the 987, the front brakes on my 718 don't have the quick change pins. It looks like you have to take the entire caliper off to change brake pads. Is this correct? If so how difficult is it to do this?

Does having the electronic hand brake present any issues with changing rear pads or rotors?

Do the turbos have any issues with overheating?

Thanks for any answers or other advice.
 

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i'll answer what i can.

i use stock brake pads. haven't had to change the fronts yet but the rears were toast after one season due to torque vectoring. picked up a set from the dealer. i know hawk makes some pads that fit our cars.

no issues with the electronic hand brake.

no issues with overheating so far with my cayman s. i've done road courses on 95+ degree days and ran around the oval at daytona. the fans will run for quite some time after you stop though.
 

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Try SunCoast parts for brakes. They have a decent amount of options from stock to upgrade. I have not done a price comparison yet so I'm not sure of the final cost. I have not had anything happen with the turbo when I tracked my 718. The only issue I ran into the whole time was related to the TPMS. Dealership SA told me to just follow it versus using a guage or guage on a pump.
 

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Try SunCoast parts for brakes. They have a decent amount of options from stock to upgrade. I have not done a price comparison yet so I'm not sure of the final cost. I have not had anything happen with the turbo when I tracked my 718. The only issue I ran into the whole time was related to the TPMS. Dealership SA told me to just follow it versus using a guage or guage on a pump.
What was the TPMS issue?

I've found that it is only accurate to within about 2 psi. So a proper tire gauge would be better IMO.
 

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What was the TPMS issue?

I've found that it is only accurate to within about 2 psi. So a proper tire gauge would be better IMO.
Stick reader showed me 29/30 (front/rear), air pump showed around the same, TPMS gave me -9 and -10. Dealership told me to trust only the TPMS and not the gauge. Even if this means filling air to show 9 or 10 over the recommended reading from the gauge. Weird right?

The reasoning they gave me was that the TPMS and onboard comp reads the pressures, elevation, temp ETC. Yet the Tesla we have shows the TPMS reading to be exactly the same as the stick and air pressure pump.;)
 

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The TPMS *should* be accurate to within one or two pounds but a good dial gauge will better that easily--and it's the same gauge for each tyre!

Note that Porsche says the TPMS is NOT for filling the tyres but is designed to show changes that need attention. I think your dealer needs remedial reading lessons.:(

Maybe your computer hasn't "learned" the tyres you have on. There's a section in the manual that tells you how to do that—9 or 10 lbs is too far out to be be normal.
 

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The reasoning they gave me was that the TPMS and onboard comp reads the pressures, elevation, temp ETC. Yet the Tesla we have shows the TPMS reading to be exactly the same as the stick and air pressure pump.;)
Boy did they try to give you a snake oil line. A manual tire gauge reads actual pressure -- air temp, tire temp, air density (i.e., altitude), etc. has already combined to provide that figure.

Manual gauge is best. Always. I prefer a brass dial gauge for accuracy, but a stick gauge'll do in a pinch ... ;)
 

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The TPMS *should* be accurate to within one or two pounds but a good dial gauge will better that easily--and it's the same gauge for each tyre!

Note that Porsche says the TPMS is NOT for filling the tyres but is designed to show changes that need attention. I think your dealer needs remedial reading lessons.:(

Maybe your computer hasn't "learned" the tyres you have on. There's a section in the manual that tells you how to do that—9 or 10 lbs is too far out to be be normal.
Weird thing is I went in there and selected the 19 summer which I have on. Still gave me the errors. I just went over 2K today for miles and I doubt it would even take that long to learn them.
 

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Boy did they try to give you a snake oil line. A manual tire gauge reads actual pressure -- air temp, tire temp, air density (i.e., altitude), etc. has already combined to provide that figure.

Manual gauge is best. Always. I prefer a brass dial gauge for accuracy, but a stick gauge'll do in a pinch ... ;)
Exactly... I mean... I may be young, but not an idiot. Either way, I'm going to see what happens in a week and then make a final attempt to get it fixed after my next track session if it does it again.
 

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Thanks for the information!

Did you get a separate set or wheels/tires for the track? If so what tires did you go with?
yes i have a set of track wheels. they are 18" volk wheels and nitto nt01 tires
(see pic for them on the car)
 

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