The challenge is where to mount the control boxes(2) and how to route wires to front and rear bumpers, and into pass compartment .
These directions assume you have 12v wiring skill.
Left=driver’s side ( USA style)
Front bumper: first, remove front bumper (directions are plentiful,elsewhere)
Place your receiver(s) in the two grilles for the radiators. My receivers fit in between the horizontal grill bars. Mount them in the inboard edges of these grills, to minimize disturbance of air flow to radiators. I used high strength double sticky tape, and a heat glue gun. You might need to be creative.
Hard to see the receivers in between the grill bars, sorry for poor photos
The wires can be easily routed right along the two wire harnesses that are already attached to the inside of the bumper, leading back towards the rear of the bumper, on each side . And you'll need to install a connector/joint in your wires to allow future bumper removal. The Porsche wires already separate w connectors, hidden in front of the wheel well liners (you opened one or two connectors when you removed the bumper)
On the left side, there is easy access from the location of those connectors to the battery compartment. Replacing the wheel well liner will cover and protect Porsche’s and your wires.
On the right, there is a foam piece blocking that entryway to the battery compartment. But it's easy to squeeze your wires through the small gap in front of it, where other wires already pass through. Reove the black foam, run wires as in photo,then replace foam
See my hand with my wire plus porsche original wiring adjacent , after foam piece removed
To Mount the control boxes in battery compartment:
I used ¼ in plywood , which I screwed to an unused threaded hole at the left side shock tower. On it i mounted both control boxes and a terminal strip for connections
To Run Wires from the battery compartment to passenger footwell
In the firewall separating the battery compartment from the footwell: Find the approx 4 in diameter rubber grommet, filled with about 1.5inch thick bundle of innumerable wires.
The grommet is on the far left side of the car, between the brake master cylinder and the fender, a few inches below the top of the firewall, easily visible even though the view is partially blocked . This grommet has plenty of space that is not filled with wires, and is your easiest route to penetrate the firewall .
Overview
Closer look
Best location to penetrate grommet: From inside the batt compartment, looking towards the rear of the car, the best location to penetrate the grommet is through the circular convexity, about 11:00. Test this location by having a friend press an awl against the grommet. Press to dent, but don’t penetrate. Press in the space between the wires and the perimeter of the grommet. While you lie on the floor of the pass compartment, look up to the inside-side of the grommet, and make sure you can see the depression of the rubber made by the awl . You need to be sure the awl does not enter the mass of wires and create a possible catastrophe of multiple shorted wires . Once you are positive that the awl location is clear , have your friend push harder on the awl to puncture the rubber. I used a razor knife to enlarge the opening to about a half inch slit, then fished my wires through it, then covered it w silicone sealer to protect from weather getting to the footwell.
See where I have punctured it with a brown wooden awl, with a thread thru the needle :
https://i.imgur.com/RjUMFBi.jpg
Closer look at grommet, now with needle of awl penetrating grommet. Awl handle has been removed. And two black threads that the awl pushed thru the grommet
I attached the thread to a string then pulled ot thru, then to a rope and pulled that thru. The rope then pulled my wires thru the grommet
This is the rope :
Power supply: the driver’s footwell fuse box has many unused fuse spaces. Most, if not all, are
12v+ when key is on, and off when key off, exactly what we need for laser/radar detectors. Insert the proper size tap into the fuse space. You can see that one part of the fuse space is empty, the other part has the jack to supply switched 12v+. You will need an inline fuse, see picture. Two female connectors fit on the legs of the fuse then cover with heat shrink.
https://i.imgur.com/XjxsV8L.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/J6N5SFz.jpg
Or you may find some proprietary products designed to be fuse and connector together .
Wire routing for the 12 V+ is behind the carpet surrounding the fuse box, up to grommet (red in picture)
In This picture, my fingers are behind the removable wall carpet,pulled to get the wire routed behind the carpet
https://i.imgur.com/j9VWjL0.jpg
Ground access: the obvious are not grounds. the alum holder for the obd connector, the large stud above the gas pedal. Easier to use a ground in the battery compartment (and then you have one less wire to send thru grommet.) The nearby horn(?) is attached to the rear wall of the frunk and the attachment screw serves as a convenient ground.
Rear bumper wiring will be in next write up
These directions assume you have 12v wiring skill.
Left=driver’s side ( USA style)
Front bumper: first, remove front bumper (directions are plentiful,elsewhere)
Place your receiver(s) in the two grilles for the radiators. My receivers fit in between the horizontal grill bars. Mount them in the inboard edges of these grills, to minimize disturbance of air flow to radiators. I used high strength double sticky tape, and a heat glue gun. You might need to be creative.
Hard to see the receivers in between the grill bars, sorry for poor photos
The wires can be easily routed right along the two wire harnesses that are already attached to the inside of the bumper, leading back towards the rear of the bumper, on each side . And you'll need to install a connector/joint in your wires to allow future bumper removal. The Porsche wires already separate w connectors, hidden in front of the wheel well liners (you opened one or two connectors when you removed the bumper)
On the left side, there is easy access from the location of those connectors to the battery compartment. Replacing the wheel well liner will cover and protect Porsche’s and your wires.
On the right, there is a foam piece blocking that entryway to the battery compartment. But it's easy to squeeze your wires through the small gap in front of it, where other wires already pass through. Reove the black foam, run wires as in photo,then replace foam
See my hand with my wire plus porsche original wiring adjacent , after foam piece removed
To Mount the control boxes in battery compartment:
I used ¼ in plywood , which I screwed to an unused threaded hole at the left side shock tower. On it i mounted both control boxes and a terminal strip for connections
To Run Wires from the battery compartment to passenger footwell
In the firewall separating the battery compartment from the footwell: Find the approx 4 in diameter rubber grommet, filled with about 1.5inch thick bundle of innumerable wires.
The grommet is on the far left side of the car, between the brake master cylinder and the fender, a few inches below the top of the firewall, easily visible even though the view is partially blocked . This grommet has plenty of space that is not filled with wires, and is your easiest route to penetrate the firewall .
Overview
Closer look
Best location to penetrate grommet: From inside the batt compartment, looking towards the rear of the car, the best location to penetrate the grommet is through the circular convexity, about 11:00. Test this location by having a friend press an awl against the grommet. Press to dent, but don’t penetrate. Press in the space between the wires and the perimeter of the grommet. While you lie on the floor of the pass compartment, look up to the inside-side of the grommet, and make sure you can see the depression of the rubber made by the awl . You need to be sure the awl does not enter the mass of wires and create a possible catastrophe of multiple shorted wires . Once you are positive that the awl location is clear , have your friend push harder on the awl to puncture the rubber. I used a razor knife to enlarge the opening to about a half inch slit, then fished my wires through it, then covered it w silicone sealer to protect from weather getting to the footwell.
See where I have punctured it with a brown wooden awl, with a thread thru the needle :
https://i.imgur.com/RjUMFBi.jpg
Closer look at grommet, now with needle of awl penetrating grommet. Awl handle has been removed. And two black threads that the awl pushed thru the grommet
I attached the thread to a string then pulled ot thru, then to a rope and pulled that thru. The rope then pulled my wires thru the grommet
This is the rope :
Power supply: the driver’s footwell fuse box has many unused fuse spaces. Most, if not all, are
12v+ when key is on, and off when key off, exactly what we need for laser/radar detectors. Insert the proper size tap into the fuse space. You can see that one part of the fuse space is empty, the other part has the jack to supply switched 12v+. You will need an inline fuse, see picture. Two female connectors fit on the legs of the fuse then cover with heat shrink.
https://i.imgur.com/XjxsV8L.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/J6N5SFz.jpg
Or you may find some proprietary products designed to be fuse and connector together .
Wire routing for the 12 V+ is behind the carpet surrounding the fuse box, up to grommet (red in picture)
In This picture, my fingers are behind the removable wall carpet,pulled to get the wire routed behind the carpet
https://i.imgur.com/j9VWjL0.jpg
Ground access: the obvious are not grounds. the alum holder for the obd connector, the large stud above the gas pedal. Easier to use a ground in the battery compartment (and then you have one less wire to send thru grommet.) The nearby horn(?) is attached to the rear wall of the frunk and the attachment screw serves as a convenient ground.
Rear bumper wiring will be in next write up
