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2022 GT4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to have to do spark plugs soon as I'm approaching 30k miles. In looking at videos of the older flat 6 cars it seems you take off the wheel, remove a panel in the wheel well and have reasonable access. Has anyone done spark plugs on a 718 yet? Just want to make sure there aren't any surprises.

2 less cylinders so should be 33% easier :LOL:
 

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@faizaan2000

I recently starting investigating the spark plug replacement.

I still have about 13,000 more miles before I have to replace my vehicle's spark plugs.

Attached is some of the documentation I found regarding the spark plugs for the 718.

As usual, special tools are needed. The documentation states that the spark plug recess is slightly angled. Also, different plugs are used for the 2.0L vs 2.5L engines.

Not sure if any of this information is different than the 981 cars or not.

My 718 will be visiting the race shop in 2 weeks, and i'll ask them about replacing the spark plugs while i'm there.

The race shop I use is usually very helpful and friendly. They know they are going to get a solid pay day every time I visit. ;)

I'll let you know if they can provide me with any useful tips, instructions, or information.

If you've already finished the spark plug replacement, let me know how it went.

Thank you.
 

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Thanks, this is super helpful! Looking like something the shop is gonna do for me, but let me know how it goes.
The guys at my shop haven't changed the spark plugs on a 718 yet.

I read on another thread that you just completed your 30,000 mile service.

How did the spark plug replacement go?

Do you have any tips or advice you could share?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I needed a track inspection so had the 30k mile service done for me at the same time instead of DIYing. Spark plugs, oil change, and track inspection for ~$550 (independent Porsche specialist) which I thought was super reasonable. Dealer quoted me over $1600 for the same thing minus track inspection.

He mentioned it was a bit of a pain, had to remove some plastic shrouds and showed me the old plugs, definitely need a special tool to get them out. It was his first 718 spark plug as well but he rebuilds air cooled 911 engines for a living so I figured it was not gonna be an issue. Everything was done same day.
 

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I completed the spark plug replacement on my 718 Boxster (base) this weekend.

I used a lift and removed both rear wheels to access the ignition coils & plugs (2 on each side of car/engine).

On the driver side, you can access and remove the ignition coils & plugs by only removing the wheel and nothing else.

On the passenger side, there’s a small heat shield that must be detached by loosening 3 bolts before you can access the 2 ignition coils & plugs.

My opinion is that you must have a magnetic swivel spark plug socket (14mm, 12 point) for the removal and installation of the plugs. I don’t think I could have completed this task without the magnetic & swivel features. Here’s a link to the one I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RR84RXB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I forgot to write down all the socket sizes for the removal of the screws/bolts on the ignition coils & heat shield, but they were all common Torx, E-Torx, and/or metric sizes.

Your working space is fairly restricted inside the rear wheel area, so it also helps to have wrenches/drivers with different handle lengths and a few different socket extension lengths. A flexible extension is also helpful for installing the new front spark plug on the passenger side.

FYI, the most difficult plug to access is the front plug on the passenger side. I ended up using a wrench with a swivel extension along with the magnetic swivel spark plug socket (yes, 2 total swivels) to remove and tighten down this plug.

I read that the torque is typically around 22ft-lbs for the installation of new Porsche spark plugs, but I was unable to get my torque wrench inside the work space very easily.

Once I started tightening down the plugs, I felt that 22ft-lbs might be too much and didn’t want to risk over tightening the plugs. I tightened down all the plugs as much as I could with the socket wrench and would estimate around 15ft-lbs if I had to guess.

As usual, make sure to use some anti-sieze on the threads of the plug and dielectric grease on the inside of the ignition coil where it connects to the spark plug.

I hope the above information will help some of you 718 forum members.

If you have access to a lift, I think this is a reasonable DIY service task.
 

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Wondering why a 12pt as opposed to a 6pt?

"bi-hexagonal socket" hmmmm. sounds expensive... ;)
I am not a master mechanic, but I suspect the 12pt plug is used in order to better prevent stripping of the socket end of the plug and/or to prevent cross threading during the installation of the plug.

Essentially, I think it's easier to verify that you have the socket properly secured on the plug with 12pt vs 6pt. It only takes a very slight twist left and right to feel with the 12pt socket is properly engaged/installed on the plug end.
 

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What part are the spark plugs? From the pictures online they look like NGK but I can't tell what model. Has anybody seen them listed for a reasonable price? I saw $66 somewhere for 4 plugs which seems exorbitant to me.
 

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What part are the spark plugs? From the pictures online they look like NGK but I can't tell what model. Has anybody seen them listed for a reasonable price? I saw $66 somewhere for 4 plugs which seems exorbitant to me.
I use FCP Euro for every part that I can. Here's a link to the plugs for the 718 base car. Please remember that the S and GTS models use different plugs than the base model.

 

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I completed the spark plug replacement on my 718 Boxster (base) this weekend.

I used a lift and removed both rear wheels to access the ignition coils & plugs (2 on each side of car/engine).

On the driver side, you can access and remove the ignition coils & plugs by only removing the wheel and nothing else.

On the passenger side, there’s a small heat shield that must be detached by loosening 3 bolts before you can access the 2 ignition coils & plugs.

My opinion is that you must have a magnetic swivel spark plug socket (14mm, 12 point) for the removal and installation of the plugs. I don’t think I could have completed this task without the magnetic & swivel features. Here’s a link to the one I used:

Amazon.com: ARES 11000 - 14mm Thin Wall Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket - 3/8-Inch Drive 12-Point Spark Plug Socket - Walls 2mm Thinner Than Standard Spark Plug Sockets: Automotive

I forgot to write down all the socket sizes for the removal of the screws/bolts on the ignition coils & heat shield, but they were all common Torx, E-Torx, and/or metric sizes.

Your working space is fairly restricted inside the rear wheel area, so it also helps to have wrenches/drivers with different handle lengths and a few different socket extension lengths. A flexible extension is also helpful for installing the new front spark plug on the passenger side.

FYI, the most difficult plug to access is the front plug on the passenger side. I ended up using a wrench with a swivel extension along with the magnetic swivel spark plug socket (yes, 2 total swivels) to remove and tighten down this plug.

I read that the torque is typically around 22ft-lbs for the installation of new Porsche spark plugs, but I was unable to get my torque wrench inside the work space very easily.

Once I started tightening down the plugs, I felt that 22ft-lbs might be too much and didn’t want to risk over tightening the plugs. I tightened down all the plugs as much as I could with the socket wrench and would estimate around 15ft-lbs if I had to guess.

As usual, make sure to use some anti-sieze on the threads of the plug and dielectric grease on the inside of the ignition coil where it connects to the spark plug.

I hope the above information will help some of you 718 forum members.

If you have access to a lift, I think this is a reasonable DIY service task.
Thanks for the helpful information on the spark plug diy. did you find that the length of the extension on hthe spark plug socket was a good fit? I am trying to decide if should buy the socket with a swivel or a socket with a swivel and extension like the one you bought. Thanks for the help Jim
 

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Thanks for the helpful information on the spark plug diy. did you find that the length of the extension on hthe spark plug socket was a good fit? I am trying to decide if should buy the socket with a swivel or a socket with a swivel and extension like the one you bought. Thanks for the help Jim
I bought the swivel socket listed on the Amazon link & it worked fine, but you will also need an extension with that swivel socket in order to get deep enough to remove and re-install the spark plugs.

Originally, I thought about buying a longer length swivel socket that included a "built in" extension, but my preference was to add my own extension length(s) in lieu of having an extension built into the swivel socket.

You can probably still get the job done using the swivel socket with an extension "built in", but I wanted full control over the extension length and didn't want to deal with any extra length that I couldn't remove.

Make sure you have a couple different lengths of flexible extensions to choose from too. They came in very handy for this task.

I'm at about 55k miles now and getting ready to do my 2nd spark plug change next month, so I'll try to take some pictures of the spark plug removal/installation this time around.
 

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FYI. I used an E10 torx socket to remove the 3 bolts securing the plate that covers the coil packs/plugs on the passenger side of the engine.

Then you have to "snake" the plate out through the bottom to get it out of the way. It's a tight fit and takes a little work to take the plate out and then put it back in.

Here's a picture of the plate.
Automotive tire Wood Automotive design Helmet Motor vehicle
 
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