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HPDE tracking brake wear Pagid Yellow vs stock. Tracked 6 days on original Porsche pads. Tracked 9 days on Pagid Yellows (RS29). The stock pads were not too bad, reasonable stopping w/no fade. The Pagid's were a bit stronger. After proper bedding the Pagids did not squeal during town driving. The stock pads were easier on the rotors. Cost for both axles with shipping: Pagid $710, Porsche $330. Cost per track day: Pagid $79, stock $55. My track braking pattern is probably on the moderate to sometimes aggressive side.
 

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Interesting. The stock pads are pretty good. With the Pagids being twice as expensive they should last twice as long otherwise they are not worth it in my opinion. I use the stock pads on my 2008 CS and they are fine. I hit the ABS in some corners so I don't need more stopping power. Perhaps if i had dedicated track tires things might be different, but with standard road tires I don't think I'd get much from Pagids.
 

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HPDE tracking brake wear Pagid Yellow vs stock. Tracked 6 days on original Porsche pads. Tracked 9 days on Pagid Yellows (RS29). The stock pads were not too bad, reasonable stopping w/no fade. The Pagid's were a bit stronger. After proper bedding the Pagids did not squeal during town driving. The stock pads were easier on the rotors. Cost for both axles with shipping: Pagid $710, Porsche $330. Cost per track day: Pagid $79, stock $55. My track braking pattern is probably on the moderate to sometimes aggressive side.
Thanks, these are helpful data points. Would be great to get list of similar experiences in one place for reference, along perhaps with other comparative consumable(s) e.g. brake rotor sizes, principally the GiroDisk 350mm vs. stock 330mm fronts, and ditto "big brake kits" pad areas, for those track junkies inclined to going all out and change brake calipers to get more swept area under a brake pad.

BTW, anyone have the stock brake rotor "thickness" and recommended minimum thickness handy for the front & rear rotors? I've tried a quick google search, but not seeing much other than minimum wear postings about 29mm is getting too thin. Found a page for the 987, Porsche Workshop Manuals > Cayman S (987) F6-3.4L (2008) > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component Information > Specifications

Brake Rotor/Disc: Specifications

Brake Disc


Brake disc thickness, new (front) ............................................................................................................................................................................ 28 mm
Brake disc thickness, new (rear) .............................................................................................................................................................................. 24 mm
Minimum brake disc thickness after machining, front .......................................................................................................................................... 26.6 mm
Minimum brake disc thickness after machining, rear ........................................................................................................................................... 22.6 mm
Brake disc wear limit, front .................................................................................................................................................................................. 26.0 mm
Brake disc wear limit, rear ................................................................................................................................................................................... 22.0 mm


but the site doesn't carry the 718 Shop Manual. And as for the "lucky" GT4 crowd,,,, I find they get " The Cayman GT4 uses heavy duty 380 x 34 mm ventilated front & 380 x 30 mm rear brake discs similar to what is equipped on a Porsche 991 GT3. " Makes us/me on the GTS F4T side feel a bit inadequate :)

HTH
 

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I've been running stock pads for my HPDE days. I consider myself fairly aggressive on the brakes during these events. I've found the stock pads to be quite good in terms of stopping power and wear. For me, I don't see a need to go with more track-focused pads. Maybe if I was a better driver?

I also was unable to find anything definitive on minimum rotor thickness.
 

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So.

I was pushing the card HARD this past weekend at COTA.

I went through an entire brand new set of fronts in a 3day track weekend. I used to get 2 weekends + a fair bit of street driving on a set.

I'm gonna need to upgrade, lol.

The braking itself was fine, no fade at all. But that wear.
 

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So.

I was pushing the card HARD this past weekend at COTA.

I went through an entire brand new set of fronts in a 3day track weekend. I used to get 2 weekends + a fair bit of street driving on a set.

I'm gonna need to upgrade, lol.

The braking itself was fine, no fade at all. But that wear.
You want to wear your pads or your rotors? In my opinion, if the performance of the OEM parts are meeting your needs, the prices of the OEM parts are surprisingly reasonable (especially compared to my previous Audi RS 5).
 

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So.

I was pushing the card HARD this past weekend at COTA.

I went through an entire brand new set of fronts in a 3day track weekend. I used to get 2 weekends + a fair bit of street driving on a set.

I'm gonna need to upgrade, lol.

The braking itself was fine, no fade at all. But that wear.
Are you using the stock brake rotors? 2nd one thing to keep in mind about pad wear, I believe like tires etc., its not a linear process. As you get down to the last 1/2 or 1/3rd pad, heat transfer and other things go "UP" a lot faster than they do over the first half or 2/3rds of the pads life.

3rd, an aside, haven't seen mention of on the forum here, but do you know of anyone using titanium heat shields to supplement heat transfer protection? I used to have a set for my 981 & thought the shields seemed to help keep heat out of the brake pistons & fluid. Cheers
 

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Yep, I had the heat shields on my GTS. Sold them (along with the partially used pads) to another forum member.

Which reminds me, I need to get them for my GT4!
 

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Yep, I had the heat shields on my GTS. Sold them (along with the partially used pads) to another forum member.

Which reminds me, I need to get them for my GT4!
FWIW, I had to have a local racing shop, 3R Racing fabricate a couple of sets of the shields as at the time I couldn't find anyone else selling them. 3R used a set of front & rear pads as a template for the shields.
 

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FWIW, I had to have a local racing shop, 3R Racing fabricate a couple of sets of the shields as at the time I couldn't find anyone else selling them. 3R used a set of front & rear pads as a template for the shields.
I did not know these were a thing.... interesting!

@autobahn Yeah, street pads at COTA don't last long. I had a set grind all the way down to the backing plates over the course of a day.
 

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I did not know these were a thing.... interesting!

@autobahn Yeah, street pads at COTA don't last long. I had a set grind all the way down to the backing plates over the course of a day.
It's an "easy" or at least easier incremental step, see Seine Systems > Ti Brake Shield for example, similar to & along the lines, but less expensive than going to GiroDisk's bigger rotor(s) with spacers swap, before undertaking things like replacing the brake caliper piston with Ti pucks; or putting in a whole new brake system like the Suncoast Coast guys are doing; or getting one of the Brembo, AP Racing or other big brake kit.

I'd forgot Ti also comes in different "flavors" or "grades" per the Seine Systems info page. Helps address one of two brake problems, keeping heat out of brake fluid. For the other, @autobahn's endurance issues, I think one has to start looking for more consumables material, e.g. bigger, beefier disks and pads, which is $lippery $lope, and overkill for most - but hey, pretty cool stuff . . . . unless of course someone comes up with a way to add an additional, easy, cheap +RELIABLE 100-150 bhp to the car :)

By that time, I should'a just bit the bullet and bought a new GT4 for the $$$$ that would be going into a bigger brake system. . . . This ignores the mysteries & conundrums of those of us who have a PCCB system on their 718.

Cheers
 

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It's an "easy" or at least easier incremental step, see Seine Systems > Ti Brake Shield for example, similar to & along the lines, but less expensive than going to GiroDisk's bigger rotor(s) with spacers swap, before undertaking things like replacing the brake caliper piston with Ti pucks; or putting in a whole new brake system like the Suncoast Coast guys are doing; or getting one of the Brembo, AP Racing or other big brake kit.

I'd forgot Ti also comes in different "flavors" or "grades" per the Seine Systems info page. Helps address one of two brake problems, keeping heat out of brake fluid. For the other, @autobahn's endurance issues, I think one has to start looking for more consumables material, e.g. bigger, beefier disks and pads, which is $lippery $lope, and overkill for most - but hey, pretty cool stuff . . . . unless of course someone comes up with a way to add an additional, easy, cheap +RELIABLE 100-150 bhp to the car :)

By that time, I should'a just bit the bullet and bought a new GT4 for the $$$$ that would be going into a bigger brake system. . . . This ignores the mysteries & conundrums of those of us who have a PCCB system on their 718.

Cheers
Just putting on some pagid 29s isn't that much money....a couple hundred bucks over stock pads? Stock rotors are so cheap, it takes about 6 pairs of them to warrant giros, and if you get them from fcp euro....just keep trading them in.

The GT4 pads don't really last any longer....they're a bit bigger, so you don't have to brake as hard, but at COTA you're not going to run stock gt4 pads either. So you can spend the extra 20 grand on a GT4, and then still spend as much money on pads :)
 

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Just putting on some pagid 29s isn't that much money....a couple hundred bucks over stock pads? . . .
All true. I guess the burr under my saddle, is the inconvenience of putting, in the past, sometimes a lot of time, trouble, effort and investment to get to a the track event, only to have some "simple" element, i.e. brake fluid or pads or rotors, or tires for that matter quit on you, and the rest of the weekend is compromised trying to re-bleed etc.

When one doesn't have, or isn't using a tow truck and trailer with a garage full of tools & supplies to address the failures, it puts a real crimp on the arrive & drive fun.

Nothing to do with brakes, but I find the threads on the intermittent power loss mystery a bit of a concern too. I've gotten to that stage where a part of the fun and adventure is NOT trying to repair or fix something on the car that ought to be working. Best,
 

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All true. I guess the burr under my saddle, is the inconvenience of putting, in the past, sometimes a lot of time, trouble, effort and investment to get to a the track event, only to have some "simple" element, i.e. brake fluid or pads or rotors, or tires for that matter quit on you, and the rest of the weekend is compromised trying to re-bleed etc.

When one doesn't have, or isn't using a tow truck and trailer with a garage full of tools & supplies to address the failures, it puts a real crimp on the arrive & drive fun.

Nothing to do with brakes, but I find the threads on the intermittent power loss mystery a bit of a concern too. I've gotten to that stage where a part of the fun and adventure is NOT trying to repair or fix something on the car that ought to be working. Best,
I think based on another post, you're in the Denver area like me. I'm actually the new tech inspection chair for the Rocky Mountain Region of PCA, and for our HPDEs (and associated tech inspection requirements), that's why we look at brake pads, rotors, fluid, tires, wheels, etc. Prime example is that the national minimum standard is having brake fluid no more than 12 months old. It's not a hard requirement, but our local standard is 6 months.

If you do happen to have an issue, there are lots of helpful and friendly people there that can help. Particularly the ones that do trailer their cars and do have a trailer full of tools :)

On-Site Tires (one of our sponsors) is typically also there to help with any tire issues, up to and including replacement tires.

The intermittent power loss, are you referring to the S models going into limp mode? If so, it's not a mystery per-say. The issue is the turbo servo motor does not get enough airflow and overheats. It puts the car in limp mode to protect itself. Porsche is aware of the issue, but they have not chosen to develop a fix (at least so far). This only affects the S models, not the Base or GTS.

There are some things you can do to help mitigate the issue (third radiator, deep sump oil pan), but I'm not aware of any sure fire fix. I have seen this affect 718 S models at High Plains.

See you out there!
-Scott
 

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Another thing is some simple upgrades/buys make all of this stuff easy to deal with. Buy a $60 brake flush system and you can replace your fluid in about an hour. Spend 360 on brake caliper studs and wheel studs and you can change our your pads in less than an hour.
I spend about a total of 1.5 hours track prepping my car with these little upgrades and I can flip back and forth to stock super easily.
 

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Spend 360 on brake caliper studs and wheel studs and you can change our your pads in less than an hour.
I spend about a total of 1.5 hours track prepping my car with these little upgrades and I can flip back and forth to stock super easily.
Can you explain the brake caliper studs thing and how that helps with pad changes?
 

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Can you explain the brake caliper studs thing and how that helps with pad changes?
Sure! The calipers are held in the front by these 2 super long torx 55 bolts. They're steel and the wheel hub is aluminum, so it's easy to wreck your wheel hubs by either reusing the steel bolts, or by cross threading them, They're also super long, and just take forever to screw and unscrew. The caliper bolts place permanent bolts into the wheel hub, and then your caliper slides on and off of those. They stick out maybe like a cm from the caliper, so it's just a few turn of a nut to get them in place.

I know that you're in Austin, and I'm going to be changing all my track stuff onto my car tomorrow; so if you're interested in seeing everything disassembled you can stop by :)
 

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I think based on another post, you're in the Denver area like me. I'm actually the new tech inspection chair for the Rocky Mountain Region of PCA, and for our HPDEs ( . . . .

See you out there!
-Scott
Thanks Scott, I am in the Denver area. It's been a couple of years, but have done a number of track events with RMRPCA at High Plains, and know Chris Macarak at OnSite - Onsite stored and help transport GT3 wheels & tires for me before I got ride of the car. Great service. Look forward to meeting you at an event. Best, Mike
 
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