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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK, folks: I finally did this, and as most say, it is very simple -- a 2 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.
There are definitely a couple of points to consider so that disassembly/disconnection/reassembly goes as smoothly as possible -- but armed with this info, this can be done by anyone in 2-3 minutes. Seriously!

You don't really even need any tools, but the following come in handy:
- A long-shafted, narrow-blade screwdriver
- A flashlight

EDIT: As an alternative solution, pulling a fuse apparently has the same effect as the procedure below. Refer to this pictorial at Post 64 deep in this thread by @garyinmotion for a guide to pulling the fuse.

The following pics are on a 2018 718 Cayman. Boxsters are slightly different, but the basic instructions still apply. Let's dive in:

Here's the left-hand corner of the rear hatch area. (Note the D-rings for context.) The two key elements of the area are identified:


A closer image of the two elements: the semi-rigid panel and the carpet seam. Find the indention noted on this image:


Place your fingers behind the indention and firmly pull on the panel horizontally toward the centerline of the car (to the right). The panel should pop right off:


Here's a shot of the business side of the panel, with mounting points noted. A note: The guide 'spikes' have conical covers that help keep the panel aligned and prevent squeaking. DO NOT LOSE THESE. If you pull the panel and you see a spike like the one on the left of the image, look for the conical piece that covers it on the floor of the hatch area. It'll be around. :)


Now the area where the Soundaktor module lives is exposed. Find the carpet seam pictured, pull back on the corner indicated ... :


... and poof! There she is!:


To disconnect the plug, use your finger (or the recommended screwdriver) to apply pressure to the gray plug latch as described in the photo:


The plug can be slipped downward and off the Soundaktor module based on the image. This one's ready to come off:


Most of you can simply leave the plug hanging like this:


But I don't like stuff flopping around like that, so I affixed industrial-strength Velcro to both the plug and the module ...:


... and mounted the plug like this onto the module itself:


Now just tuck the corner of the carpet back in place and reinstall the removable panel (This shot shows how the metal clip and guide spikes align with their respective holes):


To install the panel, align the clips/spikes with the holes, then press/push firmly in the opposite direction of how it was removed. After that, you're done!
 

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Just to add some Boxster-specific info to Viffermike's:

1 The Soundaktor is in the same place: on the left rear quarter panel, inside the boot/trunk, by the floor of the boot.

2 It's much simpler to open the lining of the boot than the Cayman--there are no clips. It is a fitted plastic cover with the usual carpet-like coating.

3 The "hand grip" is in the upper/left/rear corner of the boot opening. Just give a good pull and it all releases from the boot latch to the wheel well.

4 Proceed as above.

5 Re-installation: Push the cover firmly back into place ensuring it goes behind the rubber retaining seals on the top edge.
 

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Thanks for the post. Should be a help to many members. On a semi-related note: I disconnected the Soundaktor. My wife noticed right away, problem it that she didn't like the new sound. :confused:

Oh well. Reconnecting it is as easy as disconnecting it.
 

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I have wanted to do this but am suddenly concerned that it has many wires. If it's just essentially a glorified speaker, why would it need 6+ wires? Maybe that's a control module and the speaker it elsewhere so you have 2 for power, 2 for output to the speaker but what about the other 2?
 

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I have wanted to do this but am suddenly concerned that it has many wires. If it's just essentially a glorified speaker, why would it need 6+ wires? Maybe that's a control module and the speaker it elsewhere so you have 2 for power, 2 for output to the speaker but what about the other 2?
You have to divide the wires with 2 since the aktor is connected in serial.
½ of the wires is going in to the aktor the second half is out.
So on the input there would be atleast signal from the ECU, Power
And on the output the would be signal to the tactile unit, mayby power to the tactile unit
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
You have to divide the wires with 2 since the aktor is connected in serial.
½ of the wires is going in to the aktor the second half is out.
So on the input there would be atleast signal from the ECU, Power
And on the output the would be signal to the tactile unit, mayby power to the tactile unit
Yep. Look at the image where I show where I affixed the Velcro. There are six wires:
- 1 (black) is power
- 1 (brown solid) is ground
- 2 (red/green) are send wires: one to acoustic module on the firewall, the other to car's computer (probably not to the ECU directly)
- 2 (orange solid & orange/black) are receive wires: one from acoustic module, the other from the car's computer.

By the way: I can unequivocally say that there is DEFINITELY Soundaktor output in 'Normal' drive mode. It is subtle, but it is there. I have really good ears, and there is a tenor missing from directly behind, even in that drive mode. Disconnecting the Soundaktor has essentially made the 'center' of the engine sound move backward about three feet or so -- where it should be -- and also made the cabin feel more calm and clinical.

HIGHLY recommended.
 

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Thanks for all the excellent writeup and visuals on this!

This is also the first part of the procedure to access the intake air filter, according to Porsche Club of Great Britain [Forum Home > All Forums > Porsche Cars (Registers) > Boxster, Cayman > Cayman > Cayman Technical Articles > 718 Cayman S PDK Air Filter replacement]

I've got a K&N filter on the way and plan to deactivate the Soundaktor at that time as well.

Thanks again Viffermike.
 

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Yep. Look at the image where I show where I affixed the Velcro. There are six wires:
- 1 (black) is power
- 1 (brown solid) is ground
- 2 (red/green) are send wires: one to acoustic module on the firewall, the other to car's computer (probably not to the ECU directly)
- 2 (orange solid & orange/black) are receive wires: one from acoustic module, the other from the car's computer.

By the way: I can unequivocally say that there is DEFINITELY Soundaktor output in 'Normal' drive mode. It is subtle, but it is there. I have really good ears, and there is a tenor missing from directly behind, even in that drive mode. Disconnecting the Soundaktor has essentially made the 'center' of the engine sound move backward about three feet or so -- where it should be -- and also made the cabin feel more calm and clinical.

HIGHLY recommended.



I have been saying that all along and i also have been close to drag out all my acoustic measuring devices just to prove the point.
Unfortunately its not that easy to measure a thing like that while driving since you have to deal with road noise and wind noise, those things are not a constant factor.


As V-Mike says you need the ears for it cause its subtle it also causes vibration at certain rpm,s that disappears when its disconnected :)




Good job V-Mike!
 

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D a m n it Viffer! Are you gonna actually make me do this??? Now, with your detailed and well illustrated photos, I feel compelled to do something about a problem a didn't know I had... Let me explain: So I've been around this forum for a bit, and I of course know about the Soundaktor, but I like the way my car sounds, and now with just over 6k on the odometer, the car sounds noticeably better (more distinct, more growl, less metallic, and a bit louder). So why mess with that? I'll tell you why; because Viffer won't leave well enough alone. So now I'm forced to get off my lazy @ss and do something about it (who am I kidding, I work for Porsche and will likely ask one of the techs to do it for me). But I digress. I still blame Viffer for getting me off of my project car (our family car. I bought it for my wife, but I can't stop myself from modifying it) and forcing my hand to play around with the Porsche instead.

Off topic: I traded in my wife's 2012 X5 for a 2015 BMW 335i M-sport with adaptive suspension, maybe 3 months ago. Since I've bought the BMW (which I drive half the week to keep the miles down on the Cayman), I've been modifying one part after another. It's been fun, and the car is legitimately quick now.
Here's the interesting part; I have yet to modify a single part of the 2018 718 Cayman! Is it because Porsche made a near perfect car from the factory? Is it because I really like the balance of the car as is, and don't want to mess with Porsches design? I don't know, but before getting the 718, I had several plans to modify the car (I have modified several cars and it's something I thoroughly enjoy throwing money away on), but after owning the Cayman, I haven't felt the need to mess with anything. I think that's a HUGE compliment to Porsche and to the way I feel about this car...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Now that's how one completes a step by step instructional post. Much thanks!
Much appreciated (everyone else, too). The heavens know I've done enough of these, both on forums and in my professional life ... >:D

D a m n it Viffer! Are you gonna actually make me do this??? ...

Since I've bought the BMW (which I drive half the week to keep the miles down on the Cayman), I've been modifying one part after another. It's been fun, and the car is legitimately quick now.
Here's the interesting part; I have yet to modify a single part of the 2018 718 Cayman! I think that's a HUGE compliment to Porsche and to the way I feel about this car...
The great thing about this is it's reversible -- and easily so. As I've mentioned on other posts, other cars -- I'm looking at you, BMW and Mercedes -- make Soundaktor removal much more difficult if not impossible.

I had a 228i M Sport before my 718, and I did considerably more customization to that car than I ever will to the 718. It truly needs absolutely nothing performance-wise, and darn near nothing comfort- or convenience-wise. Pretty much anything worth doing is either for looks or for weight savings (wheels, carbon fiber)!
 

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I am hoping the MY19 CS also doesn't come with it, just like Wine O's BS. I will know soon. ;)
Please keep me posted. I reached out to my SA and asked him to check w/ the home office to see if it has been removed from the MY19 cars, or just moved to a different location. No idea if he'll get any info (or if he'll even try). I'll let you know if I ever hear back though.
 

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So I happened to attend a PCA meeting in Arizona tonight, and I was there with the Service Manager (he was a Porsche Master Tech and has been with the brand for 25 years) for Porsche Chandler. While we were sitting down, eating some bratwurst together, a member walked up and mentioned that he recently read about this Soundaktor and would like to try disconnecting it from his 718. The Service Manager asked if I had disconnected my own. After explaining I had yet to do so, he told me to bring my 718 to work the following day (we work together) so he can see the system for himself and disconnect it for me, if I so wish. I of course took him up on his offer. I will keep you posted, as to give you my personal impressions for before and after.
 
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[QUOTE Disconnecting the Soundaktor has essentially made the 'center' of the engine sound move backward about three feet or so -- where it should be -- and also made the cabin feel more calm and clinical.

HIGHLY recommended.[/QUOTE]

Disconnected mine today and I like it for two reasons - just do not like the idea of artificial engine sounds put into the cockpit, and it just sounds good in non-sport mode. Hard to put into words, it just sounds better to me.

Also, when I uncovered mine I thought in the words of Viffermike, "poof, there she is". :D
 
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