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I've searched and only finding old threads with pictures that are no longer available. I need help in how I'm going to install.

  • Using a blend mount (that really doesn't matter)
  • Valentine 1
  • Vehicle has a manual mirror (no auto dimming)
  • looking to pull power from the overhead
I'm not a radar detector fan, but with my recent citation i'm going for all the protection I can get. I'd prefer to install using the over head for power vs. running a wire down to the fuse panel. What kind of help can you all provide?
 

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I don't know the options but I agree with you. I'd rather a ticket than a wiring hanging down. Personally, I'm interested in installing a dashcam and radar detector
 

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I used a mirror tap and pushed the pins into the area in the lower right bottom corner of this picture, the area where the wire with the grey shrink wrap attaches. This is where the power for the removed section attaches. I believe the purple one is hot and the brown is ground, doing it from memory. Do you have a voltage meter?

28518
 

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I used the blue connection on the right for mine. The brown is obviously the ground and I believe the power was a red combined with a stripe. Definitely use the meter and I found an old credit card worked the best for removing the cover. Also, that wire that plugs into the lights, etc. only goes in one way so unplug it. I'll try to check later.
 

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Just looked and it looks like brown is negative and purple and gold is positive? It looked like only those two wires to me. In a post elsewhere someone said red and black or red and white, but I didn’t see that.
 

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I'm sorry, still not picking up what's being put down. I've marked up a pic, if it's wrong I'll edit the pic till we've come to a confirmed tap point. Then hopefully the pic will remain for others to use.

DO NOT USE THIS DIAGRAM UNTIL WE'VE CONFIRMED THE PROPER TAP POINTS!
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Just back from a 2-hour run in the twisties. Lots of fun, but I think my wiring has come loose. The dash cam was about out of juice so no video today. I think my wiring looks different from above. I'm thinking I'm going to move mine to the little connector for the inside lights as @antennahead suggests. I'll have to be more careful taking it apart, but the access will be easier to the wires.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Just back from a 2-hour run in the twisties. Lots of fun, but I think my wiring has come loose. The dash cam was about out of juice so no video today. I think my wiring looks different from above. I'm thinking I'm going to move mine to the little connector for the inside lights as @antennahead suggests. I'll have to be more careful taking it apart, but the access will be easier to the wires.
So those will be powered at all times? just for clarification.
 

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V1 arrived today... I feel like a traitor getting a Radar Detector. I've always boasted how they were a waste of money and if you're always aware of your surroundings you'll not get caught! Well Reserver Officer Barny Fife in Huntington Co. is laughing his @ss off at that thought right now :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I decided to just run the wire to the fuse panel. Now I need to pick up a fuse add a circuit tap from auto zone. Anyone have a diagram for the fuse panel? I've googled the h3ll out of it and keep coming up blank.
 

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28521

So, here is a picture of my overhead box which is much simpler than higher above. Interesting points, in the blue connector, the middle wire is black on the left and brown on the right. We know brown is the usual ground color on the car. My pins were stuck in the brown and purple wires on the right side, but I couldn't get them to stick well but they worked when I wiretied the 12v to 5 v converter to wires on the right side.

So I thought I'd try the pigtail for the cover with the lights, etc. Wire colors are purple, black and red/black like the left side of the blue connector. I metered the purple wire using the black as ground and it read 11.6 volts. So I stuck my pins in the wired side of that connector, black to black and red to purple AND the converter doesn't work. So I drag my 12v to 5v converter with its pins up to my workbench and test it with my USB tester and the converter is working fine. I'm no electrician and don't claim to be, but that seems weird because it didn't work connected to the wires in the car. Back at the car I pin the pigtail connector above and plug the USB side of the converter into the camera and the camera is not getting any juice. So to test that electricity is getting through, I plug the pigtail back into the cover and the lights don't work. So I test the pigtail once again with the converter pinned in and without and both show 11.6 v coming through the pigtail. So this is too weird for me so I bail. Status: Converter not connected to anything and plate plugged back into the pigtail and reinstalled. Nothing is now working in the box at all. The lights don't light and the proximity alarms don't shut off when the button is pushed.
 

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That doesn't make sense if all is back to OEM. That sort of thing happens to me too often. Try something, mess it up, and pay way more than my original effort to have it fixed by someone else. Keep telling myself I'll stop spending money "learning" but that hasn't happened yet. Hope all works out for you.
 

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That doesn't make sense if all is back to OEM. That sort of thing happens to me too often. Try something, mess it up, and pay way more than my original effort to have it fixed by someone else. Keep telling myself I'll stop spending money "learning" but that hasn't happened yet. Hope all works out for you.
LOL.. I thought I was the only one. Usually a simply project turns into an expensive lesson.
_

Not having confidence in the over head sources, I ran the V1 wire to the passenger side fuse block. Used the supplied V1 hardwire connection in conjunction with a add a circuit fuse tap.

Took the time to solder fuse tap to the V1 hardwire assembly and sealed with heat shrink for added "Did it right" bragging rights. There are plenty of existing ground sources by the fuse block and then you simply plug the fuse tap into the proper fuse block receptacle (for me it was Row-D Column-6). Total time maybe 20 minutes and overall I would say this method is beginner/zero experience level of difficulty. Zero wire visibility and confidence that it's properly connected with ZERO modification to the vehicle!

Fuse Tap used
28522
 

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View attachment 28521
So, here is a picture of my overhead box which is much simpler than higher above. Interesting points, in the blue connector, the middle wire is black on the left and brown on the right. We know brown is the usual ground color on the car. My pins were stuck in the brown and purple wires on the right side, but I couldn't get them to stick well but they worked when I wiretied the 12v to 5 v converter to wires on the right side.

So I thought I'd try the pigtail for the cover with the lights, etc. Wire colors are purple, black and red/black like the left side of the blue connector. I metered the purple wire using the black as ground and it read 11.6 volts. So I stuck my pins in the wired side of that connector, black to black and red to purple AND the converter doesn't work. So I drag my 12v to 5v converter with its pins up to my workbench and test it with my USB tester and the converter is working fine. I'm no electrician and don't claim to be, but that seems weird because it didn't work connected to the wires in the car. Back at the car I pin the pigtail connector above and plug the USB side of the converter into the camera and the camera is not getting any juice. So to test that electricity is getting through, I plug the pigtail back into the cover and the lights don't work. So I test the pigtail once again with the converter pinned in and without and both show 11.6 v coming through the pigtail. So this is too weird for me so I bail. Status: Converter not connected to anything and plate plugged back into the pigtail and reinstalled. Nothing is now working in the box at all. The lights don't light and the proximity alarms don't shut off when the button is pushed.
Make sure the connections inside the roof section are still well connected. The wire you removed from the light assembly may have lost power due to a loose connection in the roof are where the power routes to the cable in question. Make sure all those light blue in color connectors are pushed in all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
View attachment 28521
So, here is a picture of my overhead box which is much simpler than higher above. Interesting points, in the blue connector, the middle wire is black on the left and brown on the right. We know brown is the usual ground color on the car. My pins were stuck in the brown and purple wires on the right side, but I couldn't get them to stick well but they worked when I wiretied the 12v to 5 v converter to wires on the right side.

So I thought I'd try the pigtail for the cover with the lights, etc. Wire colors are purple, black and red/black like the left side of the blue connector. I metered the purple wire using the black as ground and it read 11.6 volts. So I stuck my pins in the wired side of that connector, black to black and red to purple AND the converter doesn't work. So I drag my 12v to 5v converter with its pins up to my workbench and test it with my USB tester and the converter is working fine. I'm no electrician and don't claim to be, but that seems weird because it didn't work connected to the wires in the car. Back at the car I pin the pigtail connector above and plug the USB side of the converter into the camera and the camera is not getting any juice. So to test that electricity is getting through, I plug the pigtail back into the cover and the lights don't work. So I test the pigtail once again with the converter pinned in and without and both show 11.6 v coming through the pigtail. So this is too weird for me so I bail. Status: Converter not connected to anything and plate plugged back into the pigtail and reinstalled. Nothing is now working in the box at all. The lights don't light and the proximity alarms don't shut off when the button is pushed.
Make sure the connections inside the roof section are still well connected. The wire you removed from the light assembly may have lost power due to a loose connection in the roof are where the power routes to the cable in question. Make sure all those light blue in color connectors are pushed in all the way.
This would have stressed me out!

Friend of mine did the mirror tap and it keeps coming out. I'm worried he's going to end up with a short in a 350K car
 

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Make sure the connections inside the roof section are still well connected. The wire you removed from the light assembly may have lost power due to a loose connection in the roof are where the power routes to the cable in question. Make sure all those light blue in color connectors are pushed in all the way.
Yes, I was full of hope this was the case, so I checked this morning and alas, no joy. Still dead as a dodo. So I guess I get to find out how much that costs. I wonder if I should just purchase the part and install it myself, or if I should let them check it out in case the problem is more extensive? I'll probably talk to the service manager (assuming a built-in bias) and see what his rationale would be.
 

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Yes, I was full of hope this was the case, so I checked this morning and alas, no joy. Still dead as a dodo. So I guess I get to find out how much that costs. I wonder if I should just purchase the part and install it myself, or if I should let them check it out in case the problem is more extensive? I'll probably talk to the service manager (assuming a built-in bias) and see what his rationale would be.
Assuming everything is back to it's original place and you didn't inadvertently sever a factory-made connection, have you confirmed the fuse on that circuit didn't blow at some point while you were making your modifications?
 

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Assuming everything is back to it's original place and you didn't inadvertently sever a factory-made connection, have you confirmed the fuse on that circuit didn't blow at some point while you were making your modifications?
That's a good point. If you were poking around with a meter trying to determine hot and ground, or inadvertently pushed your hot and ground pins for the device in the wrong places, you may have blown a fuse.
 
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