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Urgent Advice Needed - Cross Threaded Spark Plug

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1.7K views 31 replies 15 participants last post by  Cossie92  
#1 ·
Hello. Looking for some advice - 2019 718 base. I am replacing the plugs for the first time in my ownership (25k miles). When removing all the plugs there was a fairly amount of resistance backing out the plugs. When putting in the new plugs (drivers side) there was resistance but got it in by wiggling the extension around, backing out, then threading forward. Torqued to 18 foot pounds.

Put the coils back on and started the car. Worst-case scenario, it was running rough and threw a check engine light.

I removed/re-seated the coils, restarted the car, same issue. I gently backed out the plugs and used a bore scope to look at the threads and examined the plugs to try and see if either/both were cross-threaded.

Below are pics of the new spark plugs (after being in then taken out) and pics from the bore scope.

My immeadiate next step is to gently try a thread chase then if it doesnt resolve the issue it's off to a shop to have a new new sleeve put in.

Help and suggestions needed! Thank you in advance.
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#4 ·
You are absolutely correct, the electrode is bent and completely closed. How could that happen?
 
#7 ·
I can't say I inspected the plugs before they went in. I put a bore scope in and looked at the top of the pistons, no evidence of any contact with the plug. The plugs are the right ones and exactly match the ones that came out (both in model # and length). Can't imagine you could over-thread a plug to the point a piston comes in contact (unless they are not the right length).

I am going to gently chase the threads and re-install the old plugs (which are in very good shape), then cross every part of my body and hope it runs well and no CEL. Will update here once I do so for future readers. If it does not run right it will go onto a flatbed to a shop.
 
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#8 ·
I can't say I inspected the plugs before they went in. I put a bore scope in and looked at the top of the pistons, no evidence of any contact with the plug. The plugs are the right ones and exactly match the ones that came out (both in model # and length). Can't imagine you could over-thread a plug to the point a piston comes in contact (unless they are not the right length).

I am going to gently chase the threads and re-install the old plugs (which are in very good shape), then cross every part of my body and hope it runs well and no CEL. Will update here once I do so for future readers. If it does not run right it will go onto a flatbed to a shop.
My guess is that the plugs were damaged upon receipt. I've hard a few plugs over the years that had been dropped prior to delivery and came to me out of spec. I've even had plugs shipped to me along with other parts and every plug was out of its box and bouncing around loose in the box. It would be nice if the plugs were shrink wrapped upon boxing at the factory but that would add a few pennies to their cost and lessen the profit margin.
 
#10 ·
Indeed, ordered several M12 1.25 thread chasers to see which one I feel is best. Very difficult due to the depth and small diameter of the plug receptacle.
 
#11 ·
Quick update and some good news. It took me quite a while to put the plugs back in going slow and backing out then in many times. I had to use a little PBlaster on the plug threads to get one in cleanly without significant resistance (will clean out the threads when I receive the chasers I ordered). Put the coils back on and started her up. Running like it should. Still have a check engine light on, does anyone know if this needs cleared or if it would go away if there is no issue?
 
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#12 ·
In the future to prevent galling of the threads, when removing if any resistance is felt simply reverse direction a few times while removing instead of forcing it in one direction. This allows any debris to be cleared free instead of piling up and causing galling. Also always inspect plugs thoroughly and check gap before installing and compare the length of nose and electrodes beside the original plugs. A hint of anti-seize wouldn't hurt either upon installing once you get the threads chased and cleaned up. Hopefully no metal flecks are in the cylinder.
 
#14 ·
Thankfully all is well. Use my iCarsoft code reader to read then clear codes. After running it no CEL and runs as good as new (maybe a bit quicker with the new APR coils. Thanks for the input.
 
#20 ·
I wouldn't even consider using that plug. New ones on the way from FCP Euro.
 
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#22 ·
FWIW, jury rig some 1/4in (6mm?) tube to your favorite vacuum device to extract debris...metallic chips in a cylinder risk scoring the wall.
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Plus whenever you have issue like that, I recommend to use vacuum cleaner on the open spark plug holes to suck out potential leftover debris from the cross thread before you put the new sparks in.